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Hansen Buildings Tech Support

What Real Life Technical Support Sounds Like

Many of us have had situations where we needed to contact a company we have purchased a product from for some technical assistance. I know when I have done so, every once in a while I am thankfully surprised to have the person I am dealing with actually have a grasp of the English language.

Here is what the Hansen Pole Buildings Technical Support team is like in real life:

Client: “Plans call for wing roof steel to extend past column when there is an overhang. With the provided length of roof steel, this leaves a short section at the top, uncovered. What is the plan, to cover with trim? What trim is recommended? Is there an option to have a longer piece (x4) to extend to the top of the varge rafter?” (Author’s Note: This happens to be a monitor style building, with a raised center clearspan and dropped sheds – or wings – on each side) Tech Support: “Thank you for utilizing the Hansen Pole Buildings Technical Support Department.

In review of your plans, the wings extend horizontally from the main building columns, to the wing Building Lines 12′. The overhang past the wing Building Line is 1′, fascia board is 1-1/2″ and the steel should extend 1-1/2″ past the fascia.

Summing these up = `13.25′ X the roof slope factor for 4/12 (1.0541) = 13.96′

The steel provided for the wing roofs of your building is 14’2.5″ in length, which is more than ample to cover the roof surface.

Where the wing purlins overhang the endwall, the steel will project upwards (towards the raised center) by 2.5″ past the uphill side of the highest purlin. A piece of LG-126A (1-1/2″ x 5-1/2″ L Trim) has been provided to cover the wide face and bottom edge of the extended top purlin to protect it from the weather.

In the event the roof steel does not appear to be long enough to allow for this coverage, please (a) measure the length of the steel and/or (b) verify the dimensions of the wing as 12′ and overhang as 1′. If the steel is short, please contact Justine@HansenPoleBuildings.com for prompt resolution.” There is, of course, the possibility the overhangs were cut a bit longer than anticipated by the plans. If so, it is an easy fix, before the steel is applied. This is one more reason the entire roof is to be framed and covered prior to any wall coverings – it would be far more complex to make changes to the overhangs and any soffit supports with the wall steel in place.

Real life tech support comes from not a myriad of people who have canned answers which may or may not be helpful, but in our business one of three people. The majority are answered by myself, the Pole Barn Guru, with over 35 years of experience and 14,000 pole buildings. Second, by Eric, one of the two business owners, and third, by Justine, Hansen Buildings’ materials buyer. All three of us answer emails and texts virtually 24/7. We value our clients and want every one of them to have The Ultimate Post Frame Experience.

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Building How To Guides, Steel Roofing & Siding and tagged , , on by .

Endwall Trusses, Valley Flashing, and Roof Sheathing

This week’s Ask The Guru addresses how a single truss is used at endwalls instead of a double truss, use of valley flashing on roof applications, and the need for sheathing on a roof.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: On a double truss system with 12′ o/c how do you do the gable ends? MICHAEL in KALAMAZOO

DEAR MICHAEL: A single truss is placed on each endwall. If building has end overhangs, they are supported by purlins running over top of end truss (end truss is lowered by height of purlins adjusted for slope of roof).

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Roof only pole building, does flashing go in the roof valley on the dormer? STACY in CARRIERE

DEAR STACY: Regardless of whether a building is a roof only, or fully enclosed – if it has steel roofing, then valley flashing must be used to properly seal any valley. For extended reading: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/01/dont-let-valleys-get-you-down/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do I need to use sheathing under my pole barn garage roof? JOHN in BRIGHTON

DEAR JOHN: If using anything other than structurally rated, through-screwed steel roofing, then your answer is most likely yes. With through screwed steel roofing, provided you have utilized appropriately sized fasteners, at correct spacing, then sheathing would only be a requirement if shear loads are greater than what your roofing’s shear load capacity is. In most instances fasteners at top and bottom of panels should be something such as Leland Industries ‘diaphragm screws’ on both sides of each high rib. For extended reading on these screws, please read: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2024/03/thru-screwed-steel-screws/

This entry was posted in Lumber, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Fasteners and tagged , , , , , , on by .

