Tag Archives: entry door installation

Snow Inside of Entry Door

Snow Inside of Entry Door

I recently received a message from my Facebook friend Joe, he writes:

“Hey buddy, I have tried to get some kind of help from my builder and they’ve been less than stellar. 80k later and when it snows, I get snow inside my building next to the man door. How do you think I night be able to fix it?”

Now I have had a plethora of clients ask me about a myriad of challenges over several decades. Usually it goes something like, “You won’t believe my problem, I am certain you have never had anything this bad”. I remind them – in a past life, I ran as many as 35 building crews, erecting buildings in six states. If something could be done wrong, chances are, they did it.

Here is one I had not run into previously, although it has a fix (as do most challenges).

This is an installation issue, caused in part by builder ordering a lumberyard ‘builder grade’ entry door with brick moulding attached.

Now steel clad post frame buildings should be maintenance free for decades. As one of few moving parts, it would have been prudent for builder to have ordered an insulated commercial steel entry door with steel jambs, factory finish painted. Most builders and providers are selling by price, rather than benefits, resulting in long term disappointments.

An entry door such as this, is likely to merely be primed white, not finish painted. Unless it is promptly painted, chances are good rust will start to bleed through primer in a matter of a few short years. Oftentimes these doors even come with a warning label affixed to remind of need for paint. Wood jambs also require frequent painting, to keep them from rotting. Jamb material is usually either Hemlock or Pine, neither being naturally resistant from decay. Further, wood jambs are an invitation for nefarious folks to kick doors in and pilfer valuables.

Without brick moulding, J Channel trim around door assembly could have overlapped onto jambs and with a bead of caulk applied between J Channel and jambs, been relatively weather tight. At this juncture, where J Channels are butted up to brick moulding, best hope of minimizing infiltration here would be to use a can or cans of spray foam to try to seal from inside.

In my ideal dream world, an omnidirectional weather resistant barrier (WRB) would have been placed between framing and siding.

For extended reading on Weather Resistant Barriers: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/01/determining-the-most-effective-building-weather-resistant-barrier-part-1/ and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/01/determining-the-most-effective-building-weather-resistant-barrier-part-2/ and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/01/determining-the-most-effective-building-weather-resistant-barrier-part-3/

Now – on to real installation challenge solution. Remove steel panels around door. Place self-adhesive flashing tape (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/03/3m-all-weather-flashing-tape-8067/) up both sides (first) and across top, overlapping onto back face (against building) of J Channel around doors. Reinstall steel, placing a screw into girts up close to J Channel.

 

An Entry Door Installation Trick

I admit, when I first entered the post frame (pole) building business – I was clueless on a good day. My only “training” was picking the brain of an old time pole barn builder, George Evanovich. George was a nice enough guy, but it didn’t take me long to realize when it came to details – George was winging it!

series95evWhen it came to entry doors – George gave me bad information. He didn’t want the pressure preservative treated skirt board (aka splash plank) to be across entry door openings. Not knowing any better, I didn’t consider asking why, or (more appropriately) why not?

It didn’t take long for me to find out things work much better if the skirt board is run across any entry door openings.

Why?

Remember, in the event a nominal four inch thick concrete slab on grade floor is to be poured inside of the building, the bottom of the splash plank is the bottom of the slab. Just in case you have forgotten: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/02/where-is-the-top-of-the-concrete-slab/

So, doing it George’s way, the entry door would have been placed with the bottom of the door at grade. Let’s hope the doors all opened out and no one had any issues with there being a 3-1/2” lip of concrete directly inside of the door. Watch out for stubbed toes!

To do it right – the splash plank does get placed across the site of the future entry door. In the area between pressure preservative treated columns where the entry door will be placed, draw a horizontal line on the outside of the splash plank, 3-1/2 inches above the bottom (or grade). On the door side of each post, saw cut vertically down to this line, then cut across the line between the posts.

DO NOT THROW THIS PIECE AWAY!!

Instead, rotate the top of the cutoff 90 degrees into the building, so it lays flat between the posts and behind the splash plank. Nail this cutoff securely through the splash plank, and toenail into the columns at each side of the entry door.

Now, when the entry door is installed, if the concrete floor is not immediately placed, this cutoff will act as a stiffener to keep the bottom threshold of the entry door from being bent, or worse, broken!