Tag Archives: electrician

Barndominium Electrical Outlets

Barndominium Electrical Outlets

No matter how many electrical outlets I plan for, it feels as if there were never enough where I really need them. There are some basic minimum rules, however when planning your barndominium or shop/house – think about places you might need more than these requirements. It is much easier to have an extra few outlets installed at construction time, than have to add them in later.

An electrical code is an official set of guidelines specifying how various electrical system aspects should be installed. Most local residential electrical codes are based upon NEC— National Electrical Code—a model code providing guidelines so local communities can model their own residential codes.

Among other wiring installation details, electrical code specifies how electrical outlets should be spaced and what outlet types use in general living areas, in bathrooms, in kitchens, and in other locations. Far from being arbitrary, electrical code as it relates to outlets is imminently practical.

Outlet spacing is a prime example. In kitchens, countertop outlets should be no farther than 48 inches away from each other. This spacing is based on average electrical cord lengths found on most small kitchen appliances. Its intent is to prevent homeowners from stretching cords too far and creating hazards.

Code requirements for residential wall outlets may differ from one community to another since model building codes can be adopted and adapted as a community sees fit. Most, but not all, follow NEC. Be sure to check with your local building permit department for particulars.

Outlet Spacing in General Living Areas

For code purposes, “general areas” are defined as rooms such as living rooms, family rooms, bedrooms, and hallways. In these spaces, wall outlets should be spaced no farther than 12 feet apart. This spacing is chosen so a lamp, computer, television or other appliance will never be more than six feet away from an electrical outlet.

Spacing outlets more frequently than every 12 feet is allowed, but not required by code. If a space receives heavy use, such as with people charging phones or plugging in laptops, shorter spacing between outlets may be a good idea.

One exception to this rule specifying 12-foot outlet placement: If a wall is less than 24 inches wide, an outlet is not required. Again, you are allowed to place an outlet in this space if you so choose.

Hallways more than 10 feet long must have at least one electrical outlet, preferably at mid-point.

Outlet Spacing in Bathrooms

On bathroom walls, there must be a receptacle at least within three feet of the sink basin’s outside edge. Generally, it is desirable to install this outlet above the countertop. Code’s three-foot designation provides leeway in case this is not possible or practical.

Outlet Spacing in Kitchens

In kitchens, electrical outlets should be placed no farther than 48 inches apart, so no point on the countertop is more than 24 inches away from a receptacle. Any countertop 12 inches wider or more should have an outlet on the wall behind the countertop. Outlets should not be positioned higher than 20 inches above countertops, with certain exceptions for physically disabled persons and for islands or peninsulas where this height rule cannot be met.

Tamper-Resistant Receptacles

As an additional safety measure, most municipalities now require tamper-resistant outlets for general home areas. These outlets are identified by recessed letters “TR” on the outlet face. In tamper-resistant outlets, a spring-loaded gate within the outlet prevents young children from pushing objects such as knives into outlet slots.

Tamper-resistant outlet receptacles are usually are not required if located 66 inches or more above floor, behind large difficult to move appliances (such as a refrigerator), or part of a light fixture or appliance

GFCI Protection Requirements

NEC code requires outlet receptacles have GFCI (ground-fault interrupter) protection in certain home areas, including:  over kitchen countertops, powering dishwashers, in bathrooms, laundry areas, basements, garages and other accessible outdoor locations, near swimming pools, spas, and other water features

GFCI protection seeks to lower shock risk when ground faults occur, through use of special GFCI circuit breakers providing protection to an entire circuit; or with GFCI receptacles, specially designed to provide GFCI protection to a specific outlet, or to a receptacle as well as “down-stream” receptacles on the same circuit.

AFCI Protection Requirements

NEC also requires a different kind of protection for all 15-amp and 20-amp receptacles in general living spaces. This requirement calls for AFCI (arc-fault circuit-interrupter) protection for these receptacles. AFCI protection seeks to sense and shut down a circuit when an arc fault—minor sparking between wires or wire connections—occurs. AFCI protection reduces fire chance due to this sparking.

AFCI protection can also be provided through special circuit breakers protecting all receptacles and devices along a circuit; or through special AFCI outlet receptacles offering protection to one location only. Standard practice is to install AFCI circuit breakers to protect an entire circuit, but individual AFCI receptacles can be installed where circuit breaker installation is not practical.

When in doubt, consult with a licensed electrician or your electrical inspector.

Working With Your Barndominium Subs

Working With Your Barndominium Subs

If you get along well with everyone at all times, you may not need to read this article. But if you occasionally run into conflicts, read them carefully. Sometimes the fault may be yours.

