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Comfort for Northern Climate Intermittently Heated Shop

Comfort for Northern Climate Intermittently Heated Shop

Reader DAVID in WRENSHALL writes: “Hi There, I’m thinking about building a shop on my property. I’m in the research phase. I plan to heat the shop intermittently in the winter when i have projects to work on, but I probably won’t be in there long enough to justify heating the space all winter. My question is should I insulate under the slab? This will be a pole building, so my understanding is the slab can float independent of the foundation and doesn’t NEED to be insulated. I’m just wondering if I’d get any added comfort when I do have the shop heated. Or is that much mass just going to stay cold unless I’m heating it all the time? If insulation is a good idea, how would you recommend I go about it? Thanks!”

Next two paragraphs are paraphrased from Building Science Corporation’s Joe Lstiburek in BSI-059:

Do you really need to insulate vertically if you insulate slab edge and insulate under slab at perimeter? Yes and no. Yes in climate zones 4 and higher, no in climate zones 3 and lower. Is this based on a hygrothermal analysis? No. Is this based on an energy payback analysis? No. Is this based on minimizing your carbon “footprint”? No. Get serious. It is based on something real. We found in climate zones 4 and higher if you didn’t do it people felt uncomfortable. It is not a good idea to annoy your clients. Especially if they are old – remember you will get old too – sooner than you expect.

How far inboard should you insulate horizontally? We pick four feet. Yup, this typical rigid insulation sheet width and we go with it. Everywhere? Pretty much. Is there ever any reason to insulate entire slab besides perimeter? Yes, Grasshopper, whenever you have in-slab heating or whenever you have hot-humid summers like you have in Maine, Massachusetts, and Michigan. Those “M” states are a pain. Ground under a slab is still often cold in summer when it finally gets nice outside in “M” states and slab top can fall below outside air-vapor mixture dew temperature when folks are finally brave enough to open windows and doors.

In most instances, over properly compacted fill, 15 psi (pounds per square inch) EPS (expanded polystyrene) or XPS (extruded polystyrene) insulation has adequate compressive strength to support a five-yard dump truck on a nominal four-inch slab on grade.

To summarize – insulate vertically (attach to inside face of pressure preservative treated splash plank) from top of slab down two feet, then outward at 90 degrees for at least two feet (following HUD’s guide: https://www.huduser.gov/Publications/PDF/FPSFguide.pdf). Purpose of this is to prevent frost heave. For comfort, then place R-10 rigid insulation horizontally under slab in four feet closest to each exterior wall.

This entry was posted in Insulation, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Concrete, Footings, Building Interior, Pole Barn Heating, Barndominium and tagged pole barn heating, intermittent heating, insulated slab, insulated foundation. on October 22, 2024 by Rick Ochs.

Dual Heating And Cooling Solutions For Your Post Frame Barndominium

Dual Heating And Cooling Solutions For Your Post Frame Barndominium

Dual heating and cooling systems are a two-in-one solution and can keep your post frame barndominium cool in summer and warm in winter. It’s no secret energy prices are increasingly expensive, with U.S. cooling bills alone set to rise from $661 to $719 by September’s end, Yahoo Finance reports. So, whether you use your post frame building for living, working, or storage, it’s important to choose an energy-efficient heating and cooling system keeping your post frame building comfortable year-round at a sensible cost.

Packaged HVAC units

Packaged HVAC units combine all necessary heating and cooling components conveniently into one single cabinet sitting outside your post frame building. This is in contrast to split systems consisting of two separate heating and cooling units, one indoors and one outdoors. Above all else, packaged units are a great space saver, generally what you want for your post frame building. None of your heating and cooling equipment will take up any interior space inside, so you have more space for more important things.

Packaged systems are also energy efficient as all heating and cooling components (furnace, air conditioner, air handler, and condenser) are designed to work together optimally. This helps keep energy bills down. Plus, these systems are also easy to maintain, especially compared to split systems. With all parts together in one place just outside your post frame building, you just have to open a cabinet door and get stuck in.

This said, although DIY maintenance has its place, it’s also important to get your unit serviced by a professional technician once a year. In particular, American’s spent between $787 to $2,094 on average on heating last winter and spring, and regular servicing can help keep those costs down. A furnace running efficiently ends up using less energy over time. A professional technician can also check your unit for corrosion, change dirty filters, and replace any parts before it breaks down completely and requires more expensive repairs or a replacement.

Air source heat pumps

In winter, an air source heat pump takes warm outdoor air, and transfers it inside to heat up your post frame building. In summer, this system does exactly opposite: inside heat is expelled outside to keep interior temperatures nice and cool. These units are also cost efficient. According to U.S. Department of Energy, air source heat pumps “deliver up to three times more heat energy to a home than electrical energy it consumes”. For post frame buildings, ductless heat pumps are a simple option. A three-inch hole through a building wall is all needed to join exterior condenser with interior units. If you do go with this system, you may want to keep exterior unit away from your windows as its fans do create some noise. You also have an option of standing unit on a noise-absorbing base for further sound insulation.