OSB Sheathing, Plywood for Roof Strength, and Brackets for Helical Piers

This Wednesday the Pole barn Guru answers reader questions about adding OSB sheathing under new roof steel, as well as more trusses and carriers to support the new loads, a concern about the need for plywood under roof steel to make a building stronger, and if Hansen has a bracket to use with a helical pier in post frame design.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have an older building that was built with 8′ oc trusses. I plan to replace the roof and all of the siding to update it and solve all of the leaks. However, I want to add osb sheathing underneath the roof steel because I have to get on the roof to clean the gutters 4 or 5 times a year. Currently the roof system has the typical on edge purlin with single truss design and I’ve spoken to some engineers who suggest adding large headers between the wall columns then adding 2′ oc trusses to accommodate the sheathing load. My question is: Are there any other options to allow me to add sheathing to the roof such as double truss with joist hangers between them and purlins that are flush with the tops of the trusses? I really like having the 8’oc for the space it gives me overhead and I’d like to keep as much of that as possible. Thanks in advance! JAMES in LA CROSSE

DEAR JAMES: Have you considered investing in a quality gutter system so you do not have to clean them out regularly? Raptor Gutter Guard seemingly is most highly recommended https://www.raptorgutterguard.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoY2p2OzLhAMVJlFHAR0G-gzoEAAYASAAEgKrn_D_BwE

With this said 7/16″ OSB weighs all of 46 pounds for a 4′ x 8′ sheet (1.44 pounds per square foot). Chances are better than fair this extra weight is within design capacities of your existing roof system. This would allow for you to add OSB, running it up roof (from eave to ridge) and fastening directly to existing roof purlins.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good afternoon, I have been working with Cory in the design department. He has referred me for some additional information. We are looking at building a 30 wide by 60 long 15 foot sidewall 5/12 Pitch roof pole barn. My husband is being insistent on wanting to put plywood on the entire roof, saying it will make the roof stronger. Thus the entire building stronger. I was wondering if you could address that type of construction versus the construction that would be specked for my area which is upstate New York zip 13736. I appreciate your help and answering this question. KAREN in BERKSHIRE

DEAR KAREN: Think of properly fastened steel roofing as performing like very strong, very thin plywood. On a building of your proposed dimensions, with your wind and snow loads, your building’s steel cladding will easily carry all of these with ease. Adding plywood under your roof steel will not increase your building’s load resisting capacity. It could help to minimize damage from a catastrophic hail storm (for extended reading on preventing hail damage in extreme circumstances https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/11/how-to-minimize-possible-hail-damage/). Best investment to making your building stronger is to order it with greater load capacity than Building Code requirements. Bumping up a flat roof snow load by 5 or 10 psf (pounds per square foot) and/or design wind speeds by 5 or 10 mph, often adds very little to your investment and then every component and connection is engineer verified for those greater loads.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I own a helical pier installation company based out of MN, and I have a customer that’s interested in having install helical piers for their upcoming pole shed project. I was reading online that your company has a bracket available and I would like more information on that if possible. I appreciate your time and look forward to hearing from you. CHRIS in ALBERTVILLE

DEAR CHRIS: We had a plethora of discussions with a helical pier provider several years ago and its weak link (one they had not solved) was attaching columns to piers. Neither of us (or anyone else I have found) has developed a structurally sufficient, code accepted transition so far. Post frame has some tremendous reactions at ground line to resolve in whatever connector or bracket is eventually developed.

This entry was posted in Footings, Columns, Pole Barn Homes, Lumber, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Barndominium, Trusses and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Open Cell Spray Foam to Roof Steel – When Insulation is Done Wrong

Open Cell Spray Foam to Roof Steel – When Insulation is Done Wrong

Reader JOSH in FARMINGTON writes:

“I recently had a pole barn built and after doing a lot of research, went with 5″ of open cell under the roof and on the gables. I did not have any kind of vapor barrier, as I was worried the weight of the foam would cause it to sag and create air gaps where moisture could accumulate. I checked with the metal supplier to confirm it would not cause warranty issues and they said it would not. I am somewhat 2nd guessing the open cell, but I did it because I want to make sure I see any leaks that might occur from the exposed fasteners. I have not insulated the walls yet as I wanted to get all the electrical done. My plan was I would spray low expansion foam at the top and bottom of the metal sheets because right now there are no foam seals so you can actually see daylight even with the metal rat guards. To seal these up I want to use Great Stuff Pond & Stone foam. It’s black to match the trim in case it pushes out, it’s waterproof, it’s low expansion, and it’s UV rated. Then I was going to put 1.5″ foam board between the purlins, sliding it behind the posts. Following up with covering both with another sheet of 2″ foam board and use tape at the seams and some more foam at the posts. My thought is this would create a good vapor barrier, but I’m second guessing that now. For one reason, I don’t know how I’d seal things up above the header. They used a double 2×10 on each side of the post to act as the header. I do not plan to put a ceiling up and I will have a split system with a gas furnace installed soon to keep the space tempered between 60-80. I’ll heat it up or cool it down as needed when I’m using it. Do you see any issues with this setup? I’m a little worried about not having a vapor barrier on the roof. In Arkansas, we have all seasons, but it stays pretty muggy.”

