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Tension Cable Location, Double Columns, and Girt Dimensions

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about the location of ceiling ties for roof tension, if a person needs to double columns when switching building heights, and a clarification about the dimensions of commercial girts to building columns when used for finishing the interior walls.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hi. I just left you a voicemail; I’m sending pics to illustrate my problem. The tension cables that hold my barn together are 6 feet high (on the 2nd floor). It limits the utility of my barn. I am under the impression there is a way to engineer this to raise them to a more reasonable height without compromising the structural integrity of the building. Thanks, DAVE

DEAR DAVE: Thank you for your photo. Chapter 8 of the International Residential Code has extensive provisions on stick framing roofs. https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2018P7/chapter-8-roof-ceiling-construction.

Using Code provisions, you could have a ceiling tie positioned as great as 1/3rd of rise of roof above top plate of your wall – and do away with your cables entirely.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: When switching building heights, 12′ garage to 10′ living space, should I double the posts and trusses at that point? SCOTT in BROOKVILLE

DEAR SCOTT: Perfect timing as our Design Studio Manager and I just had this discussion! You do not need to double columns. Columns on taller eave portion will carry loads going each direction. Place “end” truss of tall section notched into columns 1-1/2″, then use a truss mounted to face of columns to support lower roof (it will overlap upper roof end truss. Assuming you are using 6×6 (or better yet glulaminated columns https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2024/04/new-hansen-pole-building-roof-supporting-columns/), you can frame this joint wall using 2×6 bookshelf girts 24 inches on center.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I ran across your blog about commercial (bookshelf) girts (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/09/commercial-girts-what-are-they/), and I was a little confused. You mentioned allowing the girt to overrun the exterior face of the column by 1 1/2″ and you gave the example of using a 6×6 post and a 2×8 girt. This confused me because 6×6 is actually 5 1/2 x 5 1/2, and a 2×8 is 1 1/2 x 7 1/4. This would have the girt extending 1 3/4″ beyond the exterior edge of the column, no? Are the posts in your example a unique size to Hansen Pole Buildings, such that the 6×6 is actually 5 3/4 x 5 3/4? If I built this using standard dimensional lumber, I’d have to allow the girt to run past the interior edge of my post by 1/4″ to make this work on the outside. What am I missing? Forgot to add my email in the box! MIKE in OCEAN SPRINGS

DEAR MIKE: Your critical dimension is 1-1/2″ running outside of your columns. In our instance, we actually are now furnishing America’s strongest glulaminated columns in all of our buildings (Read more here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2024/04/new-hansen-pole-building-roof-supporting-columns/) and they measure 4-1/8″ x 5-1/8″. It does not negatively impact your interior finishes to have girts projecting inside of wall columns by even this 5/8″, whether steel liner panels or gypsum wallboard, any interior finish will easily bridge this space.

This entry was posted in Lumber, Budget, Pole Barn Questions, Columns, Pole Barn Design, Fasteners, Roofing Materials, Constructing a Pole Building, Post Frame Home, Pole Building How To Guides, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Building Interior and tagged , , , , , , , , on by .

Adding a Lean-to aka Side Shed

Adding a Lean-to aka Side Shed

Reader PATRICK in REDMOND writes: “I have an existing pole barn that was built in 1999 that I would like to add a lean-to onto. I read your previous blogs about verifying the footing that supports the existing poles – but how do you verify that? Is there a way to inspect that? Your previous blog also stated if the trusses are supported by truss carriers(which mine are) then then the trusses could not support extending the roof(I think I read that correctly) if I wanted to drop my lean-to roof line below the existing roof line would still be a concern? Thank you.”

Thank you for your photos.

In order to verify actual diameter of your footings, if your building has holes entirely filled with concrete, you could measure across top of concrete encasement at ground level. If holes were backfilled with compacted soil, sand or rock, it would take having to excavate along outside of a column until footing was reached and measure across it.

In your instance, trusses are not bearing on truss carriers, but rather bearing blocks placed below truss heels, on each side of columns.

If you drop top end of lean-to below existing eave height, you need to account for added weight of snow slide off and drifting. This can result in larger dimension and/or higher grade lumber being required in order to carry this extra weight.

We can engineer and provide your plans and materials for your lean-to, knowing all of this information below:

Information from your Building Department (listed in these two articles): https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/08/building-department-checklist-part-i/ https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/08/building-department-checklist-2020-part-ii/

While we have this information on file from most jurisdictions, we always want to have it verified before you get to deep into your project.

Width (span) of existing building from outside of column to outside of column. Length of existing building
Existing building sidewall column spacing
Existing building eave height (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2017/10/rehashing-eave-height/)
Existing building roof slope
Existing building column footing diameter
Any overhangs
Will high end of lean-to be at eave height of existing building, or lower? If lower, how much? Width of lean-to Any low eave or endwall overhangs

One of our Building Design team members will be reaching out to you to further discuss your building wants and needs.

This entry was posted in Concrete, Lumber, Rebuilding Structures, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Columns, Building Styles and Designs, Sheds, Building Department, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium and tagged , , , , , on by .

Posts, Trusses and Costs, Slab Thermal Movement, and a Name

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about use of one’s own posts, metal vs wood trusses, and cost of trusses, sealer for slab thermal movement, and what the proper name of a garage, storage, and living quarters would be.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: The barn is to be built in 78594. 60x40x15 with 12′ side extensions.
1. I want to use my own posts for the frame.
2. What trusses can be obtained (metal vs wood) for the roof?
3. What would the trusses cost for the barn in material? LESLIE in SEBASTIAN

DEAR LESLIE: In answer to your questions…

1) Why would you want to use your own posts, when we have available and affordable stronger glulaminated columns than anywhere else in America? https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2024/04/new-hansen-pole-building-roof-supporting-columns/

2) Having spent well over four decades deeply involved with prefabricated wood trusses, I have some direct experience. As far as cost – because we manufacture wood trusses in our plant and ship them with your lumber, they are more cost effective than steel trusses. Our steel trusses are manufactured in Tennessee, so you have two sets of freight costs. If freight was not a factor, it is probably a toss up for costs.

Wood trusses are subject to very strict quality control standards. Every span, of each and every order, must have quality control reports to document correct size, grade and species of lumber as well as correct thickness and dimensions of steel connector plates. Random third-party quality control inspections are done, to verify trusses being produced meet or exceed what is specified on engineer sealed truss drawings. Steel trusses, somehow have escaped this level of quality control (even though Building Codes specify third party inspections must be done).

3) We only provide trusses along with our complete building packages, please call Brenner at (605)432-8981 Monday morning to further discuss your building wants and needs.

 

Screeding ConcreteDEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am getting ready to pour a concrete slab in my 24’x30′ pole barn. I calculated the thermal contraction along the 30′ length to be just over 1/8″. Would it be a good idea to install a foam sill sealer type material onto the inside of the grade boards to accommodate any thermal movement of the slab? DAVID in WESTFIELD

DEAR DAVID: I would be placing R-10 rigid insulation vertically (at least down two feet), attached to inside of my pressure preservative treated splash, with top of insulation even with where top of slab will be. As far as thermal movement goes, this is why expansion joints are placed at 24 to 30 times thickness of slab. As an example a nominal four inch slab (3-1/2 inch actual), should have expansion joints every seven to eight feet.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: O great pole barn genius, what would I want to store an RV, also be at least a 2 car garage, and workshop, with a couple finished rooms for living quarters? What’s that beast called, and what should I budget for it low/high in KY? KIM in PAYNEVILLE

DEAR KIM: Thank you for your oh so kind words, I am humbled. As far as naming it – yours would be my first choice, some would call it a barndominium (especially if it has a kitchen and bathroom), others a shop house. Fully engineered post frame, modest tastes, DIY, budget roughly $75-85 per sft for conditioned spaces, $35 for all others. Does not include land, site prep, utilities, permits. Your Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer, Brenner Carlson will be reaching out to you to provide some firm numbers.

This entry was posted in Building Interior, Shouse, Budget, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Constructing a Pole Building, RV Storage, Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, Trusses, Concrete, Shouse and tagged , , , , , , , on by .

Trusses – Steel or Wood?

Trusses – Steel or Wood?

Reader JOE in ELLIJAY writes:

“Is it more cost effective to use steel trusses vs. wood and what are the pros and cons to each?”

As far as cost – because we manufacture wood trusses in our plant and ship them with your lumber, they are more cost effective than steel trusses. Our steel trusses are manufactured in Tennessee, so you have two sets of freight costs.

If freight was not a factor, it is probably a toss up for costs. Wood trusses are subject to very strict quality control standards. Every span, of each and every order, must have quality control reports to document correct size, grade and species of lumber as well as correct thickness and dimensions of steel connector plates. Random third-party quality control inspections are done, to verify trusses being produced meet or exceed what is specified on engineer sealed truss drawings. Steel trusses, somehow have escaped this level of quality control (even though Building Codes specify third party inspections must be done).

Steel trusses selling points are:

More headroom and storage – structural design combined with fewer trusses allow for more overhead storage. Steel trusses are able to have parallel chords at lesser depths than wood trusses. What they don’t tell you, in their literature, is interior ‘vault’ is usually interrupted with a horizontal steel tie at roughly half height of your interior vault. This cross tie is often somewhere fairly close to building eave height, meaning one does not gain full clear height of lower chord slope. Most steel trusses are designed to be placed every 10 or 12 feet and directly aligning with eave sidewall columns. Hansen Pole Buildings most common truss spacing is also every 12 feet, however we can easily engineer for 14 to 16 foot wide bays.

Faster install times – steel trusses come standard with pre-welded purlin clips every 24 inches. In most instances, our high grade purlin lumber allows for purlins to be 32 inches on center, and our provider will adapt accordingly. Wood trusses do require field installation of purlin joist hangers, however we have streamlined this process by use of Simpson top-flange saddle hangers and structural screws.

Improved aesthetics – enjoy an open and airy interior due to the strength of steel, truss design, and spacing. Whether steel or wood, any truss is only going to be as strong as loads engineered for. You may want to note, steel trusses are generally seen only in regions having little or no snow loads – for a reason. We have engineered wood trusses in areas with snow loads in excess of 400 pounds per square foot! We can easily match or exceed steel truss spacing, with wood. In most instances, wood truss profiles can come very close to those of steel.

Structural integrity – besides being steel, our trusses mount on the top and side of the posts for a stronger structure. Well this would be true as compared to wood trusses mounted at 2 or 4 foot spacings on top of truss carriers (headers) – Hansen Pole Buildings trusses are connected directly to wall columns with Simpson structural screws with trusses placed in notches for an excellent connection.

Wood trusses can routinely be engineered for any roof slope and very complex roof designs. How many times have you ever seen a full hipped steel truss roof? Want a ceiling at bottom chord levels (whether pitched or flat)? Wood trusses shine in this realm. In an unlikely event of fire, wood trusses will char, steel trusses lose their structural integrity and will need to be replaced even if they appear to be okay.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials, Barndominium, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Building Interior and tagged , , , , on by .

Code Requirements for Residential Roof Trusses

Code Requirements for Residential Roof Trusses

Part 2 of 3:

The following is a summary of the IRC requirements for wood Trusses (capitalized terms are defined by ANSI/TPI 1-2014, National Design Standard for Metal Plate Connected Wood Truss Construction, Section 2.2, published by the Truss Plate Institute (TPI)):

· Wood Trusses shall be designed in accordance with accepted engineering practice, and the design and manufacture of metal-plated wood Trusses shall comply with ANSI/TPI 1 (R802.10.2). A read-only version of the full ANSI/TPI 1 document can be downloaded for free at https://goo.gl/j7cK9E.

· The Truss Design Drawings shall be prepared by a Registered Design Professional where required by the statutes of the jurisdiction in which the project is to be constructed in accordance with Section R106.1 (R802.10.2). Note that under the IRC, both the residence and the wood Truss design could be performed by persons who are not Registered Design Professionals. There may be times when the Building Official will require the Truss Design Drawings to be prepared and stamped by a Registered Design Professional even though the structure was not. The key to this IRC provision is that if the jurisdiction requires the Construction Documents to be prepared by a Registered Design Professional, then the Truss Design Drawings shall also be prepared by a Registered Design Professional.

· Truss Design Drawings shall be provided to the Building Official and approved prior to installation (R802.10.1).

· Truss Design Drawings shall be provided with the shipment of the Trusses delivered to the job site (R801.10.1).

· Truss Design Drawings shall include the following information:
Slope or depth, span, and spacing
Location of all joints o Reaction forces and required bearing widths
Top and bottom chord uniform and concentrated loads
Joint connector type and description such as size, thickness, and the dimensioned location of each joint connector
Lumber size, species, and grade for each member
Adjustments to lumber and connector design values for conditions of use
Connection requirements for Truss to girder and Truss ply-to-ply
Calculated deflection ratio and/or maximum description for live and total load
Information to allow the Building Designer to design the size, connections, and anchorage of the permanent continuous lateral bracing
Required permanent Truss member bracing locations

· Truss bracing requirements are found in Section R802.10.3. This section requires Trusses to be braced to prevent rotation and to provide lateral stability. It allows the bracing requirement to be specified in the construction documents or on the individual Truss design drawings. It also states, “In the absence of specific bracing requirements, Trusses shall be braced in accordance with accepted industry practice such as the SBCA Building Component Safety Information (BCSI) Guide to Good Practice for Handling, Installing & Bracing of Metal Plate Connected Wood Trusses.” See the Building Component Safety Information Book (BCSI), which has the above reference guide as a section. (https://goo.gl/phc1gj or https://goo.gl/c9YWGb)

 

ANSI/TPI 1 is the Standard required by both the IRC and the IBC. It establishes the minimum requirements for the design and construction of metal-plate-connected wood Trusses. Chapter 2 of this Standard defines the roles and responsibilities of the various players (Owner, Building Designer, Truss Manufacturer, and Truss Designer), and it is essential to know which role you are playing. Section 2.2 defines the Building Designer as, “Owner of the Building or the Person that contracts with the Owner for the design of the Building Structural System and/or who is responsible for the preparation of the Construction Documents. When mandated by the Legal Requirements, the Building Designer shall be a Registered Design Professional.” Under the IRC, if the jurisdiction does not require the Building Designer to be an engineer, an Owner or a non-engineer may play the role of the Building Designer. This could be problematic because there are technical responsibilities placed on the Building Designer by ANSI/TPI 1. The Truss Designer is defined as, “Person responsible for the preparation of the Truss Design Drawings.” When the Truss Designer is required to be a Registered Design Professional, the Truss Manufacturer engages this engineer. ANSI/TPI 1 also references the BCSI document noted above. It is important to understand the bracing details in this document.

A few key elements of ANSI/TPI 1, with reference sections in parenthesis, are listed below:

1. The Owner is required to engage a Building Designer in preparing the Construction Documents and reviewing the Truss Submittal Package (2.3.1.3).

2. The Owner or Owner’s representative shall be responsible for ensuring that the Truss Submittal Package is reviewed by the Contractor and the Building Designer (2.3.1.5 and 2.3.4.2).

3. The Construction Documents shall show in detail that they conform to the Legal Requirement, including the Building Code (2.3.2.1).

4. The Construction Documents shall list the Truss design as a Deferred Submittal, and the Building Designer shall review the Truss Submittal Package for “compatibility” and “general conformance” with the design of the Building (2.3.2.2 and 2.3.2.3).

5. The Construction Documents shall provide information sufficiently accurate and reliable to be used for the design of the Trusses and shall provide among other things “… the location, direction, and magnitude of all dead, live, and lateral loads applicable to each Truss, including … snow drift and unbalanced snow loads” (2.3.2.4.d). (Note that ANSI/TPI 1 puts the burden of calculating the load on each Truss, including the snow drift load, on the Building Designer.)

6. The serviceability criteria shall be included in the Construction Documents (2.3.2.4.g).

7. Permanent Individual Truss Member Restraint/Bracing shall be per the BCSI unless the Building Designer specifies a project-specific bracing design (2.3.3.1.1, 2.3.3.1.2, 2.3.3.1.3, and 2.3.3.2).

8. Several requirements must be met by the Contractor, including reviewing the Truss Submittal Package and then forwarding it to the Building Designer for review. The Contractor shall not proceed with the Truss installation until the Truss Submittal Package has been reviewed by the Building Designer (2.3.4.2 and 2.3.4.3). The contractor must also check the Trusses for damage both prior to installation and after installation (2.3.4.6, 2.3.4.7, 2.3.4.8, and 2.3.4.9).

9. The Contractor shall provide to the Truss Manufacturer a copy of all Construction Documents pertinent to the Building Structural System and the design of the Trusses, including the name of the Building Designer if not noted on the Construction Documents (2.3.4.1).

10. Where the Legal Requirements mandate a Registered Design Professional for the Building, each individual Truss Design Drawing shall bear the seal and signature of the Truss Designer (2.3.5.3). An exception allows only the Cover/Truss Index Sheet to be stamped.

11. The Truss Designer is only responsible for “individual” Trusses, not the roof system. Section 2.3.5.2 states, “The Truss Designer shall be responsible for the design, in accordance with this Standard, of each singular Truss depicted on the Truss Design Drawing.” It is critical to understand that, per the TPI Standard, the Truss Designer does not have the responsibility to calculate loads for individual Trusses, nor does the Truss Designer have the responsibility for the roof system.

12. The Truss Submittal Package consists of each individual Truss Design Drawing, the Truss Placement Diagram, the Cover/Truss Index Sheet, Lateral Restraint and Diagonal Bracing details, and any other structural details germane to the Trusses (2.2).

13. The Truss Placement Diagram is only an illustration identifying the assumed location of each Truss. It does not need to be stamped because it does not have engineering input (2.3.5.4).

Come back Tuesday September 3rd for the third segment.

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Budget, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Design, Barndominium, Building Department, Roofing Materials and tagged , , , , on by .

Endwall Trusses, Valley Flashing, and Roof Sheathing

This week’s Ask The Guru addresses how a single truss is used at endwalls instead of a double truss, use of valley flashing on roof applications, and the need for sheathing on a roof.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: On a double truss system with 12′ o/c how do you do the gable ends? MICHAEL in KALAMAZOO

DEAR MICHAEL: A single truss is placed on each endwall. If building has end overhangs, they are supported by purlins running over top of end truss (end truss is lowered by height of purlins adjusted for slope of roof).

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Roof only pole building, does flashing go in the roof valley on the dormer? STACY in CARRIERE

DEAR STACY: Regardless of whether a building is a roof only, or fully enclosed – if it has steel roofing, then valley flashing must be used to properly seal any valley. For extended reading: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2021/01/dont-let-valleys-get-you-down/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do I need to use sheathing under my pole barn garage roof? JOHN in BRIGHTON

DEAR JOHN: If using anything other than structurally rated, through-screwed steel roofing, then your answer is most likely yes. With through screwed steel roofing, provided you have utilized appropriately sized fasteners, at correct spacing, then sheathing would only be a requirement if shear loads are greater than what your roofing’s shear load capacity is. In most instances fasteners at top and bottom of panels should be something such as Leland Industries ‘diaphragm screws’ on both sides of each high rib. For extended reading on these screws, please read: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2024/03/thru-screwed-steel-screws/

This entry was posted in Roofing Materials, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Fasteners, Lumber, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Can This Building Be Saved?

Can This Building Be Saved?

Reader BRAYTON in NORTHEAST WASHINGTON writes: “I’ve been previewing your website and am glad I found it!