Ductless mini-split HVAC systems

A ductless mini-split system provides heating and cooling without a need for duct installation, making them another great choice for post frame buildings. This system consists of one small outdoor unit on exterior of your building and multiple small indoor units running on electricity. In comparison to regular heat pumps pushing warm or cool air through ducts, mini-split heat pumps can direct air to different zones or rooms in your post frame building depending on your needs.

Modern systems sometimes also have intelligent sensor technology specifically directing heat or air to where it’s needed most. These sensors can even tell how hot or cold you are. So, for example, if you use your post frame building as a gym, this system will automatically blow cold air on you as you’re working out. Auto-off and energy saving functions also prevent energy waste and save money.

A good heating and cooling system is key for keeping your post frame building comfortable all year long. Whether you go for a packaged HVAC unit, air source heat pump, or ductless mini-split, any one of these options is bound to work great in your post frame building.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Ventilation, Building Interior, Budget, Pole Barn Heating, Barndominium, Insulation, Pole Barn Design, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Building How To Guides and tagged air source heat pumps, HVAC, pole barn heating, pole barn cooling, ductless mini-split HVAC systm on July 23, 2024 by Rick Ochs.

Insulation Option, Condensation Control, and Plans Only?

Today’s Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about adding a styrofoam insulation board to help keep a pole barn warm, how to best prevent condensation, and if one can purchase plans only instead of the complete kit.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I recently built a pole barn, I’m in Ohio. I put in a 15000w electric heater, it does an ok job as long as it’s not 20 degrees out. My question is, can I use styrofoam insulation board that is 1″ think for insulation on the trusses? I have a condensation layer on the roof metal. I’d like to start somewhere and I thought this would be least expensive. Thanks. TERRY in CARROLL

DEAR TERRY: If “on the trusses” is in reference to across truss bottom chords, chances are good your trusses can support their weight if your insulation board is polyisocyanurate. Polyiso weighs in at roughly 0.25 pounds per square foot per inch of thickness. An inch of polyiso provides an in service R value of roughly 5.6. Polyiso insulation may need to be fire or flame spread protected, by Building Code – you will want to consult with your local Building Official, prior to moving forward. Adequate ventilation must be provided for your dead attic space (read more about ventilation requirements here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/03/adequate-eave-ridge-ventilation/)

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m working on building a 30×40′ post frame building for storage/ garage and workshop and I live in Kansas so it’s cold in the winter and humid in the summer so I have concerns about condensation. I’ve looked into the single and double bubble foil insulation products and just the foil sheets for thermal/ condensation and the condensation blankets.

I plan to eventually insulate the walls and heat with a wood burning stove and just open the garage doors and turn on a fan in the summer. When I pour my slab I have 10mil vapor barrier that will go down on the ground.

What would be my best budget option to help control condensation and insulate some? JOEY in ANDOVER

DEAR JOEY: I will do my best to balance ‘best’ and ‘budget’.

Kudos for use of a under slab vapor barrier thicker than 6mil. My typical recommendation is 15mil, but 10 is certainly a step up. Make certain overlaps are well sealed and run it up inside and onto top of your pressure preservative treated splash planks (bottom girt).

Walls – use a well-sealed Weather Resistant Barrier (WRB) between framing and steel siding. Read more about WRBs here – https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/01/determining-the-most-effective-building-weather-resistant-barrier-part-1/. Frame walls with commercial bookshelf girts (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/09/commercial-girts-what-are-they/). Install unfaced fiberglass batt insulation between girts, with a well-sealed 6mil clear visqueen vapor barrier on inside.

Roof – order roof steel with an Integral Condensation Control factory applied (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/09/integral-condensation-control-2/). Roof trusses should be ordered with raised heels two inches greater in height than thickness of blown in fiberglass attic insulation (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/07/raised-heel-trusses/) and attic adequately ventilated with vented soffit panels at eaves and a vented ridge.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good Morning, Can I just order the plans for a pole barn instead of the full building kit? TANNER in BOWLING GREEN

DEAR TANNER: Thank you for your inquiry.

Hansen Pole Buildings are carefully designed and engineered to exacting and stringent standards. Included with these structural design solutions are some components an average individual cannot just go buy off a shelf at your local lumber dealer or big box store. Due to liability issues with materials specified on plans not being able to be readily acquired by general populace members, our third-party engineers are unable and unwilling to put their seals and signatures on plans where we are not providing components. Even if they were to do so (and you could find parts as specified) we have so much buying power, we are able to provide materials at a price level competitive to anything you would be able to acquire on your own.