My first concern is your open cell spray foam against roof steel. You have an application here I would never recommend. Open cell spray foam allows moisture to pass through, so you are going to end up with moisture condensing on underside of roof steel. I do not have a solution at hand for this – perhaps whoever installed your spray foam has some ideas.

As you propose to insulate your walls, you are creating a vapor barrier – meaning your walls will ‘dry to inside’ – adding even more moisture to potentially cause a problem in your open cell roof insulation. I would remove steel siding from a wall at a time, then install a well-sealed housewrap. Fill insulation cavity with rockwool batts (as it is not affected by moisture), with an interior vapor barrier. Walls will now dry to outside.

Chances are you are going to need to mechanically dehumidify your building in order to minimize condensation from moisture hitting roof steel.

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Heating, Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, Pole Barn Structure, Uncategorized, Ventilation, Insulation, Building Interior, Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Roof Steel, Building a Post Frame House, and Fire Restoration

This week the Pole Barn Guru answers questions about a possible roof steel replacement, planning a post frame house, and assistance finding a contractor to complete fire restoration of a post frame building.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good day PBG, I have a huge old wooden beam barn currently covered with standing seam tin roofing. I thought that would be the best to keep. However, it seems I have to have it painted more frequently and expensively than I planned.

Would it make sense to change the type of roofing?  Perhaps 50 year residential house shingling? There are so many good roofers competing for that business, I think I can have it done relatively cheaply. What about the new membranes I see on the market?

I value your thoughts on this.

Thank you for your consideration

JOHN in WASHINGTON D.C.

DEAR JOHN: Good afternoon. Something is wrong with your existing roofing or it has been on for many years as it should not have to be repainted.

For economy and durability I would recommend using through screwed 29 gauge three foot wide panels with Kynar paint (for any color other than White).

Shingled roofs are probably not what you think they should be: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/10/ask-the-builder/

I would need more clarification from you on “membranes”.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hi there!! I am a single mom with 1 daughter. I want to build a pole barn house on my mom’s land. My price range is about 100k and I have about 20k to put down. I know absolutely nothing about building a home and especially nothing about a pole barn home. I am hoping I can spend less money on the outside and be able put more money on the inside to have the amenities and design/layout that I want. Where do I even begin?

THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN OFFER!!

JELEE in JOPLIN

DEAR JALEE: You have come to the right place. Our team members at Hansen Pole Buildings are barndominium experts. Links in this article will get you started: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/10/show-me-your-barndominium-plans-please/

Plan tips – consider these factors:

Direction of access (you don’t want to have to drive around your house to get to garage doors)

‘Curb appeal’ – what will people see as they drive up?

Any views?

North-south alignment – place no or few windows on north wall, lots on south wall
Overhang on south wall to shade windows from mid-day summer sun If your AC bill is far greater than your heating bill, reverse this and omit or minimize north overhangs.

Slope of site

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello, I’m in need of someone to make a repair to a shop bay that received some fire damage. It’s located in Columbia, Tn. just an hour south west of Nashville. Do you some one that can make repairs on these metal over wood frame buildings? Someone I could set up a meeting with to get a quote?

Thanks DAVID in COLUMBIA

DEAR DAVID: You are nearly neighbors with our oldest daughter Bailey who lives in Shelbyville!

If you respond with photos of your building damage and a contact phone number we can post it up for members of Hansen Pole Buildings’ independent Builder Network to contact you directly. These builders are not affiliated with Hansen Pole Buildings and it is totally up to you to properly vet them out: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/04/vetting-building-contractor/

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Questions, Roofing Materials, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Rebuilding Structures and tagged , , , , , on by .

How Roof is Done, “Logs” for Kits, and Two-Story “Shoffice”(?)

This Monday, Mike the Pole Barn Guru discusses the ins and outs of a roof, lumber provided with the Kit, and if we can offer a two story shed/office (“Shoffice”?).

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: How is the roof done? Do you use screws or nails? Is the frame wood or steel? MARY in MT. PLEASANT

DEAR MARY: Most of our buildings have steel roofing (although any roofing type can be used – shingles, tile, etc.). We recommend using some method of controlling possible condensation on underside of steel roofing – either a Reflective Radiant Barrier (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2017/05/effective-reflective-insulation/), an Integral Condensation Control (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2017/03/integral-condensation-control/) either of these two we typically supply or two inches of closed cell spray foam.