Question:

I have been contacted recently by a potential client who had a 40′ x 60′ pole building constructed. The original contractor walked off the job. This client wants me to fix the building.

Here’s the situation:

The trusses are sheeted with OSB on one side of the gable trusses. The trusses are leaning toward one gable end. They appear to be warped and seem to have been installed this way. I figure this because the gable ends are not leaning as much as the trusses. The roof purlins are mounted to purlin blocks on top of the trusses and have joints meeting at each set of double trusses (the trusses are mounted on either side of the post).

The trusses were not braced laterally across the bottom chord, nor cross-braced at either gable end. There are missing wall girts and there doesn’t appear to be any bolts and/or hardware attached. The structure sat through a north eastern Washington winter like this. Half of the OSB roof sheathing was installed this spring, when the contractor walked.

The posts are not in line. The posts at the gable ends are inset from the wall posts. The owner states the posts were backfilled with sand. The existing soil has a lot of clay/dirt.

So, is this building salvageable? I was considering temporarily bracing the trusses, removing the roof sheathing, loosening the purlins at one end, and then truss by truss attempt to plumb them – bracing them as I go.

If you have any suggestions, I’d appreciate it.

Thank you.”

Thank you for your kind words. We would be interesting in talking more with you about future builds (please reach out to Rachel@HansenPoleBuildings.com 1.866.200.9657 Friday). Yes, it can be fixed. It will not be cheap – personally I would look at quoting either an hourly or daily rate, plus any equipment rental, as you will have no idea what you are getting into, until you are there. I’d think if you get it stripped down to framing, you could properly align columns (make sure to check if it is even square). Get one endwall straight and plumb, then adjust purlins bay-by-bay, as needed, to straighten each set of trusses.

 

This entry was posted in Rebuilding Structures, Budget, Pole Barn Questions, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Design, Columns, Constructing a Pole Building, Barndominium, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses and tagged , , , , , on by .

Things Hansen Pole Buildings Does Better Than Any Other Post-Frame Building Provider

Things Hansen Pole Buildings Does Better Than Any Other Post-Frame Building Provider

To those of you who have read my previous 13 articles, this will serve as a recap. For you who have not, please peruse when you have an opportunity.

STRONGEST GLULAM COLUMNS

While manufactured from lumber 157% as strong as what is typically found, they have many other benefits. These include (on pressure treated applications) every lamination being completely saturated with preservative chemicals for in-ground portion and roughly 1/3rd weight of a solid sawn 6×6. Glu-lam columns tend to be highly resistant to warp and twist.

SAVINGS FOR BRACKET MOUNTED APPLICATIONS

For bracket mounted application, our same ultra high strength glu-lams are available untreated, helping offset costs of our ICC-ESR code compliant wet set brackets.

COLUMNS NEXT TO DOOR OPENINGS

Not every provider places columns next to every door opening. Not for your doors – either a glu-lam or a bracket mounted kiln dried Douglas Fir timber will support both sides of every door opening!

FOUNDATION RATED #1 GRADE SPLASH PLANKS

Fewer defects, pressure treated throughout and kiln dried after treating for lighter weight.

LUMBER-TO-LUMBER CONNECTIONS

Simpson SDSW16300 screws afford greater strengths and easier adjustments than any sort of nailed connection.

DOUGLAS-FIR WALL GIRT LUMBER

Douglas-Fir is greatly prized for strength and dimensional stability. Less prone to warp, cup, bow and twist than other framing lumber species. 2X8 and 2×10 bookshelf wall girts are PREMIUM graded, minimizing wane (and possible screw misses).

HIGHER GRADED TRUSS LUMBER

No Utility, Standard, Stud or #3 lumber in Hansen Pole Buildings’ trusses. All material is no less than #2 grade.

EASY INSTALL PURLIN HANGERS

Simpson PFDS series hangers slide over pairs of roof trusses and screw to top chords, making for a quick install of hangers as well as connecting chords together at same time.

END PAINTED FRAMING MEMBERS

Wall girts, roof purlins, floor and ceiling joists all have one end uniquely color painted. This immediately allows DIY clients, building erectors and inspectors to quickly identify correct placement of these materials.

EASILY MEASURED SPACING OF WALL GIRTS AND ROOF PURLINS

Spacing has been standardized to fall so measures are evenly divisible into eight (8) feet. Examples are 32”, 24”, 19.2” and 16”, all of these are keyed to markings on standard tape measures. This also matches with applications of 4’ x 8’ sheet goods (plywood, OSB, etc.).

RAISED HEEL INTERIOR TRUSSES

When endwall overhangs are ordered in conjunction with ceiling joists, interior truss heels are greater (raised) in order to have all truss bottoms at same height above grade.

HIGH GRADE RAFTERS

For rafter applications (side or end sheds, monitor building wings) Hansen Pole Buildings has invested in MSR (Machine Stress Rated) lumber 243 to 266% stronger than #2 grades of Douglas-Fir (even greater in comparison to Southern Pine). This allows for greater spans and fewer pieces needing to be used.

FABULOUS FLOOR TRUSSES

By utilizing higher strength lumber, your second floor can be clear-spanned with roughly one inch of truss depth per 18 inches of truss span. Eliminate a profusion of interior columns and bearing walls, HVAC and plumbing can be run through, creating a flat finished ceiling.

MILL DIRECT BUYING

We have cut out middleman wholesalers and retailers buy going direct to mills for multiple truck and rail car loads of lumber – passing these savings on to you!

SHARED TRUCKING

Our shipping expediters consolidate buildings being shipped geographically to minimize freight investments for our clients.

EXTRA SAVINGS FOR STANDARD DIMENSIONS

As lumber comes in two foot lengths and steel roofing and siding in three foot widths, there is already savings to be found in multiples of six feet (less waste). Choose a width in six foot multiples (12’, 18’, 24’, 30’, etc.) and a length of a 12 foot multiple and receive an extra 5% discount!

THE ULTIMATE POST FRAME BUILDING EXPERIENCE

No one does post frame better than Hansen Pole Buildings – and if you are not yet convinced, watch subsequent articles for even more benefits for you!

Don’t rely upon a builder to look out for your best interests in materials’ selection – take control by ordering from us and pay an erector to assemble,

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Barndominium, purlins, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Budget, Lumber, Columns, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Homes, Constructing a Pole Building and tagged , , , , , , , , , on by .

Why Are You Stuck on Bookshelf Girts?

Why in World are you Stuck on Bookshelf Girts?

Reader JAMES writes:

“Why in world are you stuck on bookshelf girts. For instance with ‘normal’ pole barns one could SPF the walls and roof and have almost no heat loss through the lumber. One could argue your “bookshelf girts” and purlins between trusses makes the building VERY close to a “normal home”. Do you offer a traditional style built pole barn as there MUST be savings to be had.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:
There are as many ways to structurally design post-frame buildings as there are providers and builders. Our way of building happens to be very similar to what would be considered as traditional style in Western states such as Washington, Idaho, Oregon, California, etc.

We do happen to offer buildings with columns every eight feet, trusses every four feet – however very few clients ever pick this as an option.

We are always looking at ways to make our post-frame buildings more efficient and DIY friendly, without sacrificing performance.

Worst part of post-frame construction (and least easily to detect challenges in advance) is having to dig holes. By widely spacing columns (usually most cost effective is every 12 feet), number of holes having to be dug is reduced by roughly 1/3rd from eight foot spacings.

Let’s examine R-value, calculated using Type 1, conventional method.

For sake of discussion, we will use an 18 eave height (tall enough for two stories in most instances). I’ve chosen a flash and batt method, for sake of cost effectiveness of insulation.

R-value through cavity

Air film – inside 0.67

½” gypsum wallboard – 0.56

2” closed cell spray foam – 14

5-1/2” Rockwool – 23

Exterior cladding – 0.5

Total R = 38.73

R-value through girts

Air film – inside 0.67

½” gypsum wallboard – 0.56

2×8 girt – 9.06

Exterior cladding – 0.5

Total R = 10.79

On an 18’ wall, in one 12′ bay there will be 8 girts with an area of 1.5” x 144″ x 8 = 1728 square inches or 12 sft (Square Feet)

Total area of a bay = 18’ x 12’ = 216 sft

Hence girts makeup 12 / 216 = 0.056 (5.6%) of wall

10.79 x 0.056 + 38.73 x 0.944 = 37.16

37.16 / 38.73 = 0.959 (95.9% of a wall without girts)

How about pieces in say a 60’ long wall?

Your “traditional”

Splash planks:  1/12’ 3/16’

Girts: Exterior 2×6 8/12’ 24/16’ Interior 2×4 8/12’ 24/16’
NOTE: Exterior girts may fail in deflection, especially at wall corners where forces are greater

Columns (excluding corners): 7/22’

Truss carriers (will vary depending upon roof load): 2×12 2/12’ 6/16’

Me:

Splash planks: 5/12’

Bookshelf girts: 2×8 40/12’

Girt blocking: 2×4 10/16’

Columns(excluding corners): 4/22’

Your version has me handling 74 pieces of lumber, with 1582 bd.ft. (board feet) of lumber vs. 59 pieces with 984 bd.ft. of lumber

Your wall sets outside of external wall girts at Building Line and creates an 8-1/2” thick framed wall. On a 40’ wide building, net framed interior clear width is 38’7”.

My wall has outside of columns at Building Line, so only 5-3/4” is lost on each side. Net framed interior clear width is 39’0-1/2”

In summary, my being stuck on bookshelf wall girts loses only 3.2% to thermal bridging, reduces holes to be dug (per sidewall) by 43%, reduces pieces to be handled 20% and board footage of lumber used by 38%, while delivering a greater net usable interior space.

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Roof Truss Costs, Moisture Barriers, and Integrated Condensation Control

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru addresses reader questions about “the most cost effective length to procure, transport and install of a Post Frame Roof Truss 4/12 Pitch; 36′, 40′ or 50′?” a suitable moisture barrier for a shed, and Integrated condensation controls.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Typically, what is the most cost effective length to procure, transport and install of a Post Frame Roof Truss 4/12 Pitch; 36′, 40′ or 50′? Question is relevant to a mixed-use agriculture building. Thank you for your assistance. LYNNE in EDINBURG

DEAR LYNNE: Transportation can often be a limiting factor. In order to avoid pilot cars and over width permits, maximum truss height is limited to 102″ (8’6″). A 50′ span, 4/12 slope truss will normally be roughly 108″ tall, plus any overhang “tails”. So, this would entail an over width permit. Now most truss companies purchase year-long over width permits for their trucks, so this cost is negligible. Most states do not require pilot cars, unless loads are 12 foot or greater in width. This allows for 60 foot span trusses to be hauled without expensive pilot vehicles. As to procurement, while you will pay more per lineal foot of truss as spans increase, you will also need fewer trusses. For an agricultural building, I always encourage clients to build as large as they can economically justify and have space to build on, as it will never be too big. Keeping your building length to three times building width will also help with your budget, as these ratios are typically within shear load carrying capabilities of properly fastened steel roofing and siding.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a 12′ x18′ unheated shed framed and ready for the metal roof and siding. The roof will anchor to untreated 2″x4″ purlins. Is it ok to use Tyvek or a similar wrap to cover the seams from the top of my purlin ends and hang over the rake rafters that will be covered by the metal siding???? Is this an acceptable secondary water barrier between my roof and wall seam? My shed will most likely have a crushed limestone floor. It will be unheated and “unfinished” on the inside. No windows and 2 barn doors across from each other. Thank you so much. MACK in BATON ROUGE

DEAR MACK: Before placing your limestone floor materials, install a well-sealed vapor barrier (I recommend 15mil in order to minimize potential for punctures). This will help to minimize, or even eliminate condensation challenges. Order your roof steel with an Integral Condensation Control (Condestop, Dripstop or similar) factory applied. Cover walls with Tyvek or similar before installing wall steel.

If purlins cross rake rafters on endwalls, install 2×4 blocking between them to seal any open spaces.

Order steel Rake/Corner trims to cover last rib of roof steel and top of endwall steel (similar to below):

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Building a 50x36x12 pole barn with 4:12 roof pitch. Attic space will be unconditioned with blown in cellulose insulation in ceiling and batten on walls. Attic will be vented with soffit and ridge vent. Walls will have exterior house wrap under metal panels. Question is, what to put under the roof panels? Just a vapor barrier or a dual purpose vapor/radiant barrier? I hear different opinions on placing radiant barrier under roof. STEVEN in SUGAR LAND

DEAR STEVEN: I would order your roof steel with an Integral Condensation Control (Dripstop, Condenstop or similar) factory applied. You can read more about these products here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/09/integral-condensation-control-2/

 

 

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Endwall Overhangs, Foundation Insulation, and Sloping Ground

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about setting trusses on a Hansen Building with endwall overhangs, a solution for an insulation question, and the possibility of building on steep sloping ground with some exposed columns.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Are all trusses set at the same height are the end trusses lower so the purlins hang over the end truss by 2 feet? TROY in SCAPPOOSE

DEAR TROY: Thank you for your investment into a new Hansen Pole Building.

For quickest answers to technical support questions, please refer to Page 2 of your Construction Manual.

Our buildings are designed to maximize interior clear height, so roof purlins are joist hung into sides of interior truss top chords (Detail 5/S-3 of your engineer sealed plans). In order to support endwall overhangs, roof purlins go across end trusses (detail 9/S-4). With a 5/12 roof slope and 2×8 roof purlins, this requires lowering end trusses by 7-5/8″ as shown on Sheet S-4 of plans.

You will want to review and familiarize yourself with Construction Manual Chapter 55.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hi Mike! I’ve been looking for a good answer to a question that I have, your profile name suggests you might just be the guy to ask! I very much would like to put a upcoming post frame building project on a 6ft frost protected foundation, 4 ft below, and 2 foot above grade. The building will be heated and cooled, and I just have not come across the best detail on how to insulate, protect the exterior insulation, and flash between the exterior steel and the foundation insulation. What is the best way to go about this to balance R-value, appearance, and durability that come with that 2ft of above grade foundation wall. Thank you for your time! CODY in WISCONSIN

DEAR CODY: In my humble opinion, foundation walls for post frame buildings defeat much of the cost savings with little or no added benefit. I will now step off my soap box….

You can achieve same (if not better) results by adding insulation board to inside of your wall. It also takes away protection and flashing challenges. Look at using Rockwool Comfortboard 80.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can any of your buildings be built where the back half of the building is suspended on poles…..because the ground slopes downhill? What about zoning? Do you check with my county to find out whether or not I can have a building? DAVID in WESTMINSTER

DEAR DAVID: Yes, some or all of your new Hansen Pole Building can be suspended on poles (basically a partial ‘stilt’ house). https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2017/09/stilt-houses/

While we do not check with your county to find out whether or not you can have a building, it is a very pain free process for you to confirm: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/01/your-barndominiums-planning-department/

 

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Footings, Pole Barn Design, Columns, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Post Frame Home, Trusses, Insulation, Concrete and tagged , , , , , , , , on by .

What to do When the Old Post Frame Garage Has Issues

What to do When the Old Post Frame Garage Has Issues

Welcome back from Tuesday’s posting. As you may recall, when my great-grandfather W.R. McDowell built his two-car Model A garage pre-World War II, it was 16 feet wide by 20 feet deep. This garage was supported by eight cedar poles on minimal footings.

Well….sure enough some of those cedar post footing settled. Some settled more than others, resulting 50 years later in what was appearing to be some sort of carnival fun house. Wood floor parking surface was up and down and the stick framed walls above had developed a serious lean.

By 1946, my great grandparents (W.R. being 74 and Mary Elenis 66) found hiking up and down stairs to be not as much to their liking (much like Mr. Lillequist 10 years before). They sold their cabin to their son Boyd and his wife Jerene.

44 years later, in 1990, Boyd and Jerene had reached their 80s. Having spent my summers at Newman Lake and having developed a strong affinity for it – they gifted this cabin to me, my wife and our young daughter Bailey.

I had recently sold my first business, in Oregon, and returned to Spokane. My intention was to remodel our cabin, so it could become our primary residence. To start with, something had to be done with its garage. Even had it remained structurally sound, while two Model A cars may have fit in it comfortably,  we needed more width and depth for two more modern vehicles.

My solution – build a new 22 foot wide by 24 foot deep post frame garage around what was there.

First step was to tear down the old garage to parking deck level.

A couple of trees were too close for comfort and had to be forcibly removed.

Once offending trees were removed, pressure preservative treated posts were set around outside of the existing floor (and a few through holes chainsaw cut through the floor).

After posts were in place, the old floor was removed and framing began. Being it was early December, in Northeast Washington State – we got to deal with snow.


In order to support weight of a concrete slab and vehicles 14 feet above ground, 2×14 #2 Douglas Fir floor joists were placed 12 inches on center, with 2×8 Tongue & Groove decking over top. Raised heel bonus room attic trusses with a 7/12 slope were utilized, in order to allow for a home office space above parking level.

On Super Bowl Sunday Eve of 1991 near tragedy struck our still under construction project. On Friday, our electrician had energized power. When wiring had been run, he had neglected to install protective steel plates at crucial points where sheetrock screws might penetrate wiring. One screw hit a wire in an attic space and smoldered for a day. Around midnight, one of our neighbors got up to get a drink of water and noticed flames coming out of our garage. Their quick thinking and fast response from our local fire department saved this building, with only minimal fire damage, but everything was coated with black soot.

Profuse quantities of Kilz™ were used, however a smoke smell still persisted. We added temperature controlled powered vents in attic spaces, with corresponding air intakes, in order to exhaust burn odors on warm days.


Note: smoke stains on siding above overhead doors and cutouts in endwall for ventilators.

As you may recall – there was some significant grade change at this site. Space below garage floor level, was utilized to create a studio apartment with over 400 square feet of space (current owners rent it out as an AirBNB https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/665906592425731485?source_impression_id=p3_1667315547_%2BXfm5XMqvopowtF%2B).

This entry was posted in Steel Roofing & Siding, Pole Barn Design, About The Pole Barn Guru, Constructing a Pole Building and tagged , , , , , , , on by .

A Post Frame Building at Newman Lake

A Post Frame Building at Newman Lake

In this mid-1980’s photo, from left-to-right are Margaret and Frank Rostead (Frank was best man when my Grandparents were married in 1933), my grandmother Jerene McDowell (b. 1910– d.2006) and a Model A garage built by Grandma Jerene’s father – W.C. McDowell.
Back to our story after some brief history….
Newman Lake is in Northeast Washington State, roughly some 20 miles East Northeast of downtown Spokane and just West of Idaho. It is Eastern Washington’s largest natural lake. Early area inhabitants were Indians who roamed this lake and hillsides for berries and game.
Later traders from Hudson’s Bay company constructed gardens at Newman Lake.
Before 1880’s, each summer, Newman Lake’s shady shores were covered with Indian encampments. Indians picked huckleberries, dried them and made them into pemmican for winter. Camas root was dried and ground into flour. Their main diet was meat – deer, peasant, grouse, rabbit and fish. Venison portions were jerked and dried for winter use.
These Indians returned each summer for many years, after white settlers began moving in.
Slipper Point (named when a white lady lost her slipper at a gathering there) is at an end to a long gradual ridge. Indians used this as a playground and a place to race. One time, at a gathering there, they were having their contests in archery and races. During one race, from ridge top to Slipper Point, a running Indian ran into a partially fallen, slivered and splintered tree.
A long splinter ran him through and killed him. Indians immediately stopped their games and left, thinking evil spirits had placed this splintered tree in their way to chase them away. Those who came back, refused to stay overnight.

