Tag Archives: post frame concrete

Can Trees Cause Uneven Floors in My Post Frame Building?

Can Trees Cause Uneven Floors in My Post Frame Building?

Tree roots can extend to soil beneath your post frame building and cause shifting leading to uneven flooring. A tree is far larger than what you can see. There is an entire extensive root system below grade, one extending for yards. Though roots are out of sight, they shouldn’t be out of mind.

Roots naturally grow towards water and soil nutrients. Something as simple as a cracked plumbing pipe near your post frame building can cause water to seep into soil. This causes roots to gravitate accordingly.

Contrary to popular belief, these roots themselves don’t cause direct damage. Roots typically don’t have enough strength to split concrete unless there is pre-existing damage. Rather roots disrupt soil conditions. A root can consume soil’s moisture and nutrients. This leads to loose soil, less able to support your building’s weight. Soil requires moisture to retain solidity. Without it, soil becomes less compact.

Degree a tree root can inflict damage depends largely on soil conditions. Soil containing heavy concentrations of clay compacts more easily, making it harder for roots to push through it. Soil consisting primarily of gravel and loose dirt, is less compact, making it easy for roots to navigate through. Soil with heavy sand composition is also really vulnerable since sand is moisture-dependent for retaining its solidity.

If you notice uneven or sloped flooring, a foundation repair expert should perform an evaluation to determine cause. If a tree on your property is close to your post frame building, then it may very well be your culprit. If so, then this tree may need to be removed. When we say removed, we mean uprooted. It is not enough to just cut tree and leave stump behind; as this means roots also remain. If roots remain, offending tree may be able to resprout.

Even if your floor is fine, should you be concerned if you have a tree? Multiple factors are in play, such as soil condition previously mentioned. Tree species matters as well. Some species grow longer root systems than others. Examples of trees with non-invasive roots include:

· Sugar, silver, and Norway maples
· Willow trees
· Oak trees
· Ash trees

These trees have shallow roots, usually extending only four to eight-inches below ground. Don’t forget, though, distance matters as well. Trees should be planted no closer than 20 feet within your building, though even this rule isn’t ironclad. Once again, it depends on tree species. When in doubt, err on caution’s side, as this is an area you can proactively control.

Financing, Ventilation for Metal Trussed Shed, and Concrete Costs

This week the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about what financing is available for a post frame building, a question about ventilation for a metal trusses pole barn, and a comparison of concrete costs for post frame vs red iron buildings.

MoneyDEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m looking to build a 25′ x 50′ pole barn 16 ft with an open lean-to on each side. I’d like the lean-to’s to be 20′ wide and the same depth (50′).so the total width would be 65′ by 50′ deep. My question is about financing. I’m not sure how financing would work. Do you have a financing co. or if that something I would get on my side? Thanks SHANE in BRIDGETON

DEAR SHANE: Financing is actually quite simple. Here is link to apply: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/financing/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am looking at building a 30×50 pole barn with metal trusses.  There is no soffit. I will be adding central hvac unit. Will stud up the walls between posts and add faced fiberglass Batts. Ceiling will be kept vaulted with metal on underside. Question is what insulation should I go with in the ceiling and will I have issues with not having a soffit or any roof venting? CHRIS in COLUMBIA

DEAR CHRIS: If you are insulating directly above bottom of trusses, then you need to ventilate this dead attic space. You could use rectangular gable vents spaced along each sidewall and have a vented ridge.

https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/03/adequate-eave-ridge-ventilation/
I would recommend blowing in granulated Rockwool, as it has a high R-value to thickness and is unaffected by moisture. You are in Climate Zone 3, so you should have at least a R-49 in your ceiling.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU:  I am looking into your building system and I wanted to compare the general concrete amount and cost.  Would you say that a pole barn uses less concrete than a red iron/tube steel building?  If so, how much generally speaking and what details can you provide. BRONSON

Screeding ConcreteDEAR BRONSON: Thank you for your interest in a new Hansen Pole Building.

Tube steel buildings are generally not considered to be permanent structures, so generally use very little concrete (and usually cannot be permitted, as they are not permanent).

Red Iron (Pre-engineered Metal Buildings) usually require you to hire an independent foundation engineer. As PEMBs have a significant outward force at base of frame verticals, they most often have a significantly large pier at each column (and require precision placed anchor bolts). Actual dimensions will vary greatly due to dimensions of building, roof slope, soil conditions and if there is a concrete slab on grade or not. It is not uncommon for single piers to take a yard or more of concrete.

Obviously many aspects come into play in determination of post frame building column concrete. Other than miscellaneous door columns, it would not be unusual for a 40′ x 60′ post frame building (as an example) to need under three yards of concrete for all column footings. Post frame slabs on grade do not require thickened edges – so a nominal four inch slab 40′ x 60′ would take 30 yards of premix.