All of our steel roofs are fastened with 1-1/2 inch long, color matched and powder coated screws.

All Hansen Pole Buildings have a structural wood framework, making them very DIY friendly. This wood framework eliminates thermal transference issues found in steel frame buildings.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Looking at a 40x44x18 garage kit from sales at Home Depot. I read reviews & they talk about “logs” showing up & sawing the lumber. Is this the case?? Not much of a kit if you have to make your own dimensional lumber? RICHARD in SHILOH

DEAR RICHARD: Comments/reviews posted on The Home Depot® website for our buildings are literally nothing short of hilarious. Obviously these are not from verified purchasers of our engineered post frame buildings kits. All lumber needed for this and any of our buildings is sawn to size. Dimensional lumber has been planed (surfaced), dried to 19% moisture content or less and grade stamped to verify adequacy for structural usage.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Looking to build workshop and office, would like to know if the kits come in 2 story. Looking at 30 X 30 building with one garage door, two reg. door cut outs and 4 or 5 window cut outs. Looking to build late summer. Thanks, WIL in PROVIDENCE FORGE

DEAR WIL: Without sprinklers, we can provide up to 40 foot tall sidewalls and three stories. If you sprinkler 50 foot sidewalls and four stories.

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Lumber, Pole Barn Questions, Shouse, Roofing Materials, Steel Roofing & Siding, Columns, Lofts and tagged , , , , , , , , on by .

Lumberyards-Don’t Burst Customer’s Dreams

Lumberyards – Don’t Burst Customer’s Dreams

A week or so ago I was contacted in regards to a 42 wide by 48 foot long 12 foot eave post frame (pole) building kit. This person had actually ‘purchased’ this building from a vendor local to him for just over 12,000 dollars with steel roofing and siding, with him to provide his own doors. He was also planning upon adding a front deck (as in photo) at a later date.

Now this seemed to be a heck of a deal. Client had lined up a builder to start right away and all was lovely until his Building Department asked for engineered plans. And his provider of choice could not provide them!

This client was nice enough to provide his earlier provider’s invoice, so we could do a comparison. It was only then that I discovered there was more than just engineer sealed plans absent from this equation.
Look at trusses specified on this invoice. 30 foot span would need a major board stretcher to cover 42 feet. Good news is there are 25 of them, enough to go 48 feet of building length. Bad news is, there is no material for truss carriers (aka headers or beams) to run from column to column to support these trusses. No idea why trusses would have overhangs on only one side.

Posts are perfect in quantity for a 10 foot on center spacing, however there should have been four more (ignoring wrong building width) to have placed client’s three nine foot width overhead doors. In case you are curious, these three doors would not have fit across a 30 foot wide endwall.

Endwall steel is plenty too long for a 12 foot sidewall, however no provision has been made for shorter panels above overhead doors. Where this gets dicey is when roof steel is looked at. 19’3” would be a correct length for a 10-1/2” eave overhang, at 30 foot wide and 8/12 slope. Assuming no end overhangs, each 48 foot roof side takes 16 three foot width pieces. 20 are on the order? Maybe just 30 feet on each side of roof?

No idea what was planned to cover 48 feet of ridge using four 10 foot long ridge caps.
Sidewall steel exhibits similar problems – only 20 pieces 14 feet (again too long for a 12 foot eave), however there is a mysterious 10 pieces of 8’2”.

By now – I am sure you are getting an idea as to how upset this client would have been with his 12 foot too narrow building. How about his builder? Even had 30 foot been accepted, there would have been many a trip back to this supplier (over 50 miles away) to even come close to being able to assemble this mess.
This is what upsets me – this unknowing client has scrimped and saved for his dream building and now believes he can afford it. Only to have those expectations and dreams smashed by a supplier who (in my humble opinion) had no business even leading client to believe they could supply what he desired, wanted and needed.
At Hansen Pole Buildings, we guarantee we will furnish a complete and ENGINEERED post frame building kit per invoice and plans. Along with all step-by-step instructions on how to assemble and unlimited free Technical Support from people who actually know how to erect post frame buildings.
Want it done right? Please dial 1 (866) 200-9657 and speak with a Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer today.

This entry was posted in Building Contractor, Pole Building Siding, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Overhead Doors, Pole Building Comparisons, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Steel Roofing & Siding and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Steel Ridge Cap to Roofing Overlap

Hopefully no one wants to create a roof with leaks. Reader MIKE in HARBOR CREEK wants to make sure he is doing things correctly. He writes:

“How much overlap do you have to have with roofing and ridge cap? Is 2.5″ enough and then you use metal to metal screw you do not have to penetrate the purlins?
Ty”

I cannot vouch for how other building providers assemble their buildings, so I will go with how we do it.