William Newman, was from England. At 20, he sailed from Liverpool to New York City in 1858. After having served for five years with US Army’s 9th Infantry, Newman was selected as one of a 25 man Boundary Commission escort, in Washington Territory, where he first saw what later became Newman Lake.

Newman then settled on and farmed an area bordering Newman Lake’s southern portion, until passing in 1887. Just after 1880, white men began homesteading in this area.

Pioneers caught trout in nearby Liberty Lake and transplanted them to Newman. A federal government fish tank railroad car was parked at Moab, on Northern Pacific’s main line. In 1887, residents carried carp to Newman Lake in buckets.
Excursion trains from Spokane ran to Moab, where busses and stages took passengers three miles across split log roads to Newman Lake, where guests could stay at one of four busy hotels.
Early 1900’s found surveyors carving up lake front lots to sell to those wanting to build summer cabins. One such interested party was a Swede – Mr. Swanson. Swanson spent a summer camping in different locations all around Newman Lake. He told his good friend Olof Lilliequist he had found an exact perfect location.
When Swanson went to purchase his lot, he found his friend had purchased every lot along what became known as Swede Bay for $500, including Swanson’s lot. Swanson ended up paying Lillequist $500 for his lot!

Lillequist set out to build his cabin (to be named “Terrace Lodge”), immediately adjacent to his friend Swanson (but higher up his steeply sloped lot). He hired an alcoholic stone mason from Spokane – under a condition of sobriety! In 1909 a flat area was carved out and cornerstones were laid for a 36 foot wide by 20 foot deep cabin. Trenches for two foot thick native stone walls were dug – and stone set starting five feet below grade, with no mortar, and allowed to settle for two years before being grouted in.

Lillequist eventually tired of trips up and down stairs from cabin to beach. He built another cabin– this time shoreline and west of Terrace Lodge. In July 1936, he sold Terrace Lodge to my Great-Grandparents, William C. and Mary Elenis McDowell – grocers in nearby Greenacres.
Here it comes….
Despite a treacherous, winding and steeply sloping dirt access road, McDowell wanted to drive his Model A and park it in a garage when he came to Newman Lake.
A small, flat parking area had been carved out uphill from Terrace Lodge. W.C. poured a concrete wall along this parking area’s downhill, North edge and proceeded to attach a post frame “stilt” garage to it. This two car garage was designed for Model A’s – so was 16 feet wide and 20 feet deep. Eight cedar trees we set on stone pads – two rows of four at 10 and 20 feet from the parking lot. This made for logs from eight to 12 feet in height, due to steep grade!
These logs (poles)were X braced to each other using full dimension, rough, green 2×4 from Eller’s Sawmill. Log tops were trimmed even, and 3 ply rough 2×8 beams were placed from concrete wall, across logs at 10’ to logs at 20’. Three layers of 2×12 decking then ran across beams – at 45 degrees both directions, then straight with building depth on top.
On top of this deck, walls were stick framed, trusses built by hand, 1×4 purlins placed and aluminum roofing was nailed on. Doors were eight foot wide bi-passing sliding barn doors.
These doors had been removed by my youth.
Come back Thursday to find out what happens to our post frame stilt garage.

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Building Your Own Pole Barn Trusses

Wants to Build His Own Pole Barn Trusses

Reader DANIEL in HAMPSHIRE writes:

“Good evening, I was wondering if I could ask for your help? I have a question regarding truss designs and truss spacing. I’m building a pole barn (50ft wide x 112ft long x 12ft tall). Prices of pole barn kits have skyrocketed just as much as steel buildings. Building this size 3 years ago would have cost a third of the price today. I’m building an indoor fish farm. If you like to know more of my back story you can visit www.steelheadsprings.com I don’t want to waste your time reading it here. I spent years collecting investors and putting up my whole life and it turned out its not enough. However, I found a solution, I must build it myself, I must build everything myself. I have good support here however I don’t have a specialist. Every time I speak to an engineer, they tell me it can’t be done. Right now my problem is trusses. Locally, each 3-ply 6x6x14 post columns retails anywhere between 400 and 500 dollars. I laminated mine for just under a $100. Steel brackets to mount said post columns into concrete with hardware retails around $125 each, I sourced a local shop to build mine for $40 each. Steel sheathing for walls and roof was sourced from social media from an out of business contractor for .30$ on the dollar. Currently trusses are outrageously priced! The few local places are pricing them anywhere between $600 and $900 for the 40-footer and between $800 and $1300 for the 50-footer. One building needs 15 trusses and another two need 8 trusses each. Prices just keep going up, so I’m forced to build the trusses myself. So, I turned to the web. I’ve been educating myself on designs and ideal styles that would suit my buildings.  Already have the concrete columns pored. Pillars are 18-inch diameter and 50-inch deep. Brackets are already installed at 8ft on center. I would like to use the saddle style truss and wedge it at the top. I have 20 inches of middle board notched out to accommodate a saddle truss. I want a 4/12 pitch with 8ft o.c. truss spacing and 2ft o.c. purlin spacing. Because I’m going 8ft o.c. truss spacing I must install the purlins upright on its edge. This works perfectly because it gives me plenty of room for insulation to be installed flush with the steel. I have no overhangs and my heel is 10″. I found a company on the web (medeek designs). They design the geometry of the trusses. I basically plug in the lumber and the software does the rest. It designs the truss and with a simple click of the mouse I can get exact dimensions of my tc, bc and the webbing. However, it does not explain what size of lumber I should use to achieve the desired clear span goal. I must go to an online retailer and look up a truss and copy their design to plug in the information. I need your help; my land is in an unincorporated county which basically allows me to do anything that I want. I just must follow simple rules with foundation and snow/wind loads. Top Chord live load is 30psf, Top Chord dead load is 7psf, Bottom Chord live load is zero and Bottom Chord dead load is 10psf. I chose 12ft height because it is just tall enough for my needs and it’s sturdy enough for the wind and snow loads. I almost built 4-ply columns, but I decided to go with three because I would obtain the same rigidity with girts spacing of 24-inches instead of 36-inches. I built a 20-ton gusset plate press, and I used the software to build a sample truss. I tested it to the best of my abilities, and it stood its ground. I watched a few videos where some people installed wooden “gusset” plates as additional support over the steel plates. Some even used glue. I know that I want to over engineer this truss to make sure it stands the time. It leaves a good story for the upcoming generations about how we built this from the ground up. I still recall hearing stories from my grandfather and father how they both built their homes. I will attach a few pictures of the drawings that I have. Both 50-foot and 40-foot trusses should be double fink as this truss is rated for 40-60ft clear span. I was going to use 2×8 for both top chords and bottom chords with 2×4 for the webbing. The 40-footer truss isn’t the problem because the truss only has one cut in the bottom chord at the 20ft mid-point. The 50-footer truss is the big issue. If we assume that 2×8 lumber is strong enough for the construction, where should the bottom chord be spliced/connected as my common sense calls for a one 20ft middle section and two 15ft outer sections. If that is ok, what about the top chord, where should the 20ft board be extended? I’m so sorry for taking so much of your time, I hope this is enough information and I hope it makes sense. Can you please help? Thank you.” 

Mike the Pole Barn Guru:

Let’s start with the disclaimer at www.medeek.com:

The truss designs produced herein are for initial design and estimating purposes only. The calculations and drawings presented do not constitute a fully engineered truss design. The truss manufacturer will calculate final loads, metal plate sizing, member sizing, webs and chord deflections based on local climatic and/or seismic conditions. Wood truss construction drawings shall be prepared by a registered and licensed engineer as per IRC 2012 Sec. R802.10.2 and designed according to the minimum requirements of ANSI/TPI 1-2007. The truss designs and calculations provided by this online tool are for educational and illustrative purposes only. Medeek Design assumes no liability or loss for any designs presented and does not guarantee fitness for use.

Moving forward, Building Codes and ANSI/TPI have had several changes since Medeek put this information out. Most jurisdictions are using 2018 or 2021 versions of Codes and ANSI/TPI 1-2016.

I have previously opined in regards to site built trusses: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/12/site-built-roof-trusses/

I spent two decades in management or owning prefabricated metal connector plated wood truss plants. In my humble opinion – attempting to fabricate your own trusses of this magnitude is a foolhardy endeavor, for a plethora of reasons:

1) You want to build trusses only from a fully engineered design, specifying dimensions, grades and species of all wood members, as well as detailing dimensions of all connections. Besides dead and snow loads, design wind speed and exposure need to also be considered. Do NOT try to copy someone’s online design, as it is likely to prove inadequate.

2) It is unlikely you will be able to obtain lumber graded higher than #2, without a special order. A 40 or 50 foot clear span truss with your specified loads is going to need some high grade lumber for chords – expect to see MSR or MEL lumber (read more here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/12/machine-graded-lumber/).

3) You will be unable to purchase steel connector plates of sufficient size and thickness to connect members. This leaves you with having to invest in Struct 1 rated plywood to cut into gussets.

4) Should you have a failure from building your own trusses without an engineered design, your insurance company can easily get themselves out of having to pay your claim.

Per your statement, “I know that I want to over engineer this truss to make sure it stands the time.”

Do yourself a favor and find a way to invest in prefabricated trusses. It will give you peace-of-mind you will not get otherwise.

This entry was posted in About The Pole Barn Guru, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Financing, Beam Sizes, and a 3 Ply Truss Connection

Today the Pole barn Guru answers reader questions about available financing for a pole building, a required beam size for 20′ post spacing, and a small connection for 3 ply trusses.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Do you offer financing? Thanks. DERRICK in DETROIT

DEAR DERRICK: Yes, we offer a variety of financing options. Please visit www.HansenPoleBuildings.com/financing for details and to apply.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What size wooden beams would be required if I want to space the poles 20′ apart. 60′ trusses. 14′ to the bottom of the trusses. And would 10×10 columns be enough or do I have to go larger? Location is in southern, VA. Thanks, JAMES

DEAR JAMES: Column and/or truss carriers (wooden beams) sizes should be determined by the Registered Professional Engineer who is sealing your engineered structural building plans. Size and grade will be determined based upon a plethora of factors – design wind speed and exposure, roof slope, roof live and dead loads, roofing and siding materials, lateral soil bearing pressure, if there will be proper constrainment by a concrete slab on grade, etc.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: My truss designer has spec’d 3ply trusses on 8′ centers for a shingle roof with 2×6 hung purlins. I haven’t seen anyone describing the best way to attach these to a 6×6 post. If I notch them, there will only be 1 inch remaining at best and it seems bolting to the remaining 1 inch may not be worth it. What is best practice for this type of attachment to a post. PETER in CHAPEL HILL

DEAR PETER: Unless your building has a very wide clearspan, or some huge dead loads (or perhaps a bonus room) a three ply truss seems strangely unusual. You might want to reach out to other possible truss manufacturers to see if you can get a two ply design. While I have seen three ply trusses notched in 4-1/2 inches approved by engineers, if indeed this is your final truss design solution, you should confirm connection adequacy by reaching out to your building’s Engineer of Record.

 

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4×4 or Double 2×4 Bay Roof Purlins?

4×4 or Double 2×4 for 12’ Bay Roof Purlins?

Reader JOHN in HUNTSVILLE writes:

“If you have trusses spaced at 12 feet, can a 4x4x12 or two 2x4x12’s span the distance given the minimal snow loads in Arkansas? I know this is question #2 but what kind of joist hangers do you use (Simpson Number or equivalent) for purlin attachment to trusses?”

We typically would use 2×6 #2 on edge for these recessed (between truss pairs) roof purlins. Here are the calculations:

Assumptions:

Roof slope = 4:12 (18.435° roof angle)
Trusses spaced 12-ft. o.c.
Purlin span = 11.75-ft.
Purlin spacing = 24 in.
Purlin size 2″ x 6″ #2
Roof steel dead load = 0.63 psf steel American Building Components catalogue
Roof lumber dead load = 62.4 pcf * 0.55 lbs/ft.3 / (1 + 0.55 lbs/ft.3 * 0.009 * 0.19) * (1 + 0.0019) * 1.5″ / 12 in./ft. * 5.5″ / 12 in./ft. * (12′ – 3″ / 12 in./ft.) / 12′ / (24″ / 12 in./ft.) psf in purlin weight based on 0.55 G NDS = 0.963 psf
Total purlin dead load = 1.593 psf
Check for gravity loads

Bending Stresses

Fb: allowable bending pressure
Fb‘ = Fb * CD * CM * Ct * CL * CF * Cfu * Ci * Cr
CD: load duration factor
CD = 1.25 NDS 2.3.2
CM: wet service factor
CM = 1 because purlins are protected from moisture by roof
Ct: temperature factor
Ct = 1 NDS 2.3.3
CL: beam stability factor
CL = 1 NDS 4.4.1
CF: size factor
CF = 1 (not applicable to SYP)
Cfu: flat use factor
Cfu = 1 NDS Supplement table 4A
Ci: incising factor
Ci = 1 NDS 4.3.8
Cr: repetitive member factor
Cr = 1.15 NDS 4.3.9
Fb =1000 psi NDS Supplement Table 4-A
Fb‘ = 1000 psi * 1.25 * 1 * 1 * 1 * 1 * 1 * 1 * 1.15
Fb‘ = 1437.5 psi

fb: bending stress from roof live/dead loads
fb = (purlin_dead_load + Lr) * spacing / 12 * cos(θ) / 12 * (sf * 12 – 3)2 / 8 * 6 / b / d2 * cos(θ)
Lr = 20 psf using the appropriate load calculated above
fb = 21.593 psf * 24″ / 12 in./ft. * cos(18.435) / 12 in./ft. * (12′ * 12 in./ft. – 3″)2 / 8 * 6 / 1.5″ / 5.5″2 * cos(18.435)
fb = 1060 psi ≤ 1437.5 psi; stressed to 73.7 %

Deflection

Δallow: allowable deflection
Δallow = l / 180 IBC table 1604.3
l = 141″
Δallow = 141″ / 180
Δallow = 0.783″
Δmax: maximum deflection
Δmax = 5 * Lr * spacing * cos(θ * π / 180) * (sf * 12 – 3)4 / 384 / E / I from http://www.awc.org/pdf/DA6-BeamFormulas.pdf p.4
E: Modulus of Elasticity
E = 1400000 psi NDS Supplement
I: moment of inertia
I = b * d3 / 12
I = 1.5″ * 5.5″3 / 12
I = 20.796875 in.4
Δmax = 5 * 20 psf / 144 psi/psf * 24″ * cos(18.435° * 3.14159 / 180) * (12′ * 12 in./ft. – 3″)4 / 384 / 1400000 psi / 20.796875 in.4
Δmax = 0.559″ ≤ 0.783″

2×4 #2 and 4×4 #2 Southern Pine have Fb values of 1100

Sm (Section Modulus) of a 2×6 is 7.5625; (2) 2×4 nailed together would be 1.5″ width x 3.5″ depth^2 x 2 members = 6.125 I would = 10.71875; 4×4 would be 7.146 with I = 12.5052

The (2) 2×4 would be stressed to 82.7% in bending however Δmax = 1.085″ so would fail due to being over deflection limits

How about a 4×4? 70.9% in bending Δmax = 0.9296″ so would also fail due to being over deflection limits

For our 2×6 purlins, we specify a Simpson LU26

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses and tagged , , , , , on by .

Framing Loads, Footing Pads, and a Pole Barn Home

This Wednesday the Pole Barn Guru kicks off 2022 with reader questions about framing loads using heavy duty steel roof trusses, a stone siding wainscot, and lap siding. Mike then addresses questions about footing pads, and finally creating a pole barn home.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am planning to build a pole barn 36×40 on 10’ centers with heavy duty steel roof trusses on 6×6 posts. The wall height will be 10’ and I would like to have 3’ faux stone for siding at the bottom with the rest of the siding hardi plank cement board. Would the weight be too much for a traditional pole barn style framing? NICK in CROSBY

DEAR NICK: Unless you are using some sort of heavier duty steel roof trusses much more significant than typical welded up ones, they are generally not capable of carrying any sort of a roof snow load – it won’t make any difference in Texas, but would further North.

It is likely your building’s engineer will require wall girts bookshelf style in order to make them stiff enough to meet Code deflection criteria for deflection (walls have to be much stiffer when using sidings other than steel). He or she should also be verifying diameter of footings under each column will be sufficient to support weight being added. You are making a significant investment here, I would hate to see your hard earned dollars go for naught due to under engineering.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: You all have an article on the use of Footing Pads.  https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/05/footingpad/
Are you all having luck with these?  Concrete is a little sky high right now.  Just trying to find people / companies that have utilized these and the pros and the cons! FRAN in NORMAN

DEAR FRAN: Our engineers typically detail bottom of roof supporting column holes with an eight inch thick concrete footing mono poured with 10 inches of concrete up each side of columns, resulting in a total depth of pour of 18 inches.

With a 24 inch diameter hole (largest size footing pads are manufactures in), this pour would take 4.71 cubic feet of concrete (just under 1/5th of a yard), ignore amount of concrete displaced by column itself. At $200 per yard, this would equate to under $40 per hole. To compare, a 24 inch diameter Footing Pad sells for $64.99, making poured concrete both less expensive as well as a design solution capable of resisting column uplift.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have single “shed roof” plans that I want to use on my owned Washington state property, although I do not have an architect. I have attached a drawing of the home. Is it possible to work with Hansen to create a pole barn home. I want to use metal roofing and siding. Thank you STACIE in LEAVENWORTH

DEAR STACIE: In most instances, homes do not require an architect’s investment. Our team can work with you to customize and/or tweak drawings you have sent to best meet your wants and needs.

Here are some considerations:

Plan tips to consider:

Direction of access – driveways are not cheap and shortest distance between two points is a straight line.
Curb appeal – what will people see when they drive up? This may not be important to you, however some day someone will try to resell your barndominium.

Is there an appealing view?

North-south alignment – place no or few windows on north walls, but lots of windows on south wall. Roof overhangs on south wall should provide shade to windows from mid-day summer sun.

Is there a slope on your building site?

Work from inside out – do not try to fit your wants and needs within a pre-ordained box just because someone said using a “standard” size might be cheaper. Differences in dimensions from “standard” are pennies per square foot, not dollars.

Popular home spaces and sizes need to be determined:  https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/room-in-a-barndominium/ and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/09/the-first-tool-to-construct-your-own-barndominium/.

With all of this in mind, order your custom designed floor plans here: http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/post-frame-floor-plans/?fbclid=IwAR2ta5IFSxrltv5eAyBVmg-JUsoPfy9hbWtP86svOTPfG1q5pGmfhA7yd5Q

Our team will be reaching out to you as well.

 

 

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Homes, Pole Barn Planning, Post Frame Home, Trusses, Barndominium, Concrete, Concrete Cookie, Footings, Alternate Siding, Pole Barn Questions, Building Styles and Designs, Roofing Materials and tagged , , , , , , on by .

You Can Do It!

You Can Do It!

Screamed headlines of my first ever print display ad for pole barn kits in 1981!

I have included below a snippet from one of my first blog posts from 10 years ago:

“In the summer of 1979, home interest rates began to rise. Idaho had a usury limit, home mortgages stopped in Idaho. I set out looking for other opportunities and ended up in Salem, Oregon.