At this point you’ve selected your subcontractors. You’ve checked them out and are satisfied they are honest, trustworthy, and experts in their fields.

Now let them work. Don’t try to supervise every blow of a hammer or placement of every stud. These guys are professionals and they know more about their trades than you do, and probably, if they came to you well recommended, they take pride in their work. Let them do it.

And, more emphatically, don’t try to tell your subcontractors their jobs just because you have read my articles. You’ll get good work out of your subs if they understand you realize they know their jobs, and you’re depending on them for good advice and quality work.

When a subcontractor’s work is completed, when work looks good, and when relevant inspections have checked out, make sure to pay contracted amounts promptly. A hearty thank you is also in order. Subcontractors who get treated right throughout your job and afterward will do a better job for you, and they’ll come back when you build your next barndominium. And chances are you will build another.

Paying Your Subcontractors

When you sign your contract with your erector, you will agree on a contract price for work as outlined. It is usually based on X number of dollars per square foot of heated area and X number of dollars per square foot of under roof, such as garages, porches, etc. Prices will vary with geographic area and job complexity.

Never pay a subcontractor for work not done, for incomplete work, or for an unsatisfactory job. Never pay a Subcontractor in advance. Paying in advance destroys incentive to get your job done ahead of other jobs. Paying in advance could result in a financial loss to you if a subcontractor is incapacitated in some manner. I don’t know anybody who gets paid in advance in any job field. If a subcontractor says he (or she) needs money to get materials, etc., find somebody else, or arrange to order and pay for materials yourself.

Work out a schedule of payment with your subs. Some subs may require draws, or partial payments, as work progresses. This should be discussed before work begins. Don’t be shy about it. They are accustomed to discussing such matters. It is all right to pay a draw, but never pay for more than work already done. For work expected to be completed within seven to 10 days of beginning, draws are typically unnecessary.

Plumbers and electricians usually get 60 percent of their total contract price when their rough-in work has been completed and inspected. Heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning rough-in payments depend on installation of equipment such as furnaces. If payment is just for duct work and some low-voltage wiring, 20 percent of total should suffice. If a furnace had to be installed during rough-in, add another 10 percent. Work out payment arrangements with subs before they start. Subcontractors almost always would like to get more money up front than they have in the job. Be sure there is enough money left in the total bid to complete the job if one of your subs goes broke while you are still building. It has happened. You don’t want to be stuck paying more to complete his job. You’ll be covered better if you don’t overpay him on his rough-in.

I seem to be saying the only way you’ll get your subcontractors to complete your job is if you owe them money. In many cases this is true, but in others it is only partially true. Some subcontractors would finish regardless. Often an issue is subcontractors have more than one job going at one time, and your main objective is to get your job finished before one is started after yours.

Make sure building inspections by your county or city are completed and work is approved before you make any payments at any phase of construction, other than partial draws. This is your assurance your job has been done, and done properly.

Barndominium Subcontractor Bids

Barndominium construction bids are very important. Be diligent! For each contracting or subcontracting job for your barndominium, get bids or estimates from at least three contractors. Make sure bids are for similar work and be sure job specifications are identical. 

Never accept a bid “by the hour.” It doesn’t work. Remember Murphy’s Law; “If you want to see how long a job can take, pay someone by the hour.” You may pay a little more for a fixed price bid, but it’s worth it for peace of mind.

For example, if an excavator quotes $X per hour per man plus $X per hour per piece of equipment, insist on a firm total. If he (or she) won’t offer one, move on to the next excavator on your list.

People and companies you will be contacting know how to give estimates based on plans and are used to being asked for bids. Don’t worry, this is part of their job, whether you eventually hire them or not.

I take my building plans, drop them off or email them to a subcontractor or supplier, and say, “Give me a price on XXX. If you see anything else on these plans you can provide, give me a price on them too.” You might be pleasantly surprised – excavators often also do septic systems, driveways, backfill, rough and final grading, and a few others. They also usually know others who do foundations, concrete slabs, flat work, etc.

Your suppliers and subcontractors will determine the nearly exact number of items and square footage of materials needed based on your house plans. This is called a “take off.”

NOTE: GET ALL BIDS & ESTIMATES IN WRITING!

What is the difference between a bid and an estimate? A bid is a firm price to do a given scope of work, an estimate is “about” what it will cost. Obviously bids are what you are after.

Here is what you should expect when getting bids for various jobs.