To calculate a building’s roof steel length we take one-half of the building’s span (or horizontal measure from peak/ridge to the outside of columns) and multiply this times a factor for roof slope. 

For slope factor – multiply slope by itself and add 144. Take the square root (use a calculator) of this number and divide by 12.

Example to calculate slope factor for 3.67/12:  [3.67 X 3.67] + 144 = 157.47. Square root of 157.47 = 12.549. Divided by 12 = 1.0457.

For a 40 foot width gabled building with a 4/12 slope this length would be 21.082 feet (call it 21’1”).

Outside of columns at eave we have a 2x of some sort as an eave strut, with a width of 1-1/2 inches and roof steel must overhang this by 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 inches. Using 21’1” for our roof steel length, this means the top edge of roof steel will now be four inches from the peak/ridge.

Standard steel ridge caps are generally very close to 14 inches in overall width, giving somewhere around three inches of overlap on each side. Placed in this overlap will be either a form fitted outside closure strip or a vented closure (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/11/ridge-cap-foam-closure-strips/). Either of these products properly installed will prevent weather (rain and/or snow) from being driven beneath the ridge cap into your building. You can read a little more on correct placements of closures here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/11/outside-closure-and-vented-closure-installation/.

By using metal-to-metal stitch screws to attach the ridge cap to high ribs of roof steel, there is no need to have to miraculously hit any ridge purlins with screws. Here is a brief tale involving a builder who went off on his own tangent https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/12/stitch-screws/.

In summary Mike, provided you have a 2-1/2 inch overlap, have used proper ridge closures and stitch screws your life will be good and you will have a happy end result!

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Building How To Guides, Steel Roofing & Siding and tagged , , , , , , , , , on by .

To Learn More, A Roof Steel Replacement, and Ideal Height

An Engineer wants to Learn More, Roof Steel Replacement, and the ideal Building Height to Accommodate an RV!

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m a licensed engineer in KY. I would like to learn more about pole barn design. Do you have any references that you would recommend? James in KY

DEAR JAMES: The NFBA Post Frame Building Design manual is probably your best structural reference. https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/03/post-frame-building-3/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello. I have a Hansen building I bought in 2005 as a kit. I am planning on installing a new roof on the higher 18′ 40×35 long section. The original roof over the vaulted ceiling has leaked since day one, as the contractor did a very poor job. I’m thinking of doing a snap lock standing seam type with no exposed fasteners. To my surprise two contractors have suggested pulling the existing sheeting and replacing the standing seam( 24 ga), but no underlayment.

I thought the screwed down panels provided shear strength and rigidity to the structure.

BRYAN

Construction MistakeDEAR BRYAN: Indeed, standing seam steel has no shear carrying capacity, as such it should always be installed over 5/8″ or thicker CDX plywood (not OSB). However, chances are your trusses are not designed to support the added weight of the plywood. Depending upon what the exact nature of the poor installation is, the solution might be as simple as replacing offending screws with longer, larger diameter parts (if original screws were merely poorly seated). If the screws were not predrilled (therefore causing screws to either barely hit or miss roof purlins entirely), then new 29 gauge through screwed steel with properly installed screws should solve the challenges (and be phenomenally less expensive).

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Looking to build a pole barn with 14ft height door for a RV. What would the overall height of the building be? Thanks JON in PERRYSBURG

DEAR JON: With a sliding door (not my recommendation) if your building has no endwall overhangs, then 15 foot eave height will work; with end overhangs 15’6” or 15’8” depending upon the dimension of the roof purlins.

Going to a sectional overhead door, allowing for an electric opener your eave height is most likely going to be 16’6”.

If you are planning on climate controlling the building and having a ceiling (smart choices), then the eave height will need to be further increased by the amount of roof truss heel height greater than the most common six inches.

 

 

Eave height is relatively inexpensive, don’t scrimp to try to save a few bucks and be sorry because you end up with a design solution which is less than ideal (aka a sliding door) or an overhead sectional door which will not accept an opener.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials, Pole Buildings History, Pole Building Doors, Professional Engineer, RV Storage and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Considering a Pole Barn, Roof Loads, and Proper Ventilation

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good morning.

I am considering building a pole barn on our land in northwest Georgia and wanted to know the following:

1) On your website, you list links for residential, agricultural, and commercial buildings.  What is the difference between a those three types of buildings?  Are they different because of design or do they each involve different construction materials?  Do the commercial buildings use a lower gauge (thicker) sheet of metal for siding than a residential building?