I was offered the position of truss plant manager at Lucas Plywood and Lumber, in August 1979. It would be a smooth transition, as the prior manager would be there for a month or so to ease me into the system. At first glance, the operation was frightening. I was used to trusses being manufactured using hydraulic presses to embed the steel plates into the trusses, not teams of workers banging them in with hammers and pushing them through a set of “rollers”. Even more frightening was when I discovered all the lumber being used was green (I had no idea trusses were built anywhere with lumber which was not kiln dried). But my total heart failure nearly occurred when I found they were using lumber graded as Standard and better for truss chords, as someone had convinced them it was the same as #2 and better. Not even close! Well, the previous plant manager packed up at noon of the first day saying, “Good luck, son”. My first several months were spent on educating the troops and introducing dry lumber, both with some successes. The lumber sales team was my age as well, which helped to gain eager learners. I taught them how to do lumber lists from building plans, so they could quote framing packages.

In January 1980, the housing crunch I had fled from in Idaho hit Oregon. My truss plant, which typically produced 8 to 10 buildings worth of trusses a day, had only four orders in the entire month! Not good – however there was a single common denominator among those four orders, they were all for pole barn trusses. I didn’t have the slightest idea what a pole barn was, but it was time to find out. I picked the brain of a long time pole barn builder, George Evanovich, who explained the basics to me.

Now I have to confess, I was brought up with, “Wood is good”, so the entire concept of using roll formed steel for roofing and siding was a novel experience for me. Having convinced myself it had its place, we figured out material prices for some fairly typical pole barns and ran ads selling building kits. The response was overwhelming. By April, we were not only running the truss plant full time again (producing primarily pole barn trusses), we had also hired George and his two crews to construct buildings for our clients. By June, the truss plant was operating double shifts, just to keep up with the volume.”

For those of you interested, the full text of this post can be found here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/06/theres-no-education-like-real-life-business-experience/

Anyhow, back on point, there were an incredible number of people totally willing to undertake erection of their own pole barns. Even more amazing is – any of them turned out! We provided absolutely no instructions and “plans” (I use this term lightly) were drawn by hand on a few sheets of 8-1/2” x 11” white copy paper.

Moving forward four decades in time, Hansen Pole Building kits have greatly evolved, and not just in quality, benefits and features – but in ease of assembly for an average D-I-Yer.

Your new Hansen Pole Buildings’ kit is designed for you (an average physically capable person, who can and will read and follow instructions), to successfully construct your own beautiful building shell (and most of our clients do DIY – saving tens of thousands of dollars). We’ve had clients ranging from septuagenarians to fathers bonding with their teenage daughters erect their own buildings, so chances are – you can as well!

Your new building investment includes full multi-page 24” x 36” engineer sealed structural blueprints detailing locations and attachments of every piece (as well as suitable for obtaining Building Permits), the industry’s best, fully illustrated, step-by-step installation manual, and unlimited technical support from people who have actually built post frame buildings. Even better – it includes our industry leading Limited Lifetime Structural warranty!

Yes – You CAN do it!

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Barndominium, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Lumber, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Homes, About The Pole Barn Guru, Post Frame Home and tagged , , , , , , , , on by .

Switching Post Sizes, Structure Length, and Fire Damage

This week’s ask the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about switching post sizes from a 6×6’s to 6×4’s, how long a structure can be built with 15 trusses with 2×4 chords, and if it is possible to rebuild on a slab that was part of a fire loss.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am about to buy my post for a residential post barn using 6 x 6 x 12 post in Sottsburg, Indiana. A neighbor suggested instead of using 6 x 6 x 12, to use 4 x 6 x 12 in substitution for some of the post that would be none corner or door support post. My question would be can it be done and meet building code being it will not have an attack or vaulted ceilings? LEVIA in SCOTTSBURG

DEAR LEVIA: In most instances a 4×6 #2 will be stronger than a 6×6, however switching out columns should only be done with approval from your engineer who sealed your building plans.

For extended reading on this subject: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/04/when-size-or-lack-thereof-matters/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: 2 x 4 Truss spacing question, how long do you advise to build a Pole barn with 15pcs of 2 x 4 x 24′ engineered trusses? 🙂 The fires got 8 of them so I’m refiguring my length, but wanted some help on the truss spacing? Thanks, MARSHALL in PORTLAND

DEAR MARSHALL: The engineered truss drawings will provide maximum on center spacing of trusses. With 2×4 chords, I would suspect this to be 24 inches. With 15 pieces, you could build a 28 foot length building.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m working on a fire loss to a post frame building that was converted to multi-unit apartments. The building shell is post frame on slab with interior walls framed. My question is could we demo the building saving the slab rebuild utilizing standard residential stud wall and truss framing. Thanks CHRIS in FLOYDS KNOBS

DEAR CHRIS: Heat from a fire can result in concrete chemical composition breakdown. Other effects include concrete spalling, seen as large pits. Concrete may have protected substrates below, but further investigation is probably required. Water used on fire can also adversely affect soils below. Have an engineer familiar with concrete test for strength. Sometimes it may look like concrete is okay, but then later it begins to crumble.

Outside of this, slabs for post frame buildings do not have continuous footings and stem walls, or edges thick enough to provide protection from frost heave and to support imposed loads from building dead weight and imposed loads.

 

This entry was posted in Columns, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Concrete, Rebuilding Structures, Building Interior, Professional Engineer and tagged , , , , , , , on by .

Cupola Sizes, Insulation for a Ceiling, and Structural Pieces

This week the Pole Barn Guru tackles reader questions about cupola sizes, the proper way to insulate a shed ceiling, and a structural materials question.

CupolaDEAR POLE BARN GURU: What base size and height is correct for a cupolas for a 32’ wide by 36’ long by 35-40’ high with a 10 over 12 pitch roof? Thank you for your answer. NANCY in SPENCER

DEAR NANCY: This may answer some of your questions: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/09/cupola/. As to actual height of your cupola(s) – this is totally subjective based upon what you feel looks best.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I’m desperately trying to figure out the proper way to insulate my pole shed ceiling. The Purlins run parallel rather than peak to eves. And there are no soffits or vents to be had. I have metal roofing with fiberglass roll insulation between roofing and purlins that has the vapor barrier backing. I’m afraid to slice holes in this vapor barrier as it may cause the metal roofing to condensate. My purlins are conducting cold temps in winter and when the heat hits them, they grow mold in some places as they’re very cold – or hot in the summer. Can I install the paper back fiberglass between purlins and be okay? I’m hoping would slow moisture down. but allow it to dry as well. IDK I’m in the NW mountains of Oregon, we do get low temps and snow and the shop is mildly heated in winter. I can’t afford to redo the roof or go with blown in foam. Is there another way? Can I use fiberglass batting safely? My end goal is to have tin roofing on the ceiling, is that okay? Sorry to bother you with such a common question but I haven’t found anyone with my exact issue. Thanks so much for your time and I sincerely hope to hear from you, big fan, DAVE in GALES CREEK

DEAR DAVE: Appreciate your being a big fan – thank you!

No, you cannot/should not install paper (kraft faced) backed fiberglass insulation between your building’s roof purlins. This would create a system with two vapor barriers, trapping moisture between them. Start by looking to what is probably your source of moisture – your concrete floor. If you do not have a well-sealed vapor barrier underneath it, use a sealant on top of your concrete to reduce moisture coming up through your slab. After you have your steel ceiling in place, blow in fiberglass insulation above it, and install vents in each gable end and under your ridge cap.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What is the type of steel (cold roll, stainless, etc.) used and the thickness of the trusses and main poles holding the structure up. ERIC in PAHRUMP

DEAR ERIC: 40 years ago I provided a post frame building kit package for a tire dealer in Pahrump!

Most steel roofing and siding is cold roll formed. These panels most typically have SMP paint (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/05/smp/) over a galvanized or galvalume substrate. There are Building Code minimum requirements for residential steel roofing substrates (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/11/minimum-steel-substrate-coating/). Hansen Pole Buildings use two-ply (for interior spans) 1-1/2″ width (2x lumber) chords and webs for prefabricated roof trusses, assembled with 16, 18 or 20 gauge galvanized steel pressed in connector plates. Plate thickness is determined by truss engineers to meet tension requirements. Main roof supporting members may be either glulaminated or solid sawn timbers, depending upon eave heights, roof slope, applied wind and/or snow loads, dead weight of roof assembly and availability of materials in a given market. Actual sizing will be determined by our third-party engineers.

 

This entry was posted in Insulation, Trusses, Pole Barn Questions, Ventilation, Pole Barn Design, Building Interior, Building Styles and Designs, Roofing Materials, Constructing a Pole Building, Professional Engineer, Pole Building How To Guides, Pole Barn Structure, Lumber and tagged , , , , , , , , , on by .

Builder Warranty Example

Example Builder Warranty

Disclaimer – this and subsequent articles on this subject are not intended to be legal advice, merely an example for discussions between you and your legal advisor.

I cannot express strongly enough how important to both builders and their clients to have a written warranty in any agreement. 

WARRANTIES: There is no warranty applicable to the building and is expressly in lieu of all other warranties available under any State or Federal laws, expressed or implied, including any warranty of all labor, material, product and taxes will be paid for and there will be no potential lien claim against Purchaser’s property upon completion of the work and following final payment by Purchaser to Seller.

Products supplied by third party suppliers, manufacturers and sub-contractors to the project are warranted only to the extent that the suppliers and manufacturers of those products provide a warranty.

In the event that a defect is discovered in one of these products, Seller will assist Purchaser in securing repair or replacement of these products under the warranty provided by the third party supplier or manufacturer. Warranty work is work which was correctly and completely done initially, but becomes non-operational or dysfunctional following occupancy or use by Purchaser. No retainage or holdback will be allowed for warranty work.  

Seller expressly warrants to the original noncommercial purchaser(s) and only the original purchasers.  

That if any part of a Seller constructed post frame building, as covered by this warranty, proves to be defective due to materials or workmanship, under normal use and service, for two (2) years, that defective part will be repaired or replaced, subject to the terms and conditions contained in this Warranty.

Seller hereby assigns to Purchaser all rights under manufacturer’s warranties. Defects in items covered in manufacturer’s warranties are excluded from coverage of this limited warranty, and Purchaser should follow the procedures in the manufacturer’s warranties if defects appear in these items. 

 For ten (10) years.

Any solid sawn or glu-laminated (pressure treated to a minimum UC-4B) structural columns that fail due to decay or insect damage, unless said column has been exposed to animal wastes.

The original building roof structure, if damaged directly by snow loads because of the failure of any prefabricated roof truss or trusses to meet design specification. Subjecting your roof system to greater loads than those set out on the face of this Agreement, any unspecified ceiling loads, or modifying the trusses in any way voids all Warranties.

Any major structural defects which are defined as being an actual defect in a load-bearing portion of the building which seriously impairs its load-bearing function to the extent that the building is unsafe. For purposes of this definition, the following items compromise the structure of the building:

  1. Load bearing columns,
  2. Floor or ceiling joists,
  3. Beam, trusses and rafters.

For Two  (2) Years:

Any roof leaks due to defects in material or workmanship, expressly excepting where the building has been connected to an adjoining structure, in roof valleys, or at roof slope changes to which cases, no warranty applies. 

Any other building parts which prove to be defective in material or workmanship.

This warranty period shall commence on the date of the acceptance of the building by the Purchase or Purchaser’s occupancy of the building, whichever comes first.

This warranty contained wherein is void in situations where:

  1. Installation is not made in accordance with the instructions supplied by Hansen Buildings.
  2. The actual operation or use of the product varies from the recommended operation or intended use.
  3. There is a malfunction or defect resulting from or worsened by misuse, negligence, accidents, lack of or improper performance of required maintenance by the original purchaser.
  4. The building is altered or added onto, unless by Seller.
  5. Seller is not notified within twenty four (24) hours of problems due to snow loads.
  6. Purchaser fails to take timely action to or damage.
  7. Anyone other than Seller’s employees or agents or subcontractors have been on the building roof.
  8. Purchaser fails to make final payment per terms of sale.

Equipment such as fans, HVAC, gutters, downspouts, walk door locksets, other equipment not manufactured by Seller, site work, concrete, doors, windows, interior finishes, mechanical or electrical systems are excluded from this warranty.

The Purchaser expressly agrees to fully and timely pursue all available remedies under any applicable insurance agreement before making claim under this warranty.

In the event Seller repairs, replaces or pays the cost of repairing or replacing any defect covered in this warranty for which Purchaser is covered by insurance or a warranty provided by another party. Purchaser must assign proceeds of such insurance or other warranty to Seller, to the extent of the cost to Seller, of such repair or replacement.

Any claims for defects under warranty must be submitted in writing to Seller within the warranty period and promptly after discovery of the claimed defect, describing the defect claimed and date of building completion, before Seller is responsible for correction of that defect. Written notice of a defect must be received by Seller prior to the expiration of the warranty on that defect and no action at law or in equity may be brought by Purchaser against Seller, for failure to remedy or repair any defect about which Seller has not received timely notice in writing.

Purchaser must provide access to Seller, during normal business hours to inspect the defect reported and, if necessary, to take corrective action. A reasonable time should be allowed for inspection purposes. If, after inspection, Seller agrees, at its sole option to repair or replace only the defective materials or workmanship within the first three months from date of building completion at NO COST to the Purchaser. Thereafter Seller shall assume the cost of material and labor for any warranty work upon advance payment by the Purchaser of a one hundred dollar service payment for each incident under this warranty. The obligation of Seller, under this warranty, shall be performed only by persons designated and compensated by Seller for that purpose, and is subject to all other provisions of this warranty.

The provisions of this Warranty are the full and complete warranty policy extended by Seller, and are expressly in lieu of all other warranties, expressed or implied, including any warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. These warranties may not be transferred or assigned. The liability of Seller shall not exceed the cost to Seller for repairing or replacing damaged or defective material or workmanship, as provided above, during the warranty period. 

THE WARRANTY STATEMENTS CONTAINED IN THIS LIMITED WARRANTY SET FORTH THE ONLY EXPRESS WARRANTIES EXTENDED BY SELLER FOR ITS BUILDING AND THE PROVISIONS HEREOF SHALL CONSTITUTE THE PURCHASERS EXCLUSIVE REMEDY FOR BREACH OF THIS WARRANTY. IN NO EVENT WILL SELLER BE LIABLE TO THE PURCHASER FOR INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OF ANY KIND FOR BREACH OF AN EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY ON THE BUILDING; PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY , OR ECONOMIC LOSS IF OCCASIONED BY SELLER’S NEGLIGENCE, EVEN IF SELLER HAS BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. 

Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state. 

Purchaser shall promptly contact Seller’s warranty department regarding any disputes involving this Agreement.

Seller and Purchaser agree that this limited warranty on the building is in lieu if all warranties of ability or workmanlike construction or any other warranties, express or implied, to which Purchaser might be entitled, except as to consumer products. No employee, subcontractor, or agent of Seller has the authority to change the terms of this warranty.

This entry was posted in Roofing Materials, Pole Barn Planning, Steel Roofing & Siding, Building Contractor, Trusses, Rebuilding Structures, Columns, Lumber and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Long-Span Truss Installation Guidance for Post-Frame

Long-Span Truss Installation Guidance for Post-Frame
Originally published by: Construction Magazine Network(link is external) — January 18, 2021
The following article was produced and published by the source linked to above, who is solely responsible for its content. Hansen Pole Buildings, LLC is publishing this story to raise awareness of information publicly available online and does not verify the accuracy of the author’s claims. As a consequence, Hansen Pole Buildings, LLC cannot vouch for the validity of any facts, claims or opinions made in the article.
Editor’s Note: The article below is the first in a ten-part Structural Building Components Association series on long-span truss installation guidance specific to the post-frame industry, all of which will be published in Frame Building News(link is external).
By Sean Shields, With Contributions by Jim Vogt, P.E.

If you’ve installed long-span wood roof trusses long enough, you’ve likely experienced the “spaghetti” effect, where the truss members bend or buckle out of plane and make the truss very difficult to handle. It’s one thing if it happens while you’re hoisting a single truss into place. It’s quite another when a group of trusses are already installed and they all start to flex out of plane together!

Why does it happen? Is it because they were designed wrong? Is it because they were manufactured incorrectly? Is it because they’re “cheap” or made with inferior raw materials? These are common questions and accusations, but they aren’t accurate. This article, and the series it kicks off, will look at how trusses are designed to function in the structural framework of a building, and why it’s so essential to handle these structural components correctly on the job site to avoid the “spaghetti” effect and other issues.

How Trusses Work
Since their invention in 1952, metal plate-connected wood roof trusses have proven themselves to be the most economical and material-efficient structural framing solution for many of today’s buildings. Their superior performance is due to the triangulation of the chords and webs, and their subsequent ability to efficiently transfer loads applied to the top or bottom chords of a truss to its bearing locations.

Further, the ability of the metal connector plates to efficiently connect the chord and web members together, and transfer the member forces across the joints, are what has driven the market to replace traditional stick-framing methods with trusses in almost 80% of all wood roof structures in North America.

It’s important to note, however, that trusses are designed to only support loads applied within a specific, typically vertical, plane. Trusses are narrow in relation to their depth and span and thus require lateral support. Without this lateral support, the truss, or a portion of its members, will buckle out-of-plane (i.e. lateral bending) under far less load than the truss is designed to resist when applied in an unintended manner. This lateral bending increases as the truss span lengthens, which explains why it is more difficult to keep longer span trusses in plane throughout the installation process. Once a truss is subject to loads (even gravity loads) outside of those planes it is specifically designed to support, you have potential to experience the “spaghetti” effect.

How Trusses Are Made
From a manufacturing standpoint, the most efficient way to produce a roof truss is in the horizontal position. If you haven’t been inside a truss manufacturing facility before, touring one would be well worth your time. You’ll witness how the individual wood members are cut and assembled on large tables, the plates are then tacked in place, and then a large press embeds the plates evenly. After the truss is assembled, it’s typically put on a conveyor that takes it out into the yard where each truss is stacked and bundled with trusses of the same or similar size for a particular job. These bundles are then picked up by forklift and placed on the trailer of a truck to be transported to the job site.

All of this is to emphasize that while the trusses are typically manufactured in a horizontal orientation, they are minimally handled as individual trusses in this orientation. Why? Again, because metal plate-connected wood trusses have significantly reduced strength while oriented flatwise and lateral bending can easily cause damage. Banding the trusses together provides greater rigidity to the bundle of trusses and minimizes out-of-plane bending.

Handling Trusses on the Job Site
The effects of banding groups of trusses is beneficial for the manufacturer, but it doesn’t help the installer who is tasked with handling individual trusses during installation. What can be done to minimize lateral bending on individual trusses in the field? Here are three best practices:
First, talk with whomever is delivering the trusses to the job site. The next article in this series will address site preparation and best practices for placement and storage, but it’s important to note that one of the best ways to minimize lateral bending is to limit the amount each truss is handled. Ensuring the trusses are delivered on the job site and off-loaded to a location optimal for installation requires planning and good communication. Ideally, this happens before the truck shows up on site.

Second, make sure the equipment you are using to lift the trusses into place is adequate for the job. An upcoming article will specifically cover best practices for different kinds of equipment. In this context, the key element is ensuring that the lifting capacity and reach of the equipment far exceeds the weight of the trusses you are installing and distance the machinery extends to place each truss.

When picking up individual trusses, maneuver them in the vertical, or in-plane, position as much as possible, taking special care to minimize lateral bending. When lifting a truss off the ground, it’s best to have more than one pick point so the weight is distributed between two or more points, as opposed to being concentrated in one point at or near the peak. Longer span trusses require multiple pick points as well as “strongbacking” of adequate length and stiffness to keep the truss from deflecting out of plane.

