Tag Archives: walk-out basement

Walk-Out Type Foundations, Clay Soil Issues, and a “Patio Room”

Today’s “Ask the Guru” blog answers reader questions about a pole barn being built on a “walk out type” foundation, use of a conventional pier foundation for high clay soils, and if we are able to please build a residential single story “patio room.”

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Can a pole barn be built on a walk out type foundation? CRAIG in MESICK

DEAR CRAIG: Most certainly, I built my own this way 30 years ago! For some extended reading please visit: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2020/02/barndominium-on-a-daylight-basement/

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I am about to break ground on very bad clay soil and to make matters worse it is on a moderate slope. Originally, I was going to go with a poured slab in a pole barn, but a couple of contractors have suggested I go with a conventional foundation on piers. My dirt-work guy seems to think it will actually cost less since he won’t be moving all that dirt. I will also have to do one of my porches as a deck rather than concrete. I am working on a squeaky tight budget too. What are your thoughts on this? TAMMY in MONTGOMERY

DEAR TAMMY: Obviously you know clay is about the worst thing you can possibly build on.

My own barndominium site was very similar, including a slope. We had all of the clay excavated out, down to frost line (not an issue where you are) and then brought in compactible fill to a level point, and poured a slab on grade. Expensive, but correct.

Working on a tight budget, we could engineer for your building to be over a crawl space, using either embedded columns, or columns set using concrete piers and wet set brackets. This would save the cost of pouring a conventional footing and foundation. This would also give you an advantage in being able to live on wood, rather than concrete.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: Hello. Are you able to please build a residential single story “patio room” of 13′ by 16′? Thinking of these requirements: Windows with full screens on all 3 sidesØ Insulated walls with drywall.Ø 1 Ceiling fanØ At least 4 15 Amp 125-Volt Duplex electrical outletsØ 1 door on the side that leads to a future deck. How does insulation, drywall and electricity work for something like this? Thank you. ERIC in OCONOMOWOC

DEAR ERIC: It can certainly be done. Walls will need to have at least some ‘solid’ areas in order to properly transfer wind shear loads. Needed amount would depend upon height of building. Walls should be bookshelf girted to create an insulation cavity (and a place to run electrical) without a need to add more framing in order to side and finish interior. Electrical would be no different than for any structural system and would need to tie back into your home’s main breaker box. Use an omnidirectional Water Resistant Barrier between siding and framing, Rockwool batt insulation to fill wall cavities, a well-sealed interior vapor barrier, then gypsum wallboard (drywall).

Implement Storage, Stumped for Answer, and a Walk-Out Basement

Today’s Ask the Guru answers reader questions about sue of beams for an implement storage building, a question stumps the Guru so he asks readers for help, and if a post frame building could be built with a walk-out basement.

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I want to build a Implement Storage 60’ x 24’ pole barn that has 10’ high sides and is open on in the front of the 60’ side. We would like to use 12’ spacing on the 6×6 posts. We were thinking of using 2×12’s for the beams on top for the trusses to bear on.. Can we just use all 12’ long beams or do we need to use 24’ beams to stagger the joints at the post? KERRY

DEAR KERRY: There are far more efficient ways than using beams between trusses. I would suggest – use glulaminated columns, they are going to be stronger, straighter, lighter and pressure preservative treated far better than 6×6 timbers. Place trusses directly aligned with sidewall columns (this will eliminate need for truss carriers – beams between columns). Use a single truss on each endwall, double trusses at interior columns. This method eliminates risky truss-to-beam-to-column connections and provides for a greater clear height when entering building on open sidewall.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: 4″ wall thimble for micro boiler to fit flush against exterior siding as the rib would prevent this from happening. The ribbing runs vertical on my building. Do you have options/idea for a workaround for this? DAVE in VIROQUA

DEAR DAVE: You have me stumped. While I do not have your answer, I will post this up on “Ask the Pole Barn Guru” and see if some of our tens of thousands of readers have a good recommendation.

 

DEAR POLE BARN GURU: I have a sloped property and house with a walk out basement. I need a shop and the land drops naturally. Instead of using fill dirt I’ve considered a walk out basement with a pole barn. I’d like to be able to drive cars over the basement. Is that possible? TINA in IDAHO CITY

DEAR TINA: This is absolutely possible. Where you are excavating into your hillside, we can provide a Permanent Wood Foundation, incorporating columns for upper level into it. Your upper level floor can either have interior columns, beams and joists, or (and my preference) engineered floor trusses. Although on stilts, rather than cut in, this post frame garage has an elevated floor: https://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/2022/11/what-to-do-when-the-old-post-frame-garage-has-issues/