2) Do you have any product comparison documentation between your kits and the other pole barn kits on the market (DIY, Menards, etc.)?  Interested specifically in design, material, and construction comparisons.

3) Would your pole barn kits be able to accommodate a chimney/stove pipe if I wanted to use a wood burning stove for heat?

Thanks! CHRIS in RISING FAWN

About Hansen BuildingsDEAR CHRIS: The differences for residential, agricultural and commercial buildings shown on our website are for the convenience of those who are looking for a particular end use, it keeps from having to browse through a plethora of photos of buildings which may not be what one is looking for. The construction materials and methods used are going to be individually tailored to the ultimate end needs of each client, as well as the climactic conditions of a particular site.

Our goal is to custom design for you a building which best meets your wants, needs and budget. We are so confident in our ability to provide the best possible value for your post frame building investment, once this is done, we would happily shop this building for you with any other provider or providers you so desire. How easy is this?

(BTW – Menards might be a bit geographically challenging as their nearest location to you is in Owensboro, KY)

Actually any post frame building (not just a Hansen Pole Building) can accommodate a chimney/stove pipe with the use of a Dektite® (read more here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/09/dektite/).

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a 30 year old pole barn that is 30’ x 40’ x 9’ tall. It has a metal roof, trusses are 4’ on center. Can I tear off the metal on the roof and put down OSB and shingles? JIM in LAWTON

DEAR JIM: Chances are excellent your existing roof system is not designed to support the weight of OSB and shingles, as most pole barn (post frame) trusses are designed for a dead load of only 3 to 5 psf (pounds per square foot) which includes the weight of the trusses themselves plus the roof purlins. Steel roofing weighs in at under one pound per square foot. 7/16″ OSB comes in at roughly 1.5 psf, 15# felt and shingles 2.5 psf making the weight combination more than four times greater than the steel.

The big question is – why? Even “lifetime” shingles will usually last only about 15 years and you know the steel roofing you have had made it twice as long. Steel is far more impervious to weather (especially hail) and readily sheds snow, unlike shingles. For my money, if I had to re-roof I would invest in steel roofing with a high quality paint system like Kynar. Read more about Kynar here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/05/kynar/.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a pole building with all metal sheeting. The interior walls are framed and insulated R13 batt. The ceiling is insulated with 1/2 foam a 3/4″ air gap then R19 on top. The underside of the roof is not insulated. I have eave ridge vent. Building is heated in winter. Can I exhaust fumes (paint,lawnmower,etc.) into the attic space and let it vent out the ridge or will I be causing a condensation problem? I will use a standard box fan to blow exhaust into the attic space. I’m also hoping to do this to help melt snow off the roof.
Thanks. RICH in LEHIGHTON

crash-test-dummy-symbolDEAR RICH: I’ve seriously struggled with your question for several weeks now. It lead me to spend hours researching the International Mechanical Code (I am proficient in the IRC and IBC, but not the IMC), looking for backup as to your scenario. In the end it all comes down to this – WHY would you want to dump toxic fumes and their waste into your attic? At some point this has got to be just plain unhealthy.

Whether you do or do not blow exhausts into your attic, your building has the strong potential for a condensation problem because there is no thermal break below the roof steel. You should look at having closed cell spray foam installed on the underside of the roof steel.

As to the heat from the exhaust helping to melt snow off the roof – do not count on it, by the time it gets into your attic, the heat generated will be minimal at best.

This entry was posted in Insulation, Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials, Trusses, Ventilation and tagged , , , , , on by .

Rusted Roof on Pole Barn

Rusted Roof on Old Pole Barn

Reader DAVE in GRANDVILLE writes: “I have a technical question.

I have a older Hansen pole barn that previous homeowners had built. Guessing 20yrs old +/-.
Roof is showing approx 75% rusted with no paint left and all steel on bld. is 50% gone as well.
I’m looking to give it a facelift/remodel for cosmetic/function due to minor roof leaking starting.
Questions:
1. Is there a product available to apply over existing steel roof before have new roof completed? Thoughts: roofing paper, ice/water barrier or something of this nature? This would eliminate need to remove current steel roof that’s insulated beneath steel.
Good idea or bad? Please way in on thought.
2. Is there a alternate paint/epoxy type option for something of this nature vs replacement with new? If so what?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:

It is actually highly doubtful for your building to be a Hansen Pole Building, as we have only been in business since 2002 and did not deliver a building into your state until about 10 years ago. In any case, it sounds like you need some assistance. Unless you are in a highly corrosive atmosphere, it would be unusual for even basic polyester paint to experience the type of deterioration you describe. At 30 or more years of age, it would be more of a possibility.