Third, adequately brace the first truss installed to ground bracing and all subsequent trusses to it and each other to ensure the trusses remain in-plane throughout the installation process.

Consequences of Lateral Bending
The primary purpose of roof trusses are to provide structural resistance to anticipated loads over the life of the structure. This may seem basic, but it’s vital to understand the implications of that statement. Again, all of the loads a truss is designed to resist are within the plane of the truss. The truss is not designed to resist or withstand deflection out-of-plane. When this occurs, significant damage can occur to one or more joints in a truss.

Sometimes the damage is evident during installation. A web member or chord may crack or break. A metal connector plate may begin to pull out of the wood or even come off. Installers can spot this kind of damage without great difficulty and an appropriate repair can be provided and implemented in the field. In some cases, however, the damage caused by lateral bending may not be immediately evident. This can lead to unexpected performance issues later on in the life of the building. At that point, repairs or replacement can cause serious headaches for the building owner.

The Bottom Line
To the greatest extent possible, avoid lateral bending of trusses during the installation process. This can cause significant damage to a truss, sometimes in ways that are not readily apparent. To minimize the potential for lateral bending, make sure the trusses are delivered to a location on the job site that reduces necessary handling, only use equipment that allows you to move individual trusses in a plumb and upright position and enable multiple pick points, and adequately brace trusses during installation to ensure they remain in-plane.

This entry was posted in Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Shouse, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Professional Engineer and tagged , , , , , , , , , on by .

Steeply Sloped Post Frame Roofs

With fully engineered post frame buildings becoming a popular barndominium design solution, future home owners are looking for more variety in their builds.

Loyal reader KEITH in MADISON is one of these and writes:

“Thanks very much for all the work you do to make this website such a treasure trove of information!

Online, I see almost exclusively 4/12 pitch post frame trusses, even on residential builds. Why is that? Is it possible to have, say, a 12/12 pitch roof with all the existing benefits of post-frame (ease of construction, affordability, engineered trusses, etc.)?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:
Thank you for your kind words, they are appreciated!
In most instances a 4/12 slope is a least expensive design solution. Lesser slopes require larger or higher graded members and pressed steel connector plates, steeper slopes often allow for smaller components, however they are greater in length and at a certain point cause challenges in fabrication and shipping. Many truss manufacturers are limited to trusses with a 12 foot overall height, due to their equipment. Taller trusses can require a piggyback (or cap) to create requested profiles. As slope increases, more roof purlins are needed and both roof and endwall steel lengths increase.

A consideration many miss – is design of wall columns is impacted by them having to carry wind against roof surfaces. As your roof grows in height, loads can increase significantly (but not prohibitively expensively).

By maintaining a single slope for an option, makes for pricing very simple for providers lacking in sophisticated engineering design and pricing software.

With all of this said, our system can do any slope you desire – even down to fractions of a degree of slope. My own personal first post frame shouse (shop/house) was done with 7/12 slope trusses to match an existing cabin on our property. Currently, we live in a post frame barndominium using gambrel trusses where slopes are 6/12 and 24/12. When it comes down to it – if you can dream it, chances are excellent we can provide a structurally sound design solution for your new building.

This entry was posted in Shouse, Pole Barn Design, About The Pole Barn Guru, Roofing Materials, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Post Frame Home, Barndominium, Pole Barn Questions and tagged , , , , on by .

A Hay Barn Challenge

Seemingly every small town in America has one or more pole barn ‘builders’. Many of them are more jack-of-all-trades and masters of none. They frame a few houses, do a deck or two, maybe some interior remodels in winter months and along with this – a handful of pole barns.

Sadly, in my humble opinion, many jurisdictions have minimal (or no) permitting requirements for pole barns. This practice is extended even further when it comes to pole barns deemed to be for agricultural purposes.

Combine lack of structural knowledge (plus pooh pooing any need for an engineer) by ‘builders’ as mentioned above with not needing a permit and situations arise rife with a potential for possible calamity.

Reader KATHY in KIMBALL writes:

“We have a ranch in western Nebraska. There are two hay barns on the ranch, each is 64’x44′ with 20 foot from ground to bottom of trusses. These are constructed with the trusses on 4 foot centers on double top plate and V bracing. The side walls are fully sheeted and the end walls are open. Both hay barns are level and in good shape. However, we were loading hay out of one of the barns recently, with wind gusts north of 40 MPH and we could see the trusses moving slightly with the wind, the bottom of the columns were stable as they are encased in concrete.

My questions are: Would it add significant support to build an end wall on one end of each of these barns. If so, can Hansen provide the materials and tech support to build these end walls?

Is there anything else we can do to add strength and stability to these hay barns?”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru replies:
Post frame (pole) buildings work much like unibody cars and jet aircraft, it is their skin’s strength holding everything together. Here is a home experiment you can do to get a better idea (as well as an extended read): https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/12/lateral-wind-loads/

Your hay barns happen to be a worst case scenario when it comes to sound structural design of a post frame building: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/03/ends-open-pole-barn-challenge/

What these buildings really need is to have both endwalls at least partially (if not fully) enclosed from eave to ground. If this is something you would entertain, we could connect you directly with one of our third-party independent engineers to determine if there is a practical solution to your situation.

Meanwhile, make sure your buildings have good replacement value insurance coverage and avoid being anywhere near them if wind speeds are at or beyond what you have already mentioned as causing your concerns.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Structure, Building Contractor, Trusses, Footings, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design and tagged , , , , , , , on by .

Unseen Danger of Hiring a Building Contractor

Earlier this year I had written about a post frame building construction site incident: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/07/safely-erecting-post-frame-buildings/. As we live in an overly litigious society, there is yet more to this story:

“A Theresa man injured when roof trusses at a construction site gave way in high winds in June has filed a lawsuit against the site’s owner and two contractors.

Lee Trickey filed state Supreme Court action Monday at the Jefferson County Clerk’s office against Black River Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning Inc., Wilcox Gravel and Excavating Inc., and Vaadi Construction.

Mr. Trickey was working June 24 on the construction of a large pole barn at Black River Plumbing, 24692 County Route 50, when the trusses gave way, causing Mr. Trickey to fall from a height, with falling trusses then landing on him, according to the suit. He suffered a broken femur, pelvis, sternum and hip, as well as other injuries.

It is alleged that the trusses had been improperly hoisted and secured by employees of the contractors, resulting in Mr. Trickey’s injuries, and that the property owner failed to provide him with a reasonably safe place to work.

The suit does not specify an amount sought in damages. Mr. Trickey is represented by Syracuse attorney Donald S. DiBenedetto.”

As a property owner hiring professional (we hope), insured (again hopefully) and safety conscious (we really hope) building contractors – one would like to believe they have insulated themselves from potential legal action should things go awry. In this case a property owner is being named in a lawsuit for failing to provide a reasonably safe place to work, even though trusses were being placed during a high wind event!

Construction is an industry fraught with potential hazards, even when hiring experienced contractors. My own Father perished in a construction fall in 1988, even with over four decades of actually swinging a hammer, so it does sadly happen.

How to avoid situations such as these?

If hiring a contractor to perform any sort of work on your property thoroughly vet them (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2018/04/vetting-building-contractor/). Item number three in this article on insurance is particularly critical – especially in dealing with worker’s compensation (industrial) insurance.

Yes, you are going to pay more up front for a licensed and insured builder, and it will seem like a bargain later on, if you are named in a lawsuit such as our property owner above.

Discuss with your own insurance agent what sort of coverage you have – depending upon your individual circumstances, it may be prudent to add to your policy, just in case.

This entry was posted in Building Contractor, Pole Building Siding, Trusses, Constructing a Pole Building and tagged , , , , , on by .

DIY Post Frame Construction and Winch Boxes

Loyal reader and Hansen Pole Buildings’ client BOB in MOSINEE writes:

“Hello Mike,

This weekend I’m going to begin construction on my Hansen pole building. Very excited. You guys have been great to work with.

I had originally planned to have one built by one of the bigger named companies, but after seeing what they were quoting, I realized I could do this.

My question is around the use of hand winches to raise trusses or assembled truss / purlin sections. I really like the idea of building a section on the ground, from a safety aspect, then raising and attaching.

I read your blog post on the use of these and also did some digging online. As you stated, the amount of specific information is very limited.

Based on your past experience, have you heard of anyone mounting winches directly to a post using heavy screws / bolts (without any steel) box structure, or is that not a sufficient surface to attach to? I’ve got 30′ spans to lift, so maybe that would be pushing it?

Looking forward to your opinion!

Thanks.”

Thank you for reaching out to me and for your kind words. I wish more people would realize they are capable of erecting their own beautiful post frame buildings. They would not only save rfa lot of money, but they would also gain satisfaction from having buildings assembled better than what they would pay most builders to do.

Why? 

Because you will actually look at plans and follow instructions. When it comes down to it, your prerequisites are only you being physically capable and able to read and follow instructions in English!

I am all for building sections on terra firma and raising them up with winch boxes. I have done it more than once, with trusses spanning up to 80 feet.  Although probably not involving any new world order conspiracy, you are correct in this being a well-kept secret. While I have not personally tried mounting winches directly to columns without boxes, I know builders who have merely mounted a pulley wheel to column tops and then affixed winches directly to column faces and ground level with duplex nails, so your idea is not far-fetched. Each bay of your building weighs under 2000 pounds total (or less than 500 pounds per column) so it could be as simple as using say four or so of your five inch long Simpson screws for attachment as they will support over 250 pounds each and this would give a high degree of safety.

Now you have my opinion, I will be looking forward to your photos!

For extended reading on winch boxes: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/10/winch-boxes-a-post-frame-miracle/

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Structure, Building Contractor, Trusses, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Planning and tagged , , , on by .

Final Inspection, Framing Lumber, and Trusses

This Friday’s blog include some extra Pole Barn Guru reader’s questions about a final inspection, materials needs for a building, and the quantity of trusses for another.

Pole Building ShopDEAR POLE BARN GURU: In a pole barn the inspector will not pass final inspection with a crushed concrete floor for storage of any kind of vehicle inside without a signed affidavit of no-storage of vehicles inside.

Basically no solid concrete floor, no storage of vehicles inside. Is this correct for Michigan? DAN in WILLIAMSTON

DEAR DAN: Many jurisdictions all across America have enacted similar ordinances, most often in an effort to prevent petroleum based chemicals from potentially seeping into underground natural drinking water supplies and tainting them. When you do pour your concrete slab on grade, make sure to place a well-sealed vapor barrier underneath to prevent moisture from passing through. While Building Code minimum requirement is 6mil, we recommend 15mil to avoid punctures during placement of concrete.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Trying to figure out how many 2×4’s, 2×6’s and 2×10’s we will need for our 40x56x12 pole building with a 10×56 lean to attached. How do I figure board footage or how many of each I will need? RACHEL in LEONARD

Engineer sealed pole barnDEAR RACHEL: Your question leads me to believe you do not have structural plans for your building. Said structural plans should be prepared by a Registered Design Professional (RDP – architect or engineer) who can expertly determine structural adequacy of all building components, as well as proper connections.

There is an easy fix to your situation – order a fully engineered post frame building kit, custom designed to meet your every want and need. With a www.HansenPoleBuildings.com building, you will receive full sized (24″ x 36″) blueprints detailing every member and every connection. You will have an itemized material takeoff list to work from, a 500 page fully illustrated Construction Manual to guide you step-by-step through assembly and unlimited free Technical Support from people who have actually built post frame buildings.

A new post frame building is a major investment, please avoid making costly errors in an effort to save money. You get only a single chance to do it right or wrong – right is so much easier and more rewarding.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: How many 2×4 trusses do I need for a 20ft x 30ft roof with only steel ruffing. DOUGLAS in PINCONNING

DEAR DOUGLAS: Your trusses should be shown on your building’s engineer sealed plans. You can provide these to any prefabricated wood roof truss manufacturer (or the ProDesk at your nearby The Home Depot) to get a quote delivered to your building site. If it was my own personal building, it would have a single truss on each endwall, and a double truss every 10 feet bearing directly upon wall columns. I would place 2x purlins on edge between truss top chords, using engineered steel joist hangers to support each end.

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Trusses, Concrete, Professional Engineer, Lumber, Pole Barn Questions, Roofing Materials, Pole Barn Planning and tagged , , , , , on by .

Why You Should Install Post Frame Roofing Before the Walls

Over roughly 40 years of post frame construction, I have seen photos of one or two (or perhaps thousands) of post frame buildings under construction. I can pretty well tell from these photos if those doing assembly are (or were) stick builders.

I grew up as a framing contractor’s son (and later working for dad and my uncles stick framing), where we built walls with sheeting (and often siding) on them and tipped them up into place. This is all fine and dandy for ‘conventional’ stick frame construction, however not necessarily easiest or best when it comes to post frame.

In post frame construction, trusses extend from column outside to column outside (plus any overhangs). If walls have been framed (girts, headers and door jambs placed) trusses will have to be jockeyed around to be lifted in place from inside the building. This is especially true in applications with bookshelf (inset) style wall girts.

Most post frame buildings have one or more columns out of perfect placement along building length. Accept it, this is just going to happen no matter how perfect you or your builder might be. Most buildings have a far greater roof purlin quantity per bay, than wall girts per bay. By framing the roof first, all purlins (assuming they are inset) can be cut to the same length in each bay, this is determined by engineered plan column spacing, less truss assembly thickness. When trusses are in place, column tops will easily move forward or backwards so all truss supporting columns end up spaced per plans. This also aids in an overall building roof length creation matching expectations.

During the truss placement process (regardless of method used) there will come times when it is highly convenient to be able to walk ‘through’ a wall. Girts in place means having to fit through girts or walk around – either of which slowing construction processes.

It is far easier to square up the roof without wall framing member resistance. Once roof sheathing or roof steel is in place, it makes it simpler to plumb building corners.

With roofing in place and walls open, a concrete slab may be installed if desired. This helps protect concrete pour from weather elements, especially heat in summer or rain. Pre-mix trucks can access and chute through any accsessible sides or ends. This can eliminate the need to pay for a pump truck.

Want your new post frame building as perfect as possible and completed quickest? Then roof first, walls after is most probably your route to success.

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A Shouse, Eliminating Condensation, and Building Trusses

This week the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about the design of a shouse (shop house), a resolutions for condensation, and building trusses.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hi – We are looking into pole barn buildings however we’re clueless on where to start and how big we actually need it to be. My husband has an HVAC business so we would need the garage/shop to be big enough for at least 3 bays plus a small shop and storage. 4 Bedrooms and at least 3 baths, ideally we’d like to have an open floor plan below and the bedrooms be in a loft type. What would you recommend?

Thank you! STEPHANIE in BELLE VERNON

DEAR STEPHANIE: Thank you for reaching out to me. In order for you to end up with an ideal dream solution, it will take some homework:

Plan tips – consider these factors:

Direction of access (you don’t want to have to drive around your house to get to garage doors)

‘Curb appeal’ – what will people see as they drive up?

Any views?

North-south alignment – place no or few windows on north wall, lots on south wall
Overhang on south wall to shade windows from mid-day summer sun If your AC bill is far greater than your heating bill, reverse this and omit or minimize north overhangs.

Slope of site

Work from inside out – do not try to fit what you need within a pre-ordained box just because someone said using a “standard” size might be cheaper. Differences in dimensions from “standard” are pennies per square foot, not dollars.

Use links in this article to assist with determining needed spaces, sizes and how to get expertly crafted floor plans and elevation drawings https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/10/show-me-your-barndominium-plans-please/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hi, I had seen a post mentioning your Gable vents. I have a pole barn with 12″ lapped steel siding and would like to install Gable vents on the ends to help with condensation.  Barn is 40×60. MIKE in MINNEAPOLIS

 


DEAR MIKE: If you have a steel roof with nothing on underside to create a thermal break, and are getting condensation you should have two inches of closed cell spray foam applied to it.

For a 40×60 building you would need to have eight square feet total of net free ventilation with at least half of it located in top half of your attic. This amounts to 576 square inches of net free ventilation area in each endwall. Please contact Materials@HansenPoleBuildings.com to request a price quote, provided steel ribs are no greater than 3/4″ tall (they will need this information on net free area and your zip code).

 

Ceiling Loaded TrussesDEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have posts for a pole barn set 15 of how should I build truss for this set up? DANIEL in SNYDER

 

DEAR DANIEL: You should contact your nearby prefabricated wood truss manufacturer and order from them. Do not attempt to build them on your own.

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Trusses, Ventilation, Building Interior, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Homes, Insulation, Shouse, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design and tagged , , , , on by .

Where Your Barndominium Dollars Go

Where Your Barndominium Dollars Go

Recently published by NAHB (National Association of Home Builders) was their 2019 Cost of Construction Survey. I will work from their ‘average numbers’ to breakdown costs so you can get a feel for where your barndominium, shouse or post frame home dollars go.

Please use this as a reference only, as chances are your barndominium, shouse or post frame home will be anything but average!

2019’s average home had 2594 square feet of finished space and a sales price of $485,128. Without lot costs, general contractor’s overhead and profit actual construction costs were $296,652 ($114 per square foot).

Construction Cost Breakdowns as Follows:

Site Work

Building Permit Fees                                                                                  $5,086

Impact Fees                                                                                                   3,865
Water & Sewer Fees                                                                                     4,319

Architecture, Engineering                                                                           4,335

Other                                                                                                                 719

                       Foundation

Excavation, Foundation, Concrete, Retaining walls and Backfill        $33,511

Other                                                                                                                1,338

                     Framing

Framing (including roof)                                                                            $40,612

Trusses (if not included above)                                                                     6,276

Sheathing (if not included above)                                                                 3,216

General Metal, Steel                                                                                           954

Other                                                                                                                     530

                       Exterior Finishes   

Exterior Wall Finish                                                                                   $19,319

Roofing                                                                                                          9,954

Windows and Doors (including garage door)                                       11,747

Other                                                                                                                671

                       Major Systems Rough-Ins       

Plumbing (except fixtures)                                                                        $14,745

Electrical (except fixtures)                                                                           13,798

HVAC                                                                                                               14,111    

Other                                                                                                                 1,013

                       Interior Finishes       

Insulation                                                                                                  $ 5,184

Drywall                                                                                                        10,634

Interior Trims, Doors and Mirrors                                                           10,605

Painting                                                                                                         8,254

Lighting                                                                                                         3,437

Cabinets, Countertops                                                                             13,540

Appliances                                                                                                    4,710

Plumbing Fixtures                                                                                       4,108

Fireplace                                                                                                       1,867

Other                                                                                                                923

                                              Final Steps

Landscaping                                                                                              $6,506

Outdoor Structures (deck, patio, porches)                                           3,547

Driveway                                                                                                     6,674

Clean Up                                                                                                     2,988

Other                                                                                                              402

Other                                                                                                      $11,156

Considering using post frame construction, rather than stick built and foundation costs will decrease by roughly $10,000 (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/10/buildings-why-not-stick-frame-construction/).

Architecture, Engineering, Framing and Exterior Finishes for this average home run an astonishing (to me) $97,614. If labor runs 60% of material costs, this would put a material package at $58,300! At over $20 per square foot, this would be one very, very nice post frame barndominium!

Looking to stretch your barndominium dollars? Considering Doing-It-Yourself, you absolutely can do it!

This entry was posted in Concrete, Insulation, Footings, Barndominium, Pole Building Comparisons, Roofing Materials, Budget, Pole Barn Planning, Professional Engineer, Steel Roofing & Siding, Pole Barn Homes, Building Contractor, Pole Building Siding, Trusses, Windows, Post Frame Home, Lumber and tagged , , , , , , , , , , on by .

