Today’s Ask the Guru answers reader questions about sue of beams for an implement storage building, a question stumps the Guru so he asks readers for help, and if a post frame building could be built with a walk-out basement.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I want to build a Implement Storage 60’ x 24’ pole barn that has 10’ high sides and is open on in the front of the 60’ side. We would like to use 12’ spacing on the 6×6 posts. We were thinking of using 2×12’s for the beams on top for the trusses to bear on.. Can we just use all 12’ long beams or do we need to use 24’ beams to stagger the joints at the post? KERRY
DEAR KERRY: There are far more efficient ways than using beams between trusses. I would suggest – use glulaminated columns, they are going to be stronger, straighter, lighter and pressure preservative treated far better than 6×6 timbers. Place trusses directly aligned with sidewall columns (this will eliminate need for truss carriers – beams between columns). Use a single truss on each endwall, double trusses at interior columns. This method eliminates risky truss-to-beam-to-column connections and provides for a greater clear height when entering building on open sidewall.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: 4″ wall thimble for micro boiler to fit flush against exterior siding as the rib would prevent this from happening. The ribbing runs vertical on my building. Do you have options/idea for a workaround for this? DAVE in VIROQUA
DEAR DAVE: You have me stumped. While I do not have your answer, I will post this up on “Ask the Pole Barn Guru” and see if some of our tens of thousands of readers have a good recommendation.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a sloped property and house with a walk out basement. I need a shop and the land drops naturally. Instead of using fill dirt I’ve considered a walk out basement with a pole barn. I’d like to be able to drive cars over the basement. Is that possible? TINA in IDAHO CITY
DEAR TINA: This is absolutely possible. Where you are excavating into your hillside, we can provide a Permanent Wood Foundation, incorporating columns for upper level into it. Your upper level floor can either have interior columns, beams and joists, or (and my preference) engineered floor trusses. Although on stilts, rather than cut in, this post frame garage has an elevated floor: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2022/11/what-to-do-when-the-old-post-frame-garage-has-issues/
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hi Mike, getting ready to build a pole barn and I have some bituthene I’ve been saving. The bottom of the posts are treated but I was going to wrap them in the bituthene as well to protect. Obviously this could potentially trap moisture in the post as well creating more problems than it solves. As long as the posts are dry do you see a problem with wrapping them? Thanks! TRAVIS in ELIZABETH 
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you have an two story options? I’m looking for a two-story barn kit that is approximately 40×60. Thanks. KRISTIN in JENISON 
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good morning. I have a question about the project-11-1106. I now own this property and have two questions below.
DEAR AL: My first experience with Teton County was nearly 30 years ago – when, as a General Contractor, we built a post frame building for Driggs Plumbing. Fully engineered post frame buildings are 100% Code conforming structures and when designed appropriately for Risk Category II and a R-3 (residential) occupancy they make for excellent homes. I have read through Teton County’s Building Department information online and see no minimum footprint requirements for homes, however you would be best served to give a call to Teton County’s Planning and Zoning Department at 208.354.2593. 
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello. We are in the planning stages of designing our home and are thinking of building a 40×60, single slope home with a loft on the tall side. Have you ever designed anything like this? I am having a hard time figuring out what height walls I would need and what pitch roof in order to accommodate a loft. I am thinking that i would like 10’ ceilings and 8’ ceiling for the loft, but worried that being vaulted, I will lose usable room space fast. Please let me know if you can help. Thanks! NATE in BIXBY
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: How to tie a self-supporting lean-to onto my existing pole building? Ham Lake city inspector said my existing pole building footings don’t support the added weight of a lean-to and therefore need posts on the high side of the lean-to. Pole Building is 30×64. Lean-to is 19×64. Ham Lake inspector says you don’t need to tie the buildings together other than the lean-to roof tucked underneath the existing roof. The 9 posts on the high side lean-to will be 1′ away from the existing 9 post on the Pole Building. I want to tie these two posts together. I’m thinking of cutting a hole in the siding and nailing a 2×6 onto each post at the top somewhere. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks. KEITH in HAM LAKE
DEAR THOMAS: In most instances eave and ridge vents are inadequate alone to prevent condensation. Contractors who fail to include some sort of thermal break between roof framing and roof steel are doing a severe disservice, in my opinion. It is so easy to accomplish at time of construction with products such as a Reflective Radiant Barrier or Integral Condensation Control. There is not a good option for an underside of purlins vapor barrier, as it is nearly impossible to adequately seal it. Your only real solution, at this point, would be to use two inches of closed cell spray foam on underside of your roof steel.
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: 
DEAR POLE BARN GURU: 
DEAR MICHAEL: A post frame building’s beauty is it can have any type of roofing and/or siding desired. We have provided numerous buildings with James Hardie brand or other equivalent cement based sidings, so this would not be an issue. Unless there is some sort of prohibitive covenant, you might consider using steel siding on your home. It will be your most durable and cost effective design solution.
You are doing a structural change to your shop – this requires a building permit. You should be consulting with an engineer who can examine your as built structure and determine what needs to be done to safely install a loft. For a space such as this your minimum design loading would be for light storage. Light storage requires a design live load of 125 psf (pounds per square foot). There is a good possibility your building’s wall columns do not have adequate area to support this type of load. Building stud walls is also probably not an answer – as your concrete slab is probably not thick enough to carry a wall with these loads.
In order to have your greatest possible resale value, you should have any lofted space designed so as to be considered as habitable space. International Residential Code (IRC) 
More than one pole (post frame) building owner has an idea of adding a second floor inside their existing building. Or, they plan a new post frame building with an idea of a future second floor being incorporated.