It would probably be a bad idea to try to roof over the existing roof steel as the screw fastener heads would be in the way. If you feel leaving the roof in place is the only option, you could probably run 2×4 nailers placed flat on the roof every two feet (parallel to the ribs of the roof steel), using a pair of three inch or longer hot dipped galvanized ring shank nails through the nailer, through the existing roofing and into the roof purlins below. Then 2×4 could be placed flat every two feet going the length of the building (again attached with the same nailing as above) to screw the new roofing to.

This solution would also entail adding some sort of new rake and eave trims to keep critters from flying in between layers of roofing and making a home there.

A company called Conklin Products does offer what is purported to be a complete waterproofing system for metal roofs which is advertised to stop leaks and inhibit rust. I have not personally used this product, so it is not an endorsement: https://www.conklin.com/productinformation.cfm?line_id=07,08&pl=02&catID=08&plname=Roof%20Coatings&.

If it was my own roof, I would peel off the existing steel and replace with new steel roofing – which has the best possible warranty against fading and chalking. If available, this is my paint finish of choice: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/05/kynar/.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Roofing Materials, Pole Building How To Guides, Steel Roofing & Siding and tagged , , , , on by .

Spokane? Roof Steel Starts? and Winging It!

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Your from Spokane area? Can one construct a custom pole building as home Spokane county? Would you have any references of builders in my area to consider? TERRY in MEAD

DEAR TERRY: Yes, I was born and raised in Spokane – still have a plethora of family members there (as well as a home).

You (as well as anyone else) can construct a post frame (pole building) home anywhere in the United States. Post frame buildings are totally Code conforming structures. Keep in mind you WILL have to have engineering for your building, which is why it is most beneficial to deal with a building provider who can get engineer sealed plans for you to obtain your Building permit.

The builders we refer are what is known as “technicians” – they are the people who swing hammers and drive nails and screws. They are generally unqualified to assist you through the design phase of your proposed project. Once you have determined the features which best meet your needs for space and your budget, we can provide names of several who you can then vet to determine which will be the fit for you.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a question on first roof metal sheet. How far do I overlap the end soffit fascia board? BILLY in VENICE

DEAR BILLY: The leading edge of the first panel of roof steel should fall directly dead center of the varge rafter. It should not, in any case, extend beyond the rafter.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am looking to build a 20’x12′ pole barn style roof/structure overtop a deck adjoining to 12’x12′ shed all next to a concrete deck/pool. The deck will be connected to the 12’x12′ shed, sharing same roof with having a 4:12 pitch metal roofing on 2×4 perlins. Shed will be 2×4 framed, 2×6 floor joists/frame, 2×6 rafters, 12″ o.c. My deck plan is 2×6 PT framed wrapping around 6×6 posts and using 10 post support pier blocks (6 in middle spaced every 3rd joist and 1 each between 6×6 post to support 2×6 frame). Will that suffice?

– can I use 6×6 PT posts 10′ o.c. with a single 2×12 notched into 6×6 for top header? Or would doubled 2x12s be needed (notched)
– 10 engineered trusses 24″ o.c. on 2×12 header? Or doubled trusses at posts—giving 6 total trusses

Thank you. Your site is very informative. RYAN in MOUNT HOLLY

RYAN: In a nutshell – no, your ideas will not be structurally sufficient. This is one of the reasons the State of New Jersey requires engineer sealed plans for all structures – it is the insurance every building is designed to meet with the requirements of the Building Codes and to protect you and your loved ones from the consequences of the unexpected collapse of some or all of your building.

 

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, Building Department, Steel Roofing & Siding, Building Contractor and tagged , , , , , on by .

Consider Post Frame for New Home!

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Good morning. My name is Thomas and I am with xxxxxx; we manufacture metal roofing and siding and based out of Tennessee. I wanted to ask you a few questions to gain some information. First, my wife and I are starting to look at metal building for our new home, is this something your company is licensed to do in the state of Tennessee; second, I also would like to know if you manufacture your own metal roofing and siding, or if it is purchased from another company. Hope you had a great Christmas and I look forward to hearing back from you. THOMAS in MURFREESBORO