Winch Boxes- A Post Frame Miracle

Winch Boxes – a Post Frame Miracle

Back in my M & W Building Supply days we had provided a pole barn kit package to a client in Woodburn, Oregon. One of Jim Betonte’s Farmland Structures post frame building crews was doing erection in our client’s back yard. Our office received a hostile phone call from this client about lunch time. He had come home to get a bite to eat and found his new building’s roof all framed up. 

And on the ground.

And he was less than happy…..okay he was pissed off.

He was furious because he did not want heavy equipment, like a crane, run across his yard to lift his roof up. Luckily we were able to talk him down and assured him when he came home from work his roof would be up in place and there would be no tire tracks.

True to our word, when he came home, his roof was up, there were no tire tracks and he wanted to know how we did it.

Jim’s crew refused to tell him!

Our office wouldn’t either!

We were having way too much fun at our client’s expense. He was pretty sure we had used a helicopter, he even asked his neighbors if they had heard anything unusual.

Nope.

In much of our country, post frame buildings are constructed with a truss or trusses aligned directly with building’s sidewall columns. Purlins (generally and hopefully) on edge span distances between trusses. 

I will share with you this miracle (in pictures) eventually. But first, a few words about my friend who has provided these photos.

Stay tuned to this station for our next exciting installment (and those promised photos).

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, About The Pole Barn Guru, Constructing a Pole Building, Trusses and tagged , , , on by .

Building Near Nashville, Engineered Plans, and Clear Spans

Today the PBG answers questions about building near Nashville, engineered plans for a possible client, and the possible clear span of trusses.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can we have this built near Nashville TN? CRAIG in SAN CLEMENTE

Nashville Tennessee on a map

 

DEAR CRAIG: We can provide a new Hansen Pole Building kit package anywhere in the United States.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello, We are interested in one of your barn plans for purchase. We will need engineered plans to submit to our local county development team for gaining approval and permits. Can we get the engineered plans first? TINA in SNOHOMISH

DEAR TINA: Thank you for your interest in a new Hansen Pole Building. You will need to complete a building department questionnaire which provides us the necessary load information we need to properly design your structure, with that we guarantee our third-party engineered plans will pass a structural approval. Usually your plans will be sent to you in seven to 10 days after you have electronically approved your documents.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: What is the greatest clear span available? KEITH in NEWARK

DEAR KEITH: In most geographic areas 80 foot, however there are some parts of the country where we can provide as wide as 100 feet.

 

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This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Trusses, Professional Engineer and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Plans, Scissor Trusses, a Possible New Building

This Monday’s Pole Barn Guru answers questions about plans for buildings, the flat portion of a scissor truss bottom chord, and a possible new building for a “local.”

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Wondering if you sell plans only. I already have a building designed and wonder what it would cost to make sure it is built correctly? Our area doesn’t require stamped drawings. Thanks LEE in RICHMOND HILL

building-plansDEAR LEE: We only provide building plans along with an investment into a Hansen Pole Buildings post frame building kit package. We firmly believe every post frame building should be structurally designed and plans sealed by a Registered Professional Engineer. Whether stamped drawings are required or not, if an engineer didn’t design it, who did? It is frankly just not worth risking your life or your valuable possessions in an attempt to save a few dollars.
You won’t be able to acquire needed components yourself for what we can deliver them to you – and we insure everything is provided, so you aren’t making needless trips to your local hardware store. You truly don’t want to become a piece-mealer: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2014/03/diy-pole-building/.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello, Trusses sitting on top of post. I have scissor trusses it looks like the trusses were made for a 6 x6 post I have 6 x10 post. The flat that is cut on the truss is only 6″ so only thing that touches the top of the post is the 6″, 4″ then would be unsupported. This cannot be right? KURT in SAINT HELENS

DEAR KURT: Most metal plate connected wood truss manufacturers fabricate their scissor trusses with a cut at bottom chord ends allowing for a level bearing point on top of either walls or notches cut into post frame building columns (see “H” in example).


Length of this cut is typically equal to minimum required bearing surface, with a minimum of 3-1/2 inches. What your trusses have is entirely within structural design parameters and will perform admirably and is “right”.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hi there.

We’d like to build in Hurley, WI. Can you deliver there and what, if any, service do you offer?

Looking to build a place to put a shop, park a 30 foot camper, a fishing boat and two trucks, plus some storage.  Would like a lean to either to side or wrap around.

Please advise as to whether it is reasonable for us to inquire with your company, given the distance.

Thank you! VICKIE in HURLEY

About Hansen BuildingsDEAR VICKIE: Considering it is only 375 miles from Browns Valley to Hurley, you are almost local! Hansen Pole Buildings provides post frame buildings in all 50 states (yes – even Alaska and Hawaii), so Wisconsin is not an issue.

A member of our team of Building Designers will work with you to arrive at a design solution best meeting with your needs, budget and available space. We provide third-party engineer sealed structural plans for your new building, along with all supporting calculations. You get a completely itemized Materials’ List, delivery to your site and a comprehensive step-by-step manual to guide you (or your builder, should you opt to use one) through assembly. If, for some obscure reason) you get stuck, or off track we provide unlimited free Technical Support via Email during your construction process.

Not only is it reasonable for you to inquire with us – you would be making a grave error should you not! Please give us a call (866)200-9657 and ask to speak with a Building Designer.

 

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Building Styles and Designs, Trusses and tagged , , , , , on by .

Maximizing Post Frame Gambrel Space

Maximizing Post Frame Gambrel Usable Space With Trusses

Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer Rachel and I recently had some discussions in regards to maximizing post frame gambrel truss useable space.  Most often gambrel roofs are supported by one piece clearspan gambrel trusses. Largest downside to this type of truss system is lack of bonus room width. Usually you can expect a room from 1/3 to ½ building width with smaller span trusses (generally 24-30 foot spans). Sort of like this:

My bride and I happen to live in a gambrel style barndominium (for more reading on barndominiums https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/04/the-rise-of-the-barndominium/). It is actually probably more appropriately a shouse (shop/house). We wanted just a lot more living space than what could be afforded by a bonus room in a gambrel truss.

This is what we did…..

Center width of our home is 48 feet. We clearspanned this using 48 foot long prefabricated wood floor trusses, placed 24 inches on center. These parallel chord trusses are close to four feet in depth. With our 16 foot high finished ceiling downstairs (it is a half-court basketball court), this made our second floor level 20 feet above grade. Ends of these trusses are supported by LVL (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2013/01/lvl/) beams notched into four ply 2×8 glu-laminated columns every 12 feet.

This got us across from column to column to support a floor, now we needed a roof system! We utilized trusses much like these, only much bigger:

Our trusses were so much larger, they had to be fabricated in two halves, split right down the center and field spliced to create a whole unit. We utilized the “Golden Ratio” (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/06/gambrel/) to create slopes and pitch break points. Our steep slope is 24/12 and our upper slope is 6/12/ On the inside, our slope is 12/12 and our flat ceiling ends up at 16 feet above floor!

We also ended up with a very, very tall building. Roof peak happens to be 44 feet above grade! Living at 20 feet above ground does afford some spectacular views – we look due south down Lake Traverse and can see the tops of tall structures in Browns Valley, our closest town six miles away.

In my next article, I will clue you in on things I would have done differently, so stay tuned!

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, Barndominium, About The Pole Barn Guru, Pole Buildings History, Trusses, Pole Barn Homes, Gambrel and tagged , , , , , , on by .

I am Designing a Pole Barn

I Am Designing a Pole Barn….

These words strike fear in my heart.

Reader ELISEO in FLOWERY BRANCH writes:

“ I’m designing a Pole Barn to be 30’W x 40’L x 12’H. I’m asking for 6 trusses to be placed 8’ on center with a 4:12 pitch. I’m gonna tie them together with 2×4 on edge 24” OC. My question to you is since I’ve been reading through some books and I haven’t had a definite answer. I’ve gotten companies quote a minimum of 11 Trusses and one company actually quoted me 6 trusses like I had originally planned. Do you believe that down here in GA 8’ OC trusses will be up to Code? They will be held on 6x6x12 PT also 8’ OC.”

Elisio’s first challenge is he is attempting to structurally design his own post frame building. Maybe you have seen car commercials on tv, where a vehicle is driven at high speeds on winding roads? Ever notice a disclaimer of, “Driver is a trained professional on a closed course”? It is because you and a vehicle MIGHT be able to perform together just like on tv, however chances are fair you will possibly be injured or even die should you attempt.

This very same adage holds true with those punting at their own building design….engage a trained professional. Or even better, a complete post frame building package structurally designed by a trained professional. And when I talk about “trained professional” in this context, I mean plans sealed by a Registered Design Professional (RDP – architect or engineer) specifically for your building on your property.

Now Elisio’s asking for six trusses to be placed eight foot on center is only partially correct – it would give him a conservative design for his end trusses as they only support four feet from endwall to next truss (plus any end overhang). He might end up having spent more money than necessary. His idea of using 2×4 on edge for roof purlins may or may not work, depending upon grade and species of material. Beyond what type of 2×4 is proposed, will be its ability to withstand wind loads, as wind loads will dictate in Georgia. This, and how to properly connect purlins to trusses, is just a portion of what a RDP will be examining and verifying for adequacy.

Will trusses spaced every eight feet be up to Code in Georgia (or anywhere else)? Read here to find out: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/06/pole-barn-truss-spacing/.

Please do not put yourself or your loved ones at risk, call 1(866)200-9657 and speak with a Hansen Pole Buildings Designer who can assist you in having a properly designed post frame (pole barn) building!

This entry was posted in Constructing a Pole Building, Pole Barn Planning, Trusses, Professional Engineer, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Converting a Pole Barn into a Home

I happen to live in a post-frame home. It was designed to be lived in from day one, so we did not face obstacles in having to convert a pole barn.

Reader DAN in SIDNEY writes:

“I have an existing pole barn that has no current foundation. It looks like 6×6 pt poles right into the ground. I am trying to convert the pole barn into a home and my first task on my list was a foundation. I was told required by code I need a frost protected shallow foundation. My question is what is the best way to add these footers with my poles already in the ground? Do I just pour around it or extend my pour outside the poles a few inches? Thank you for your time.”

Well DAN I will gladly assist with answers to your challenge, however first I might end up bursting your bubble.

Your building itself could very well pose some other challenges. Most often these come from walls not stiff enough (from a deflection standpoint) to prevent cracking of any gypsum wallboard surfaces. This is an area to be looked into by a RDP (Registered Design Professional – architect or engineer) you are going to hire (please nod your head yes).

 

Chances are excellent roof trusses in your building are not designed to support a ceiling load. If you do not have original sealed truss drawings for your building, you will need to contact whomever fabricated them. Every truss should have an ink stamp stating who manufactured them somewhere along their bottom chord.

Gambrel roof pole barnIn many cases it may be possible for an engineered truss repair to be made, to upgrade load carrying capacity of truss bottom chords to a minimum of five psf. I’m sorry to say, this is not free. Truss company’s engineer will need to put his or her license on the line in designing a “fix” for trusses designed for a load other than is now intended.  It’s not same as designing original trusses.  If you think about it, redesigning and augmenting something you have built, is always more time consuming (and brain challenging!) than first time around. His time and expertise are not without a charge.  It’s not usually “much”, like a couple hundred dollars.  Then there is cost of materials to do repairs. This will be final out-of-pocket expense if you are doing truss repairs yourself.  If not, a contractor’s charge must be added.  All totaled, it could run you anywhere from a couple hundred dollars to over a thousand or more.

Siding should probably be removed and reinstalled with a Weather Resistant Barrier underneath, or plan upon using a two inch or thicker flash coat of closed cell spray foam insulation against siding insides.  If a dead attic space has been created, attic area needs to be adequately ventilated to prevent condensation. You can find out more about adequate attic ventilation here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/08/ventilation-blows/.

Once you have decided to survive all of the above, let’s deal with your FPSF (Frost Protected Shallow Foundation). This article: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2019/02/minimizing-excavation-in-post-frame-buildings/ addresses an FPSF scenario for new post-frame construction. In your case you can follow along doing essentially the same thing, although your columns are already in ground.

Ultimately your conversions costs may exceed starting from scratch and erecting a new post frame building designed to be your home from start. If this is your case, please call and discuss with a Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer at (866)200-9657.

This entry was posted in Trusses, Ventilation, Footings, Pole Barn Homes, Post Frame Home, Insulation, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Structure and tagged , , , on by .

Fight Knee Braces

Long time readers (as well as most people with a lick of common sense) know knee braces are not a good thing. Besides taking up valuable interior space, they do more harm than good.

Reader TY from QUINTON has run into a dilemma regarding knee braces. He writes:

“I pulled a permit to self build a 34x48x16 pole barn. I left knee braces off the plans- after reading that knee braces force the posts outward under roof loading. The county added knee braces to my plan. Shall I simply add the knee braces or contest them?
Thanks – love reading your blog.”

Pole Barn Knee Braces

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:

Thank you for being an avid reader of my blog. It is appreciated. It appears one thing I preach over and over is – never build a building not designed by a RDP (Registered Design Professional – architect or engineer). Even if you have read every one of my blog articles and have invested in a copy of the NFBA (National Frame Building Association) Post Frame Design Manual (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/03/post-frame-building-3/) and designed according to it, you are going to miss something. Probably something crucial.

I looked in our database and you do not appear – this means you didn’t ever contact us for a price on your post frame building kit. Our kit would have included engineer sealed plans and full calculations so you wouldn’t be battling with your Building Department right now.

Reality is – knee braces are bad. Very bad. Read why here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/01/post-frame-construction-knee-braces/.

If you insist upon following your current path (do-it-yourself plans), then your Building Official has a right to add anything they want to your plans and you truly have no leg to stand upon. If they are going to force you into knee braces, then you had better be talking long and hard with your roof truss supplier to insure they are on board with these excess loads being forced into their trusses.

Or – you could do it right (and easy) way and dial (866)200-9657 and talk with a Hansen Pole Buildings’ Designer about your building. We can provide correct materials for your new post frame building at lower prices than you will ever be able to purchase them for – plus you will have engineer sealed plans and calculations enabling you to sail through permit processing.

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Lumber, Pole Barn Questions, Building Department and tagged , , , on by .

Where Oh Where Should My Purlins Go?

Where, Oh Where, Should My Purlins Go?

There are almost as many methods for assembly of a post frame building, as there are post frame buildings! I kid you not.

Amongst differences are how to space trusses – two, four, eight, 12 foot or numerous other possible centers. Along with different truss spacings are how to install roof purlins across or between trusses to support steel roofing.

Reader KELLY writes:

“So, I would like some info on purlins.  One builder has them laying flat on top of truss, one on edge on top of truss, and one on edge with hangers between trusses?  I have my thoughts but wonder what is technically better.

I like the hanger between trusses, for roof load,  but I wonder if you give up some of the diaphragm strength that is accomplished by purlins laying flat on the truss.  

To me, with a purlin that lays across multiple trusses, you get the benefit of added strength because you are tying multiple trusses together and the lateral stress is on the edge of the purlins.  When they are in hangers, the load stress in on the purlins edge, but the lateral stress allows the trusses to move independently.  

Trusses most likely on 8’s.  Purlins 24 spacing.”

Mike the Pole Barn Guru writes:

Purlins placed flat will not span eight feet, so eliminates this option. If you are planning upon going with edgewise purlins across a single truss, you are going to run into an uplift problem. Usually builders want to drive a 60d nail through purlins, into truss tops, however this connection doesn’t calculate out as being able to keep purlins from ripping off the building during severe weather. Most builders are not willing to spend time to install an engineered steel tie-down for purlins in this scenario. Over top also means purlins get staggered when they overlap. This precludes abilities to predrill roof steel. Predrilling gives nice straight screw lines and also eliminates possibilities of missing a purlin with a screw.

This leaves “in hangers” between trusses as your only viable (and practical) design solution.

Diaphragm stiffness of your roof will come from your building’s roof steel (and method of attaching steel to purlins), not how purlins are connected to trusses. Purlins tying multiple trusses together are not going to make your end resultant any stronger or stiffer.

Ultimately your RDP (Registered Design Professional – architect or engineer) who places his or her seal upon your building plans will be making a determination as to adequacy of any of these connections. If you are talking with a builder whose brilliant idea will be not building from engineered plans …run away from them as quickly as possible. This would be a risk not worth taking. If an engineer didn’t design your building…..then who did?

This entry was posted in Trusses, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Horse Barn Trusses, A Pole Barn Face lift, and Double Trusses

Today the Pole Barn Guru answers questions about custom trusses for a horse barn, a face lift for a pole barn and where to use double trusses.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hi,  I am looking to build a horse barn next spring, and had a question on the trusses that you offer. The barn will be on a 12×14 grid with a 14 foot aisle and 10 bays, giving it a width of 42 feet and length of 62 feet (the bays on one end will be 14 wide instead of 12 to make the two stalls on the end 14×14). I would like to use scissor trusses to make it more open and space them 12 feet apart. Instead of 2×6 lumber for the trusses, I would like to use 4×6, or even 6×6, to give it more of a timber look. Can you guys engineer and build trusses like that? Thanks. THOMAS in LOUDON

 

DEAR THOMAS: I will make a recommendation here to allow your aesthetic needs to be met, as well as giving you a horse barn with better interior air flow. Go to a pole and raftered design (read more here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/08/stall-barn/).

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a pole barn in need of face lift. Can a kit be designed for an existing pole barn? It is 58 by 25. JERRY in TROY

DEAR JERRY: Although outside of our core business, it could be possible – we’d need to have some direction as to how far you would like to take it.

Here would be our recommendations:

-Remove all roofing and siding as well as entry doors.


-Add 12″ enclosed overhangs (could be possible, depending upon current interior structure).


-New steel roofing and siding to include wainscot panels around lowest approximately 3′ of building.


-Install Weather Resistant Barrier between wall framing and siding.


-Replace entry doors with new insulated commercial steel doors with steel jambs.

It might be possible to leave steel roofing in place and overlay it to create overhangs, however more information would be needed before making this recommendation.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: If I were to use the double truss system would the gable end need to be doubled too? Or just interior ones? RANDALL in WRIGHT CITY

DEAR RANDALL: Typically each gable endwall would have just a single end truss. Some possible exceptions would be if you were designing to be able to extend building length in future, or for airplane hangars where there exists added strength requirement in order to support weight of a door.

 

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Horse Riding Arena and tagged , , , , on by .

Do I Need Any Additional Vapor Barrier?

Do I Need Any Additional Vapor Barrier?

Reader TOM in NEW LONDON writes:

“Have a 40 x 60 pole barn which I have poured a 20 X 60 6″ concrete floor with radiant heat. I have installed 1 1/2″ R 7.5 rigid pink board between the 2 X 6 side boards against the steel. I will be installing R 19 kraft faced insulation in the 2 x 6 side walls and R 38 kraft faced insulation in the ceiling. The area above the ceiling insulation is completely open to the roof.  Eaves soffit is vented. Do I need any additional vapor barrier? Have I done anything wrong?
Thank you.”

Some basic commentary, from your photo, to begin with. I obviously do not have the benefit of having your building’s engineered plans or sealed truss drawings to reference, so some of my commentary will be based upon best guesses.