Plumbing:

Plumbing bids should include all plumbing fixtures right down to toilet seats. They will not include accessories such as toilet paper holders. If colored fixtures are to be used, specify color and brand. Plumbing showrooms are your best bet for selection of these fixtures. Magazines and brochures don’t tell you enough and often don’t give prices. Most plumbing showrooms won’t tell you wholesale prices, but you’ll be paying list anyway, as plumbers make a profit on each fixture and it’s included in their bid. Don’t make an issue of this. This small profit in fixtures is one of a plumber’s sources of income and they earn it.

HVAC:

Your heat and air-conditioning contract should include vents (generally fan-powered) for  bathrooms, clothes dryer, stove, and range hood.

Electrical:

Electrical bids should include all switches, wiring, receptacles, circuit breakers and their respective panel boxes, a temporary service box and installation, saw service, wiring of all built-in appliances, and installation of ovens and ranges, furnaces, heaters, and air conditioners. Electricians in many areas do rough wiring for phones and the Internet (if you are not wireless).

Utilities must be connected. Exactly who is responsible for running water lines, sewer lines, and electrical hookups will vary with each subcontractor involved. Get responsibility pinned down when you are hiring subs, then follow through to be sure it is done properly.

All subcontractors should be responsible for obtaining needed building department inspections, but make sure they do (before paying them) or you will have to do it yourself. Lack of inspections can cause delays. Proceeding without getting inspections can be troublesome and expensive.

Subcontractors for Your Barndominium

Welcome – you are maybe here because you have followed my biggest money saving tip in building a new barndominium, you are acting as your own General Contractor. If you are not yet convinced, please take a brief pause to jump back to: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/02/does-my-barndominium-need-a-turn-key-general-contractor/.

There are those who have time and patience (or skills) to learn how to DIY everything. Most do not fit into this category and are going to need some skilled subcontractors to do more (or all) challenging tasks.

A subcontractor is an individual contractor or a contracting firm who contracts with a General Contractor (now you as an owner builder), to perform part or all of a specific barndominium building job. In construction industry jargon, subcontractors are also called subs.

With you in control as general contractor,  you will build your new home by subcontracting with others for specific jobs.

You will pay for your project by setting a predetermined contract amount with each subcontractor.

You will have no hourly wage employees working for you, meaning you will avoid mountains of governmental red tape and taxes concerning employees.

Your contractors and subcontractors are not considered to be employees.

Some subcontractors, or contractors, need to be licensed for their trade. Check with your local Building Department to confirm these requirements. For those needing to be licensed, be sure to ask to see a copy of their contractor’s registration and verify it!

Below is a list of barndominium contractors, subcontractors and professional people you probably will be contracting with, listed generally in order of need (along with links to relevant articles, where appropriate).

Real estate agent (for land search) https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/08/a-place-for-a-post-frame-barndominium/

Real estate attorney (many states require them for property closing)

Loan officer at banks, credit unions, or mortgage lenders https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/06/things-to-complete-before-going-to-a-barndominium-lender/

Barndominium designer http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/post-frame-floor-plans/?fbclid=IwAR2ta5IFSxrltv5eAyBVmg-JUsoPfy9hbWtP86svOTPfG1q5pGmfhA7yd5Q

Structural engineer (every Hansen Pole Building comes complete with fully engineered structural plans, so this aspect is covered for you)

Surveyor https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/02/pole-building-20/

Well driller (if no public water)

Grading and Excavation Contractor

Septic system installer

Soil Treatment Firm if in termite country https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/pre-construction-termite-treatment/

Your Hansen Pole Building kit (www.HansenPoleBuildings.com 1.866.200.9657)

Hansen Buildings Construction ManualBuilding Erector (Hansen Pole Buildings are designed for average physically capable persons who can and will read instructions to successfully construct their own beautiful buildings and many of our clients do DIY). Our buildings come with full 24” x 36” blueprints detailing location and attachment of every piece, a 500 page fully illustrated step-by-step installation manual, as well as unlimited technical support from people who have actually built buildings. For those without time or inclination, we have an extensive independent Builder Network covering the contiguous 48 states. We can assist you in getting erection labor pricing as well as introducing you to potential builders

Concrete contractor to pour concrete slab or concrete floors, as well as drives, walks and approaches.

Electrician

Plumber

HVAC (heating, ventilation and air-conditioning)

Insulation installer

Drywall contractor

Painter

Finish carpenter (Installs kitchen and other built-in cabinets and trim around doors and windows)

Flooring, carpet, and countertop contractor

Tile contractor

Cleaning crew contractor

Landscape contractor

Cross off from this list all tasks and trades you are willing and able to do yourself. You are now journeying a step closer to your barndominium General Contracting success!