DEAR THOMAS: Thank you for your inquiry. Hansen Pole Buildings provides engineered post frame buildings in all 50 states, including Tennessee. Post frame (pole) building homes have become quite popular in the past few years and chances are excellent we can provide a customized building shell which will ideally meet with your needs and budget. We outsource our metal roofing and siding and we can provide the building sans roofing and siding in the event you should wish to provide your own.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have submitted a request for a quote on our residence but I’ve needed to make a few modifications. How important is post spacing on a residential post frame building? The residence I’m designing is based on nominal 8′ post spacing but with the interior design I have, a couple of the posts interfere with window/door placement. I’ve been assuming that as long as opposite side posts are aligned so that the trusses are supported, the post position can be varied somewhat. On our design, I’ve assumed nominal 8′ post spacing but actual spacing winds up being as close as 7′ and as wide as 10′ 6″. Can irregular post spacing be accommodated or do I need to modify our interior design? Thanks LONNIE in COLORADO SPRINGS

DEAR LONNIE: Your assumption, “as long as opposite side posts are aligned so that the trusses are supported, the post position can be varied somewhat” is absolutely correct. In most circumstancing having the sidewall columns spaced at 12 foot on center is your most economical, so anything at this spacing or less should not be an issue from an engineering and design standpoint. When you arrive at an ideal spacing, please make sure it is listed on any quotes and invoices, otherwise there is always the possibility of columns being reorganized to the most cost effective combination.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Is there a recommended distance from the peak of a roof that the top purlin is installed, and why? WILL in NEWPORT

DEAR WILL: Yes there is a recommended distance. Here is the applicable excerpt from the Hansen Pole Buildings’ Construction Manual:

“With standard steel ridge caps, the ridge purlin “uphill” side can be no closer to peak than five inches. This may result in space between ridge purlin and next purlin “downhill” being decreased. Ridge purlins can be further from truss peak than the minimum distances, without negatively affecting building. Roof ridge caps attach to roof steel with metal-to-metal screws, not to ridge purlins, so ridge purlins need not align with future ridge cap fastener locations.

If ridge purlins are “uphill” further than this, roof steel may not have an adequate overhang at eave and challenging situations will result!”

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Planning, Steel Roofing & Siding, Pole Building Doors, Windows, Columns, Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials and tagged , , , , , on by .

Hansen Buildings Tech Support

What Real Life Technical Support Sounds Like

Many of us have had situations where we needed to contact a company we have purchased a product from for some technical assistance. I know when I have done so, every once in a while I am thankfully surprised to have the person I am dealing with actually have a grasp of the English language.

Here is what the Hansen Pole Buildings Technical Support team is like in real life:

Client: “Plans call for wing roof steel to extend past column when there is an overhang. With the provided length of roof steel, this leaves a short section at the top, uncovered. What is the plan, to cover with trim? What trim is recommended? Is there an option to have a longer piece (x4) to extend to the top of the varge rafter?” (Author’s Note: This happens to be a monitor style building, with a raised center clearspan and dropped sheds – or wings – on each side) Tech Support: “Thank you for utilizing the Hansen Pole Buildings Technical Support Department.

In review of your plans, the wings extend horizontally from the main building columns, to the wing Building Lines 12′. The overhang past the wing Building Line is 1′, fascia board is 1-1/2″ and the steel should extend 1-1/2″ past the fascia.

Summing these up = `13.25′ X the roof slope factor for 4/12 (1.0541) = 13.96′

The steel provided for the wing roofs of your building is 14’2.5″ in length, which is more than ample to cover the roof surface.

Where the wing purlins overhang the endwall, the steel will project upwards (towards the raised center) by 2.5″ past the uphill side of the highest purlin. A piece of LG-126A (1-1/2″ x 5-1/2″ L Trim) has been provided to cover the wide face and bottom edge of the extended top purlin to protect it from the weather.

In the event the roof steel does not appear to be long enough to allow for this coverage, please (a) measure the length of the steel and/or (b) verify the dimensions of the wing as 12′ and overhang as 1′. If the steel is short, please contact Justine@HansenPoleBuildings.com for prompt resolution.” There is, of course, the possibility the overhangs were cut a bit longer than anticipated by the plans. If so, it is an easy fix, before the steel is applied. This is one more reason the entire roof is to be framed and covered prior to any wall coverings – it would be far more complex to make changes to the overhangs and any soffit supports with the wall steel in place.

Real life tech support comes from not a myriad of people who have canned answers which may or may not be helpful, but in our business one of three people. The majority are answered by myself, the Pole Barn Guru, with over 35 years of experience and 14,000 pole buildings. Second, by Eric, one of the two business owners, and third, by Justine, Hansen Buildings’ materials buyer. All three of us answer emails and texts virtually 24/7. We value our clients and want every one of them to have The Ultimate Post Frame Experience.

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Building How To Guides, Steel Roofing & Siding and tagged , , on by .
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