I would sincerely doubt your building’s roof trusses have been designed to support loads induced into them from knee braces. Please read more in regards to this subject here: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/01/post-frame-construction-knee-braces/. Your first step should be to contact the truss manufacturer to verify ability of your building’s trusses to withstand loads from knee braces. With an assumption trusses were not so designed, second step will be to contact the engineer who designed your building to find out if your building will still be structurally sound with knee braces removed. If, by some chance, an engineer was not engaged to produce your building plans, a competent one should be retained to do an analysis of your situation.

Any lumber in contact with concrete needs to be pressure preservative treated – this would include plates between columns and bottom plate of your framed stud wall. You really do not want to have these boards decay within finished walls.

If you do not have a well-sealed vapor barrier beneath your concrete slab-on-grade, you need to use a good sealant over top of it.

Moving forward, to your question at hand. In order to install kraft faced batts along your building’s sidewalls, you will need to add additional framing. Most folks place another set of wall girts upon column insides. If so, in your case, then R 19 batts are not going to be adequate – as they will leave an air gap between batts and pink board. My recommendation would be to use BIBs (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2011/11/bibs/) in walls, with a vapor barrier to inside face of framing before adding the finished wall material. To get best thermal performance, a layer of closed cell foam insulation board can be glued to wall framing inside, then glue gypsum wallboard (sheetrock) or your choice of other products to insulation boards. This inner layer of foam board, if joints are sealed, will act as your vapor barrier. Have your building engineer confirm your building walls will be stiff enough to keep drywall joints from cracking.

Now – roof system. Before adding a ceiling, verify your building’s roof trusses will support this added weight. Most post frame building trusses will not! Trusses should have a minimum bottom chord dead load of five psf (pounds per square foot) to support framing and drywall. Your building does not have a vapor barrier between roof purlins and roof steel. Only cure for this now will be to have two or more inches of closed cell foam insulation sprayed to the underside. If you fail to do this, you will have moisture/condensation issues in your attic. You also do not want to have a vapor barrier in your ceiling line – so kraft faced batts are out. I’d recommend 15-20 inches of blown in fiberglass insulation. Make sure to not block air intake from soffits. If your ridge cap isn’t currently vented, it needs to be.

 

Tom could have avoided a great deal of pain and expense had he and his building provider been communicating in regards to climate controlling this structure. Unfortunately, most post frame building kit suppliers and contractors are focused only upon providing a low price, instead of best design solution for their clients.

 

 

This entry was posted in Insulation, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses, Ventilation and tagged , , , , , , , on by .

“Rafter”Spacing, Old Posts, and Electrical Wiring Solutions

Today the Pole Barn Guru answers questions about “rafter” spacing, how to best dispose of old posts, and where to run electrical wiring.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can I place rafters 48” apart on 24 x 40 pole barn with steel roof? DAVE in BAY CITY

DEAR DAVE: I will interpret your “rafters” to be Midwestern casual term for roof trusses. If so and properly designed to support required loads, trusses could be placed every four feet. In order to support roof steel, purlins would need to be laid either across top of, or joist hung in between roof truss top chords.

You should consult with an RDP (Registered Design Professional – architect or engineer) who will be providing plans for your building for determination of required loads, purlin spacing and size.

 

Ask The Pole Barn GuruDEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a telephone post fence that I no longer want. How to I dispose of it? It is big and heavy. MINETTE in LUCAS

DEAR MINETTE: Whether large or small challenges, or a question doesn’t even pertain to post frame buildings, I do my best to answer them all and give best possible advice.

I’d start with trying to give it away using Craigslist and/or Facebook – you just might find a taker!

 

DEAR JUSTINE: (Ha ha! Fooled you as reader JAMES questioned Hansen Pole Buildings’ wizardress of all things materials – Justine, who forwarded it to me):

I have a construction question… I need to run wiring in the walls of the pole barn, and I wanted to be sure that drilling through the poles wouldn’t be a problem. I can either run all the wires up into the ‘attic’, then down where they are needed, which wouldn’t require boring holes through the poles, but would use a lot more wire, or I can run horizontally, and bore holes through the poles.

What is the recommended way? Are there limits to how many/large the holes can be?

Thanks. JAMES in LEBANON

DEAR JAMES: An article has been written specifically to address your question: http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2013/08/electrical-holes/

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Building How To Guides, Trusses and tagged , , , , on by .

Building Your Own Gambrel Barn Wood Roof Trusses

Gambrel style rooflines are often enticing, they offer the feeling (however not the reality) of getting added space for free. Building your own gambrel barn trusses might appear on the surface like a way to make this even a greater savings.

This was prompted by an inquiry from reader DON in WAYNE. Don writes:

“I am building a 24 ft. wide x 40 ft. length barn. I am going to build a gambrel truss with 2×8 and with 4 ft. wide gussets. How far apart should I space them using purlins and should I use 2×4 or 2×6 purlins. I was thinking of going 4’ wide with the trusses and using 2×4 spaced 2 ft. wide for the purlins.”

Mistake number one is even considering building your own trusses, on site, unless you are constructing them from drawings designed and sealed by a Registered Design Professional (RDP – licensed architect or engineer). Chances are way too good (100% guaranteed) you are dooming your building (and possibly its occupants) to failure. In all seriousness, prefabricated steel connector plated wood trusses are the only way to go – you will save money in the long run and you will be able to sleep soundly at night.

Your second mistake is in trying to be your own building engineer. If it was my own building (depending upon the design wind and snow loads), I would probably be using a single truss on each endwall and double (two ply) trusses every ten feet, bearing directly upon the columns. In my humble opinion this will give you the safest end resultant as the trusses can be notched into the columns and not possibly slide down the columns (or have a questionable connection to a header or truss carrier). You can then utilize 2×6 (or 2×8 depending upon loads) roof purlins on edge to support the roofing.

Your idea of using 2×4 (I am guessing flat over the tops of the trusses) every two feet and spanning four feet will not work unless you have the availability of lumber graded higher than the Standard and Construction material from your local lumber yard.

To avoid making crucial mistakes, which could waste your hard earned money, I would recommend you invest in a fully engineered post frame building kit package.

 

 

This entry was posted in Gambrel, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Trusses and tagged , , , , on by .

A Stone Base Floor? Trusses vs Rafters, and Entry Door Install

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a 40 x 24 pole barn with a 4 inch stone base floor. Can I place 2×4 grid framing 24 in on center with 3/4 inch T&G 4 x 8 sheets for light weight shop usage? No vehicles. JEFF in SYCAMORE

DEAR JEFF: Some ifs – if your site is drained so as to not have excess moisture beneath the building, if the subgrade is thoroughly compacted and if you have a well-sealed vapor barrier underneath, then it might work. Be prepared for the possibility of frost heaving. Both the framing and the sheathing should be pressure preservative treated to a minimum UC-4B level to prevent possible deterioration.

 

craigslist pole barnDEAR POLE BARN GURU: You compare scissor trusses to conventional trusses, but I see nothing about using beams instead. I’m aware of only one post frame supplier that provides beam systems in lieu of trusses. Are there any down sides to using beams and avoiding trusses all together? RACHEL in ST. LOUIS

DEAR RACHEL: My only guess would be you mean rafters, not beams. Or it could be your intent is a ridge beam supporting rafters. In any case, the answer is going to come down to time, money and reliability. If an alternate system to prefabricated wood roof trusses is to be used, it should most certainly be a design which has been thoroughly reviewed and sealed by a Registered Professional Engineer. Obviously prefabricated wood roof trusses are most highly prevalent because they offer the advantages without the expense of time and labor.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can I install a 36″ steel entrance door before the exterior girts are applied? DONAVON in EAGLE GROVE

DEAR DONAVON: In most cases, the columns on one or both sides of the entry door are trimmed off above the door and supported by a wall girt which runs between two roof supporting columns. If your particular application has framing on both sides of the door which is attached to the roof system, then it would probably be possible to install the entry door prior to the wall girts. I am not seeing any apparent advantage to doing so and it would add to the possibility of inadvertent damage to the door.

 

This entry was posted in Trusses, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Structure, Pole Building Doors and tagged , , , , , on by .

“My Guy Says… Materials… Design…”

“My Guy Says….. Materials… Design…”

Title inspired by our Wizardress of all things materials – Justine!

I’ve now been in the post frame industry for nearly 38 years, the majority of them spent providing complete building kit packages, most often to do-it-yourselfers. Some new building owners happen to hire contractors to erect some or all of their building packages for them. It is from this last group where I get the infamous report of…..

“My Guy Says….”

This is actually construction short speak for, “We have really screwed something up here, not quite sure what it is, but it must be someone’s fault other than ours even though we have not truly looked at the engineered building plans, or bothered to open your Construction Manual”.

Here is an actual example.
The building in question happens to be 36 feet in width, and 28 feet deep. It has a single prefabricated metal connector plated wood roof truss on each endwall, and a double truss nine feet from each endwall. Roof purlins for the building are on edge joist hung to the top chords of the double trusses and running over the top of the end trusses in order to support a 12 inch endwall overhang.
Sound simple?
Please read on….

Client: “We have an issue with the purlin/joist hangers.  We appear to be 24 short of the LU-26, but we have 28 of the ESR2523 (H1) hangers.  My guys say the H1 hangers don’t work for mounting to the trusses. I’ve included a picture of the two hangers; the one with the square mounting plate is the H1.”

Hansen Pole Buildings Technical Support: “The purlins go OVER the end trusses and use the H-1 hanger there. Please refer to Detail 9/S-4 of plans.”

Client: “Yes, thanks. We did find that detail.  I went ahead and purchased the missing hangers at Menards.”

Tech Support: “Doing a manual count, we come up with 60 LU26 and 28 H-1 needed, which actually provides 2 extra LU26. If you were not short shipped, the concern is your guys may have done something which is going to cause future challenges. Other than at the double trusses, there should be no other LU26 used on the building.”

Client: “We found them… They were installed on the end trusses. OOPS”

This entry was posted in Trusses, Fasteners, Pole Barn Questions, Building Overhangs, Constructing a Pole Building and tagged , , , on by .

Fiberglass Panels, Accurate Info, and Truss Bracing!

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have four skylights with old fiberglass panels that are in need of being replaced. I doubt the design of the panel can be matched easily but am wondering if I send you a piece of it if it can be. I understand the way to go is with a polycarbonate, not fiberglass, panel. Thanks DAVE in BAY

DEAR DAVE: As you are finding out, skylights are problematic. Here is some extended reading on why: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/01/skylights/.

If indeed you determine the only solution is to replace fiberglass panels with polycarbonate (me, I would replace them with steel panels and be done with the future headache) I would recommend a visit to the ProDesk at your local The Home Depot® as they can order in most anything and it usually comes in freight free, which can prove to be a significant savings.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am buying a building immediately but your website is too intrusive to shop, so I will not be using you. I, like many others, do not like the setup for quotes because in most cases you turn into used car salesmen. BRAD in KNOXVILLE

DEAR BRAD: Thank you very much for your input. In order to be able to provide accurate pricing and design advice to our clients, we do need to gather some basic information. Things like where is your new post frame building to be constructed (so we get the correct climactic loading conditions), as well as how do we best reach you to discuss your proposed project. We get several hundred new inquiries each day, seven days a week, and frankly you are the first to voice an opinion as to our website being intrusive. If you have constructive solutions as to how we can best glean the information needed to be able to best provide our services, without coming across as being ‘intrusive’ we would welcome your input, as we always strive to improve.

Our Building Designers are highly trained professionals whose mission is to assist our clients in the quest for the ideal dream building which melds imagination, budget and available space. Post frame buildings are highly involved, engineered structures, which ideally require a fair amount of interaction between us and the client to arrive at the best design solution. We do not “sell” anything to anyone – we provide the assistance to our clients, as well as the education which enables our clients to invest in The Ultimate Post Frame Building Experience™, should they decide we are the best fit. Most of our clients have spent hours perusing the thousand plus pages of free information on our website and have decided they are going to own a new Hansen Pole Building long before they ever request a quote.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Question about my plans. On the drawings, my purlin spacing is noted as 31” OC. On the truss drawing, I see that it says the bracing for the top chord is 24” OC. Am I reading this correctly? 

It states: 

(Switched from sheeted: Spacing > 2-0-0).

and then below it talks about the Bottom Chord: Rigid ceiling directly applied or 6-9-13 oc bracing. What does that mean?

Thanks! DAN in QUAKERTOWN

DEAR DAN: Truss drawings are designed without any knowledge of how a particular building is constructed, or what the final bracing system for the entire structure is – the permanent bracing design is left to the engineer of record (see General Safety Notes #2).

You will note the top chord bracing says 2-0-0 purlins then says the maximum spacing is 4-7-0 (least of the three drawings). The 31″ spacing on the plans is far less than the 55″ maximum.

Bottom chord bracing is a function of a maximum L/d (length divided by depth) ratio of L/80 for members in tension (truss bottom chords are in tension as they are preventing the walls of the building from going out). The width of a single 2x member is 1.5″ X 80 = 120″ maximum for a single width 2x member. You will note on the endwalls of the building there is a 2×4 nailed to the face of the bottom chord of the truss. This now makes the member three inches in width so technically it could be braced once every 240″ (or 20 feet). The same goes for the interior double trusses, the three inch width member is good up to 20 feet without being braced laterally.

 

 

This entry was posted in Trusses, Pole Barn Design, Roofing Materials and tagged , , , , , , on by .

Roof Trusses? Contractor Reviews, and Insulation Installation!

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I would like to rip off my current roof of trusses that are made of 2x4s 2 feet on center with new one of mono-pitched trusses that are every 4-ft or less on center. The roofing material on top of the new trusses would be a SIP panel of some sort. The unfinished ceiling would be the bottom of the SIP panel. The house would have exposed trusses to create a loftier feel as the ceilings are currently too low. (house is 28 ft wide by 30 feet long)

Is this something that you can help with — the design & manufacture of the trusses/roof?

Thanks! NATHAN in KIRKLAND

DEAR NATHAN: Your Building Department is going to require engineer sealed plans in order to issue a building permit for your project. As such, your best bet is to hire a local engineer who is experienced in wood frame construction to provide your plans. They should come out to your house and do a thorough investigation into the adequacy of the structure to support the loads.

Some thoughts to consider – SIPs are going to prove to be very expensive. You could create a more spacious feel by constructing a knee wall on top of one of the existing walls, then use I joists or parallel chord trusses – either of which can be insulated between to give an adequate R value.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: How can I find independent customer reviews in Washington state for Pride in Construction. GINGER in TACOMA

DEAR GINGER: Getting independent customer reviews on any building contractor anywhere is a challenge, as most builders do not construct enough buildings to develop much of a track record either good or bad.

Here are the seven steps to not getting yourself burned by any contractor, follow these: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2013/07/contractor-6/ and require a performance bond and you will greatly limit your risk of not getting the finished product you expected. Here is Performance Bond information: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/07/contractor-bonding/.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I will be installing insulation under the steel roof. Are staple guns the best choice for temporary stabilization until the roof is added? What length staples? Which gauge staples? Narrow? Electric, air or grip staple gun? Recommendations? I will be using metal tape to join each roll of insulation side-by-side.

Trying not to re-invent the wheel, that’s why I went Hansen of course. RALPH in KENNEWICK

DEAR RALPH: From Chapter 14 of the Hansen Pole Buildings’ Installation Guide: Using a minimum 5/16” galvanized staple, staple through insulation to eave purlin top. As an alternative to staples, 1” galvanized roofing nails (with the big plastic washers) also work well.

These fasteners are only going to be needed long enough to get a sheet of steel on top of them, so there is no occasion to get fancy at this juncture. I’ve found a tack hammer to be more than adequate.

Keep in mind, the one edge of each roll of A1V insulation has a pull strip on it, with adhesive under the pull strip. This eliminates the need to use rolls of tape to adjoin each piece of insulation.

 

This entry was posted in Trusses, Professional Engineer, Insulation, Pole Barn Design, Building Department, Pole Barn Structure and tagged , , , , , , , , on by .

Builder Shaming

The Builder Knows More Than We do…. After Hansen 18k Plus Buildings

Very few things in life frighten me. Among them are heights (growing up in a family of framing contractors and having vertigo issues were not a good mix) and builders who tell me, “I can build anything”.

This last one usually sets off the alarm bells in my head which I interpret this to mean, “I won’t read your plans or follow your instructions, but when things go sideways – I will be blaming you for it”.

Now my lovely bride tells me I can be a bit harsh when it comes to writing about builders whose competency skills I may find to be ‘challenging’. I’ve written previously about the phenomena which a few of these folks are afflicted with (and I would encourage you, gentle reader to delve further into the subject by reading: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2015/01/dunning-kruger-effect/).

For your reading pleasure I will share with you, in its unedited glory, a recently received email from a builder:

“Building one now and plans for trusses were wrong. I explained to the guy that I knew exactly what needed to be done to fix it. He didn’t seem to be interested in what I thought. Mind you I have 14 years of full time framing experience (new construction) condos and custom homes.  Done a bunch of remodeling also worked on bridges for 4 years, framing also, bridge end post forming, radius walls framed and poured etc etc. I’ve been in the field for 21 years. Anyway blah blah. Guy from Hansen wants to have the drawing done and wants me to look at it and go by it. Haha. I already no what needs to done!  I’m in the field building the thing, I no the material list!  Now the material comes for the new facia and the new WRONG drawing of the soffit support, and 2 by 8, which we didn’t need but since they shorted us on 2by 4 we used. The WRONG drip edge piece came but we are using that also. He’s now going to eat the 5 1/2″ facia metal because of the WRONG drip edge piece sent, he has to buy bigger facia pieces. I guess what I’m trying to say, is that, if you had listened to the licensed builder that has framed miles and miles of buildings in the first place. I could’ve easily put a material list together, showed you the cost, ordered it locally and probably saved you money on the material, and us the headache of dealing with wrong stuff. By the way The soffit nailer doesn’t change from the original height in the drawing. It still tucks in exactly 3 1/2″ with the 18 degreee bevel. The only measurement that changes with the 2 by 8 truss is the 16’5. The only thing it changes is the size of the facia.”

Construction ManualFeel free to ponder this over your New Year’s Holiday weekend. Next Tuesday, I will dive into….the rest of the story!

Be safe, don’t party and drive, and I will catch you in 2017!

This entry was posted in Trusses, Professional Engineer, Building Department, Constructing a Pole Building, Building Contractor and tagged , , , on by .

Pole Barn Design for Free

Please Structurally Design My Pole Barn for Free

This is one of those POLE BARN GURU questions which results with a lengthy enough answer I feel I must devote a whole column to it.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Could you please help clarify, for a 40 ft. wide x 64 ft. long x 15 ft. high Pole Barn Building,

What size & kind of posts are needed?
How you would recommend connecting posts to trusses?
Footer depth & construction?
Lateral Wind bracing & Uplift measures?

Would greatly appreciate hearing your recommendations.  Thank you! EILEEN in CENTERBURG

DEAR EILEEN: What you are asking for is to have a building engineered, without knowing the parameters the building is being engineered for.

Without the knowledge of your wind loads (including exposure), snow and seismic loads, any answers I would give to you for your pole barn design would most likely be incorrect.

post-frame-construction-150x150Post frame buildings also work as a system, so individual components or connections might possibly be adequate, however the entire building fails due to a weak link. This is why I always, always (did I say always) recommend ONLY to invest in a building which is designed by a registered design professional (RDP – engineer or architect) – especially for your particular site.

Some general answers to your questions (answered as if I was going to build this building for myself):

Posts

I would use true glu-laminated columns (not nailed up columns), as they have a high strength to weight ratio, are lighter to work with and tend to be less prone to warp and twist.

