Tag Archives: professional registered engineer

Costs to Finish Kit, Rebuild or New Build, and Size Recommendation

This week’s ask the Guru answers reader questions about the costs accrued to finish a home after investing in a kit, performing an extensive remodel on an existing barn or tear down and build a new structure, and a building size recommendation for a grow facility.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: After purchasing large kit for residential home what cost can I expect to finish the house? I know a lot depends on finishes and stuff but I want to know if this is a realistic option. We will be purchasing land and we will be installing well and septic but I am just trying to figure building and finishing of house. LAURA in PEARLAND

DEAR LAURA: Assuming you are doing as much DIY as possible, your barndominium building kit is usually about 1/3rd of your overall investment (not including land, site prep, utilities and permits).

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: We’re looking at purchasing a property that has a large barn. Would it be better to use the existing structure and add what’s needed to make it a combination barn and residence, or should we tear it down to the frame and start from there? And if we do use this existing barn, would your company be able to modify a set of plans for our design? JEFF in OAK HARBOR

DEAR JEFF: Oftentimes it becomes far more practical to tear down and start from a clean slate. Structural upgrades need to be accounted for in making a barn capable of withstanding higher loads and deflection criteria for a residential structure. Should you decide to utilize this existing barn, you should engage a Registered Professional Engineer to physically evaluate this structure and do an analysis of needed upgrades. Combining a barn with a residence also results in fire separation issues, in some jurisdictions, this can mean up to two-hour fire walls, eliminating any ability to go directly from residence into barn.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: My license is for between 2,501 square feet to 7,500 square feet of canopy. What size pole building would I need which would leave me room for drying, packaging, etc? DAVID in MAGNOLIA

DEAR DAVID: Most facilities we have provided have ranged between 6,000 and 10,000 square feet. I always encourage clients to erect as large of a facility as they can economically justify and fit on their property. 50-60% of your space should be dedicated to growing. Any less and it can be a struggle to be profitable, any more and ancillary operations become tight. Plan upon enough height to allow for two tiered growing (minimum 16 feet of interior clear height).

Engineering an Open Pavilion

Engineering an Open Pavilion

Professional Engineer KEN in AIRVILLE writes:

Working on engineering a post frame equipment open pavilion 28×48. Only has 2 posts on the front wall and big ass flat girder for a header. See attached plans. I have done them all different ways before I a structural engineer who grew up at my father’s sawmill and been in the engineering and framing for 30+ years. Been reading your blogs especially all the info on knee braces. I agree the skin gives you 90% of lateral capacity over embedded posts or knee braces. But that is pretty much all we have to use on an open structure. I didn’t really want to use buried posts for longevity but may be best for lateral capacity. I only have 2 columns in the front holding the roof up so I wanted to come out of the ground with a big ole concrete pier in case it ever got impacted. Would love to discuss post frame design theory with you. One of your guys used to be a truss designer also I read somewhere. I know that industry very well been in it my entire life. Have a great day.”

Mike the Pole Barn says:

Thank you for reaching out and for forwarding your draft plans.

I was in ownership or management of prefabricated wood truss facilities for over two decades, in my “past” life.

Unless there is some strong objection, embedded columns are probably going to provide your best design solution, as well as being easiest to construct. You will want to specify UC-4B for treatment, as this should assure a lifespan greater than our grandchildren’s grandchildren.

If bracket mounts end up being your solution, look at using Sturdi-wall Plus brackets, as they have a far greater moment resisting capacity than do Simpson products and have an ICC-ESR approval.

I would look at placing low side columns every 12′, using a pair of trusses ganged together and notched into columns, with 2x purlins recessed between top chords, in Simpson hangers.

On high side, parallel chord flat trusses could be used for your ‘beam’, also notched into columns. Mono truss top chords could be run across top of trussed beam and look at making connection between mono trusses and beam a fairly stiff one.

Explore using full length treated glu-lam columns, without knee braces. Your knee bracing challenge is two-fold – you have to deal with forces being put into trusses by knee brace and toughest – coming up with a connection adequate to be able to transfer those forces. Your column sizes will be dictated by L/d ratio, so even if your knee braces were to work in the direction of truss span, you still have slenderness in length of building. It looks to me like a 6 ply 2×8 glulam from Rigidply (7″ x 8-1/16″) should be capable in both directions.

In order to not void roof steel paint warranty, look at a roof slope of 3/12 with an Integral Condensation Control factory applied to prevent condensation drippage.

The NFBA has available a Non-Diaphragm Design Guide (https://www.nfba.org/aws/NFBA/pt/sd/product/14888/_PARENT/layout_details/false), it may prove helpful for this project.