Trusses

The post to truss connection would have double trusses set into a notch cut into the top of the column. This prevents the trusses from being able to “slide” down the column in the event of a high snow load. To avoid uplift challenges, the trusses can be bolted or a combination of threaded hardened nails and bolts could be used. In high uplift situations, appropriately sized Simpson HST brackets may prove to be the best design solution.

Footer

Footer depth and construction – the holes need to extend at least below the frost line, and I tend to use 40 inches as a minimum depth into undisturbed soil. The columns should be floated eight inches above the bottom of the hole then no less than a total depth of 16 inches of premix concrete poured into the hole. The diameter of the holes will depend upon the loads being placed upon them, as well as the assumed bearing strength of the soil at the site.

Do not attempt to use concrete “cookies” – https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/08/hurl-yourconcrete-cookies/ or bags of sackcrete – https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/11/concrete/
Siding

Provided there are not excessive door openings in endwalls, in most cases the utilization of the proper screw for attachment of steel to framing the steel skin should be able to adequately transfer the imposed loads:                                           (https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/08/this-is-a-test-steel-strength/

Bracing

Here is some reading on bracing which you might find helpful: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2016/03/diagonal-bracing/ and https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2012/01/post-frame-construction-knee-braces/

Good luck with your pole barn design.

Mike the Pole Barn Guru

This entry was posted in Professional Engineer, Lumber, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Barn Planning and tagged , , , , , on by .

Adding Steel Ceiling Liner Panels

I Want to Add a Steel Ceiling

This must be my week for receipt of good questions which require lengthy answers in order to do justice to the subject. Here is another one:

liner-steelDEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a 42 x 60 with insulation in walls and roof, 26 gauge metal, wood trusses, 10 feet o.c. with 2 x 6 purlins. I do furniture and cabinet work and love the insulation but would like to add the white metal ceiling, to help with the heating, cooling, and lighting. Can I add trusses in between existing ones, and build them underneath the purlins? If so can the white metal span 5 feet for a metal ceiling? CHARLES IN BUTLER

DEAR CHARLES: I would begin by examining the truss engineering – if the bottom chord of the trusses is designed for an adequate dead load (oftentimes this will appear as BCDL on the drawings) of five psf (pounds per square foot) or more, then the trusses are probably capable of handling the added weight of the ceiling plus applicable framing.

If the truss drawings are not available, look for the manufacturer’s stamp on the trusses, it should be on the bottom chord and will give the manufacturer’s name as well as the load the trusses were designed to support.

Not having to add more trusses will be the far most economical and practical design solution.

In the event the trusses are not designed to support the weight of the ceiling, I’d recommend asking the truss manufacturer for a “repair” to upgrade the trusses to be able to support the added weight. If you are unable to contact the manufacturer, a registered professional engineer who is competent in truss design and repair should be consulted to design an engineered repair for you.

Once the load carrying capacity has been determined to be adequate, ceiling joists can be placed at five foot on center between the trusses (using joist hangers), so the liner panels can be screwed directly to them.

Could you add another truss between each of the existing ones? Sure, but it is not probably going to prove to be an easy task as they will need to be maneuvered into place. The ends of each new truss are also going to have to be supported by a structural header placed between the sidewall columns and adequately attached to support the weight.  The design of these headers and their connections should also be done by an engineer.

If the purlins are joist hung between the existing trusses, the new trusses will have to be manufactured so as to afford you the ability to have the bottom chords of the trusses all at the same height. This may not be possible.

Steel ceiling liner panels should be able to span five feet, without significant deflection issues making them appear unsightly.

In addition, Here are some thoughts about the use of steel liner panels for ceilings: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2013/08/steel-liner-panels/

Good luck! And let me know how everything turned out for you!

This entry was posted in Steel Roofing & Siding, Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Design, Pole Building How To Guides and tagged , , , , on by .

Carport Attachment: Part II

We Don’t Always Do Things Perfect, But We Do Listen Part II

Last summer Hansen Pole Buildings Supplied a pole building kit package to a client who experienced a few challenges and took the time to address them.

Here is a portion of the email I was responding to:
“On the design flaws, and other issues, here is what I have experienced.

If you just joined in this blog – read yesterday’s blog for Part I in a 4 part series from a client who experienced some construction challenges…

“2-Carport attachment.

My plans have a 12 foot carport section on the front.  The engineering on this section is very confusing.  The plans state that the double truss system is supposed to be used but, the outside truss is supposed to lowered by roughly 6 inches to make room for the purlins to travel over the top of it.
With this system there is no double truss.  There is one truss that is supporting the load of two sections of roofing.  To further complicate the matter, the trusses that were engineered and supplied were constructed with 2 X 6’s.  What does this do, well, when I lowered the outside truss 6 inches there is absolutely NOTHING to attach that truss to the other truss.  A few spots of webbing is it.  This seems like a totally weak link in the system and I cannot figure out why this was done this way.
It seems to me that you would have run a normal double truss and then nailed a siding backer onto the outside truss for tin placement.  This dropped truss created other issues as well.
When placing the X bracing for the carport as well as the first bay in, the X is placed at 2 different locations on the bottom attachment.  On the carport section the X bracing is attached to the outside dropped truss, 6 inches below the other truss.  On first interior bay the X is attached to the upper truss.  The two braces are not pushing on each other.  And, I have no idea how I am going to place the tin on this section because I have a 2X4 10 inches above my garage door.  Am I supposed to cut around the 2X4 and try and figure out how to make it work?”

carportMy response: Actually in the hundreds of buildings we have provided with carports, you are quite honestly the first person who has ever brought forth any of these issues as being challenges. Your bringing this to our attention is greatly appreciated.

With Hansen Buildings knowing the carport to enclosed portion the trusses were not going to be at the same height (per the plans), the trusses for your building were ordered and designed to work with a single truss placed every six feet (the worst case scenario).

One truss does not support two sections of roofing, as the end of the purlins in the direction of the carport rests on top of the top chord of the lowered truss. Each truss at this juncture is supporting six feet of roof, just as it was designed to be.

Your recommendation of keeping both of these trusses at the same height and having a siding backing nailed to the face will be taken under serious advisement. The challenge will be, in many instances, the wall columns in this area are 4×6, oriented with the wide face against the wind. In those circumstances, it would be impossible to notch three inches into a 3-1/2” thick column. We are in the process of discussing with our engineers turning the corner and endwall columns 90 degrees to be able to notch in the two trusses, as you suggest. Because we do so many different applications, we need to see if this will cause other challenges.

The idea of the X braces is not to push against each other – it is to create a rigid brace frame which is restrained against buckling in both directions and transfers load into the roof diaphragm. There is no structural reason for them to be at the same height.

Install the steel siding on this wall first, then the X brace. A small slot can be created, using a punch, to slide the Simpson LSTA12 bracket through for attachment.

“3-Girt Spacing

The girt spacing is an interesting way to save a few hundred bucks, probably not mine.  The plans call for the girts to be about 40 inches on center.  I know this is not exact but close enough.  This is the absolute maximum allowed by the tin specs, I know because I called and spoke with the engineer.  Common practice is girts places 2 feet on center.  It does not take a rocket scientist to know that when those girts are placed in a funky location, like 40″ OC, you cannot hang insulation, drywall or anything else without a bunch of waste or owner supplied materials.  I chose to purchase my own 2X6’s to build the thing at 24″OC.  It cost me a whopping $250 for the lumber and a bunch of headache every place else.  I now need to order more screws because I do not have enough for attachment.  You would think that for $25,000 it could be done right without cutting corners.”

My response: There exists no “common practice” for the spacing of wall girts, other than what is needed to support the given load conditions.  Your building, with the loads imposed on it – came out to what we designed, 37-5/8″ spacing.

This is not about “cutting corners”, as with any structural member of a post frame building, the wall girts are located and spaced to carry the loads (in this case wind) being placed upon them, without added pieces being placed “just because”.

The information provided by you, in your request for your initial quote, indicated: “insulation_options: cold”, which precluded us from knowing your intention was to insulate the walls of your building. This is just one of the many reasons why we have each of our clients review and approve their building plans online prior to materials being ordered. At time of review you could have asked why the girts were spaced at 37-5/8” on the plans, or requested any spacing you desired, which would have gotten you not only the extra lumber, but also the screws. There is no indication in the notes in our records your intentions of insulating the building at a future date, or even of it having been discussed.

As for the spanning capabilities of the steel – your building’s steel roofing and siding is Imperial Rib® manufactured by American Building Components. In looking at the span tables for this product, for 29 gauge over three spans (crossing three or more framing members) and spanning 3.5 feet (42 inches), the allowable minimum loads in pounds per square foot (psf) are 54 for positive wind force and 53 for negative wind force. The formula to convert wind speed in mph (miles per hour) to force is Speed^2 X .00256 = psf, so force to speed is the square root of psf divided by .00256, or 143 miles per hour. AS the design load for your building is 100 mph, it doesn’t appear “This is the absolute maximum allowed by the tin specs”. I’d be happy to supply a copy of the chart, should you desire.

Tomorrow’s part III of a 4 part answer from Mike the Pole Barn Guru to a challenged client deals with ceiling loaded trusses. See you then

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Pole Building Trusses

Pole Building Roof System – Dressed Up!!

For years I sat in church on Sunday mornings with my children and admired the magnificent trusses which supported the roof. Built from glulams with the joints connected with bolted steel brackets – they were nothing short of fabulous. To me (coming from a background of construction and prefabricated roof truss manufacturing), I believe I had a special attraction to them more than just the average parishioner.

Truss-FramingAs pole buildings have gravitated from the farms of the 1950’s into the mainstream of popular construction, their owners have been looking for more appeal than what was offered by the average tractor shed.

The aesthetics of massive exposed trusses somehow is appealing to many of us. By using glulaminated timbers to fabricate them, the members have very few flaws and can be readily finished to highlight the natural beauty of the wood.

By using prefabricated metal plate connected wood scissors trusses, the structure of the roof surface can be readily supported. These trusses may have conventional “heels” (the point where the top and bottom chords meet) and an exterior slope which is greater than the interior slope. By use of a raised heel, the bottom chord slope can be increased to give a more dramatic look, as well as creating a deeper insulation cavity.

Ceiling finishes are then often tongue and groove two or three inch thick material. Depending upon the spacing of the trusses, often no other bottom chord framing is required for their support.

Non-load carrying glulam trusses can be placed directly below the decking to give the impressive look, without sacrificing any of the “pretty” parts of the truss – as this work is being done by the hidden trusses above the decking.

Whether office space, a church, great room or man cave – if you want to “knock the socks” off your guests or clients, this one offers some distinct possibilities

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Structure, Trusses and tagged , , , , on by .

Dear Guru: Can My Pole Barn Trusses Handle a Ceiling Load?

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a question regarding truss loads, specifically ceiling loads, for a pole barn.  I know you have touched on this before, but I was hoping for a little more detail.

I recently purchased a property that came with an existing pole barn, and other than a few material ratings I cannot find any data on the trusses (no manufacturer tags, etc).  The building is 32×48, and the trusses 4/12 pitch with 2×6 top cord, and 2×4 bottom cord and webbing, on 4′ centers.  I want to add a steel ceiling, plus insulation and lighting. By my math I am looking at a dead load of 2-3 lb/sq ft, including the weight of the bottom cord of the trusses.

I have done a lot of research on the subject, and it seems that it is common in pole buildings to have trusses spaced much wider than 4′ (8’+ seems common).  Is the tighter spacing a indication that these trusses should support a 2-3 lb/sq ft dead load for ceiling and insulation?  If you were specing trusses for my requirements, how would you design them?  If these trusses are not sufficient, what sort of reinforcement would be required?

One of the only bits of data I have been able to find is this page https://www.pole-barn.info/gable-roof-trusses.html, where toward the bottom it lists a 30′ span with the same lumber sizes as my trusses.  While it says “no ceiling” it also lists a bottom cord dead load of 5 lb/sq ft, which would be plenty for what I have planned. BAFFLED IN BOZEMAN

DEAR BAFFLED: The spacing of the roof trusses has no influence upon their load carrying capacity. In reality, trusses spaced 12 feet on center could easily have a greater ceiling load carrying capacity than ones placed even every two feet!

As a starting point, you should assume the trusses are NOT designed to support dead load weight of anything other than the trusses themselves, required bracing and minimal wiring and lighting.

The size and or grade of the truss chords as well as the webs and their quantity, and the size of the roof truss plates may not be adequate to carry the weight of the ceiling load. It’s not as easy as just knowing the size or spacing of each part, but rather it’s more of how all the parts function together in any configuration.  In other words, it’s a formula with many parts which change the final answer of “yes” or “no”.

The only safe way to make sure your new ceiling doesn’t end up on the floor with the rest of the roof following it, would be to hire an engineer to confirm the trusses are adequate to support the ceiling load, and to design a repair for them, if necessary.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: We are builders, putting up a Hansen Pole Building currently. It is large enough so the main clearspan building and attached shed had to be shown on two different pages of the blueprints. Anyhow, we made a mistake on setting the poles. Where we are looking at the 4 posts going across up by the “matchline”  we have the left sidewall posts set correctly but the 2 main building posts and the right side shed post are set incorrectly. We ran a string line but the workers ended up setting those 3 posts on the other side of the string line.

I am wondering if there is an easier solution than pulling out the posts. We have a lot of concrete in the holes and it would be hard to get them out. Could we fir out the left sidewall posts and go out and buy longer purlins? ERRANT

DEAR ERRANT: While this doesn’t happen often, you are not the only person to have this problem. In this particular case, you are constructing an engineer certified post frame building, which means any deviation from the plans is going to have to be approved by the engineer. This is going to mean time delays and the expense of paying the engineer.

Even if it was not an engineered building, using purlins for a span which is now 5-1/2 inches greater could overstress the purlins in bending. While 5-1/2 inches may not sound like much, in the design calculations for the purlins, the span is squared.

I’ve had to pull out concreted in columns before, and it isn’t fun. Best method I found was to use a backhoe or loader, wrap a chain around the column and lift it out. Fairly fresh concrete can be chipped away from the column and the process of setting the three columns can begin again.

I’m sorry I don’t have an easier solution, but you will be much happier with the outcome if you do reset the posts. And all in all, it may end up being far less expensive as well, in both time and materials.  As I said, I’ve done this myself, so I am right there with you.  The good news is, once you reset the posts, just knowing you have things all “in order” will make the project run smoothly from here on out

 

 

 

This entry was posted in Pole Barn Questions, Pole Barn Structure, Trusses and tagged , , , on by .

Permanent Truss Bracing

I have to give a lot of credit to Building Department plan checkers and field inspectors. They have to know a lot of stuff, about a myriad of different areas of construction. Even one who is an expert at what is written in the Building Code itself, would be only fluent in a small portion of what it takes to construct a Code conforming building, as the Building Codes now reference a litany of other publications and documents. Think of it as being similar to the IRS income tax code.

Puts it into perspective, doesn’t it?

truss bracingPrefabricated roof truss drawings (provided by the roof truss manufacturers) give the recommendation for how the truss designer feels the trusses should be braced, however the ultimate design of the truss bracing system, is the responsibility of the building designer (registered design professional – engineer or architect).

Recently one of our clients advised our office of the request, from their building inspector, for an email or letter from the engineer of record on their new Hansen post frame building. The request was in regards to the truss bracing system designed by the engineer superseding the bracing shown on the roof truss drawings.

Although the following may sound like it is in a foreign language, on the first page of the engineered building plans is a series of “General Notes”. Note 9 says:

“PER ANSI/TPI 1-2007 SECTION 2.3.2.3 TRUSS SUBMITTALS HAVE BEEN REVIEWED AND ARE FOUND TO BE IN GENERAL CONFORMANCE WITH THE DESIGN OF THE BUILDING. THE PERMANENT LATERAL BRACING HEREIN MEETS THE REQUIREMENTS OF ANSI/TPI 1-2007 SECTION 2.3.3.2”

ANSI/TPI 1-2007 pretty much lays out who does what and how. Here are some relevant excerpts:

2.3.2.5 Responsibility Exemptions.
The Registered Design Professional for the Building is responsible for items listed in 2.3.2, and is not responsible for the requirements of other parties specified outside of Section 2.3.2.

2.3.3.1 Method of Restraint.
The method of Permanent Individual Truss Member Restraint/Bracing and the method of anchoring or restraining to prevent lateral movement of all Truss members acting together as a system shall be accomplished by:

2.3.3.2 Method Specified by any Registered Design Professional.
The method of Permanent Individual Truss Member Restraint and Diagonal Bracing for the Truss Top Chord, Bottom Chord, and Web members shall be permitted to be specified by any Registered Design Professional.

On this particular project, general note 9 covered the permanent lateral truss bracing system and is sealed by the Engineer of Record. This makes the request for an Email or letter from the engineer to cover the same topic redundant, as well as an unneeded expense to the building owners (engineers do not just do work for free).

Potentially, the building inspector could decide to alter the truss bracing system designed by the Engineer of Record, however this opens up an entirely new can of worms. In making an alteration, the inspector could be in violation of the laws which govern engineers, as well as placing the jurisdiction in a liability situation should a failure occur.

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History of Pole Buildings Part I- back to the cave man!

While many old barns exist, it was not until the last century that pole barns developed, first as farm buildings. The following is excerpted from the National Frame Builder’s Association website:  www.nfba.org:

The post-frame industry has grown steadily in North America, gaining more and more widespread application in the past 100 years. Yet, many people still wonder, “What is post-frame construction?”

Post-frame buildings are structurally efficient buildings composed primarily of:  trusses, purlins, girts, bracing and sheathing. The primary element of the design incorporates square posts or wood columns, which are typically embedded in the ground or surface-mounted to a concrete or masonry foundation.

The post-frame building concept is not new. Many pre-historic peoples throughout the world used posts embedded in the ground to fashion sturdy structures for residences and other uses. For centuries, buildings along shorelines and in low-lying areas have been built on poles to elevate the structures above the guideline and/or water hazard. In rural areas, poles were used to erect sheds or temporary structures in 19th-century America. In all these cases, the limited life-span of poles in contact with the ground made them unsuitable for use longer than a few years, except in very dry areas or when rot-resistant strains of wood were used.

However, two significant technological developments in the twentieth century allowed the post-frame building to develop into a viable, long-lived structural system. First, pressure-treated materials that provided excellent durability, particularly poles that were initially developed for the electrical industry, became available for the construction of buildings. Secondly, large, lightweight metal sheeting was produced that could span supports spaced several feet apart. What remained was for builders to optimally use the advantageous features of these two materials in what is now known as the post-frame or laminated column building.

The availability of pressure-treated wood permitted the replacement of a continuous concrete foundation in conventional buildings with a vertical structural member that carried the live roof and dead building loads directly to the ground below the frost line.

The availability of lightweight, formed, metal roofing material permitted the use of spaced roof decking. The strength of the roofing materials resulted in a significant portion of the lateral building loads being transmitted to the end walls, to reduce the load on the supporting posts. The availability of trusses for a wide variety of spans further enhances and aides in the development of the post-frame building. Whereas trusses in conventional light-frame buildings are generally spaced 2-ft. or less on-center on stud walls, trusses became readily available that permitted truss spacing of anywhere from 4 to 12 ft. in post-frame construction. Each of these features contributed to the evolution of the modern post-frame building and its increasing popularity.

Stay tuned for tomorrow’s Blog- Part Two of The History of Pole Buildings.   You will find out who is really responsible for getting the pole barn design started, and why it was so important in the 1930’s.

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